ALMOST inaccessible seam repair

M

MikeGee

Promoted Users
Greetings Gents... I'm doing bodywork on a 59 TR3 and am looking for advice on a seam that has sandwich rust and is hard to access. Location is right side rear fender well. A support rib is spot welded to the well from above, which is mostly encased by body. I had to repair and remove a double layer of flange (to which the fender bolts) and was able to get to some of that seam. I drilled the spot welds for part of it and was able to bend it up enough to clean out OK, not great.

So my request for advice comes down to two things:

1) My plan was to spray high zinc primer beneath the seam, then pinch and close it back up with plug welds. If I can't get the rust cleaned out perfect, will this be OK or should I take another approach?

2) Hard to see in the photo, but there is an inaccessible area up in that cavity. I can see surface rust all over it, but can't reach it with anything but a long paint brush and even then I'm sure there are areas I can't reach. If I spray epoxy primer up there is there any chance it will adhere well enough to make a difference?

Thanks, Mike (Newbie)

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I have used ChemCar sprayers with their wand attachment in the past to coat void spaces. It works good with paints like POR 15 and lanolin products like Fluid Film.

www.chemicar.com

Undercoating & Rustproofing Gun - Chemicar

Lightweight undercoating gun featuring an adjustable nozzle designed to spray undercoating and rustproofing to vehicles in a variety of textures.
www.chemicar.com www.chemicar.com
 
As a 'worst case' repair (HA - always better to replace ALL the metal, but, yes - sometimes the 'worst case' may be the only 'practical' method of repair), but as HO455 says, POR 15 (or the KBS alternatives) to encapsulate and halt the oxidation process ((I think that is what the makers claim it does) followed by some the good lanolin or cavity waxes may provide you with an acceptable result. CHEERS from AUSTRALIA.
 
I am not a fan of POOR15 as I call it.

Personally, I would use Phosphoric Acid as a rust converter in those impossible to reach places. You can try the paint brush or even put some in a spray bottle and squirt it up in there to get everything wet. Might take a couple of coats but when the rust is converted it will turn black. Be sure to protect your eyes and skin!

You can neutralize the acid by applying another coat, then before it dries squirt some soapy water over it to rinse the acid off. Then rinse it with clean water and blow off excess water with compressed air to get everything dry.

Neutralizing it will allow any Epoxy primer you can get up in there to adhere properly.

Non Professional disclaimer inserted here.
 
I wasn't trying to endorse any products other than the sprayer. The optional wands are flexible and come wth two styles of tips. The ones I use spray both out of the end of the wand and a 180 degrees outwards from the side of the wand. Prefect for coating void spaces and places that are unreachable with other methods outside of completely submerging the piece. There is a picture of the wands in the link.
 
We are not fond of POR-15 here. POR-15 doesn't stop anything really. It hides it for a while. Moisture cure urethane is porous to some degree. The 2nd thread below shows what happens over time with the stuff.

Why is POR-15 so frowned upon?

I've noticed a lot of posts that are very against POR-15 and I'm curious why. I figured it would be a decent paint for frames/suspension components. I tried to search but POR isn't long enough. I used it to coat the inside of a panel when I had it opened up for a patch. Is it for when people try...
www.spiuserforum.com

why you never use POR-15 EVER!!!!

I have been redoing a 30k mile 2000 Dodge Ram 4x4 deisel dually that was bought new. It is a work truck and is used to pull when needed. This is not a show job but is being done as a no holds barred job that hopefully will last longer then the factory and prove to be better then the crap POR-15...
www.spiuserforum.com
 
Last edited:
Chris_Hamilton said:
We are not fond of POR-15 here. POR-15 doesn't stop anything really. It hides it for a while. Moisture cure urethane is porous to some degree. The 2nd thread below shows what happens over time with the stuff.

Why is POR-15 so frowned upon?

I've noticed a lot of posts that are very against POR-15 and I'm curious why. I figured it would be a decent paint for frames/suspension components. I tried to search but POR isn't long enough. I used it to coat the inside of a panel when I had it opened up for a patch. Is it for when people try...
www.spiuserforum.com

why you never use POR-15 EVER!!!!

I have been redoing a 30k mile 2000 Dodge Ram 4x4 deisel dually that was bought new. It is a work truck and is used to pull when needed. This is not a show job but is being done as a no holds barred job that hopefully will last longer then the factory and prove to be better then the crap POR-15...
www.spiuserforum.com
Click to expand...


I hate por-15 myself, I will not stock it in my store, I will only special order it after I warm them of it, if they still order it's on them. I've only sold a few gallons over the years, usually to the guys that want to put it on a lawn mower deck / plow, or something to that nature.
 
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