Am I done blocking yet???!!! (with pics)

M

mrbelv2

Here is where i'm at. epoxy over bare metal, bodywork, more epoxy. Then I sprayed two coats quicksand (used one whole gal for two coats!). I blocked this with 180 dry using guide coat. The sand throughs and putty spots, as well as the trim holes I cleaned out, were hit with epoxy. Here is my question, am I ready for 2K primer or do I need to block more quicksand off? I read where you guys block off 90% of your poly primer. What's left is not that thick but i'm sure I have not blocked off 90%. quicksand 006.jpg

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Well first off, you SHOULD be breaking thru to filler and bare metal when your blocking.. If you dont, your not blocking enough in my opinion..

I always tell people, this gig is a feeling way..Meaning, if the panels are feeling good when you rub your hand down them other than small imperfections, I would not be afraid to begin my 2k sessions..

A word of caution.. Make sure to block your first round of 2k with 150-180 and block it down as you have this poly primer.. Then prime again and block with either the same grit if its still not dead on.. Once you get it all dead flat/straight, prime again and block with 320..

Any sealer you buy or create ( like epoxy reduced as your sealer ) will cover and fill those 320 scratches all day long

One last thing.. Block that puppy with dry paper all the way to the end in my personal opinion.. I think it shows imperfections much easier than when you are trying to do it wet.. I also think you get things much straighter that way too..

happy sanding ;)
 
Well, I sanded some more. I feel like it's real close now. I used very light pressure and changed paper often. Panels are very close to flat (I think). I'm going to spray two coats of 2K and try to block with 320.
 
I've been using the dry 3m stuff. Works great! It's the person behind the block that's the problem!
 
update

Looks like bondoking is right again! I'll be blocking with 180. Had some problems spraying the 2K. It didn't lay near as smooth as I had hoped.
 
Another plus of wet sanding: The wet surface tells all. Use the water and look at your surface like a mirror with straight-line objects around/behind you. Light fixtures, doors, anything big with straight lines. With the car in front of you and wet, look at the reflection of the door frame behind you. If the frame is distorted, you ain't done blocking. Move your focus slowly across each wet surface (focus on an object in the reflection and "move" it across your car by walking around it) - each ding or divot will show up as a distortion in this reflection. It works for me because I'm naturally anal about ANYTHING that should be a straight line but isn't. I've yet to see a house with straight/level electrical outlets in the walls...
 
i block wet, use a squeegee and blower, no way am i dealing with that dust anymore. plus when i'm done the car is clean.
 
Shine, what grits are we talking about wet blocking with? I still have plenty of 180 dry so that is my plan at this point. If I don't have anymore high spots, or low spots after this, I plan on more "custom sanding!!!" with 320 to remove the 180 scratches. Then epoxy as sealer sanded wet with 400-600. Sound good?
 
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