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Alloy wheels and clear question

#21
FarmBoy said:
I'm starting to polish a wheel now in some free time and I'm learning a lot about scratch refinement - if that's the proper term. I started too coarse and wow are 36 grit ( with some aluminum chunks imbedded in the rollock) scratches hard to get back out. I was thinking it was needed to get machine marks from manufacturers out - which it did but...
Going to order some Cerakote MC 160 and experiment $110 + for 32oz.
Thanks for all the replys.
FarmBoy

"I ain't smart enough to be scared "
You can use alumalube spray or wd40 with silicone carbide paper if you want. 36 grit is way the hell too coarse for aluminum.

Two schools of thought for getting to a final polish with aluminum.Youcan keep working up in steps to about 3000 grit, definitely using at least water for lubricant & finish it with polishing compound. This is what people without real buffing equipment do.

I have 6 " buffing pads & compounds & can stop at even 400 grit, buff with brown rouge, then white, then blue or green. A fine liquid or paste may still add a hint more refinement to this.
 
#22
Sorry guys.
I never got far on this and after getting a flat on the intended car I tried a wheel and tire on it. It doesn’t even fit. The offset is not enough to clear the break hardware. What an idiot I am. I got one wheel close to finish but splat!
Now I need to sell the stripped wheels (2) and originals(2) along with tires. Since there is no money likely to be made I don’t see the need to finish the job. Only cost is the gallon of CeraKote and some time.

“I ain’t smart enough to be scared”