Rbm
Professional amateur
We all gotta go sometimeIF you are smoking in a paint booth you need more help than an air hose can provide.
AIR HOSE RECOMMENDATIONS
- Thread starter JC Daniel
- Start date
Bob Heine
Oldtimer
I like the Flexzilla brand and have both air and garden hoses. When the 3/8" red rubber hoses started cracking on the Harbor Freight reels I replaced them with 1/2" Flexzillas. The rubber hoses have thicker walls so I the 50-foot Flexzilla replacement fits just fine.
I put a triple plug on a short whip so I can attach three air tools at the same time and the whip can be moved to another hose when I'm working outside.
Just like the 50-foot Harbor Freight reel, the 3/8" red hose on the Costco reel was cracking and the 25-foot 1/2" Flexzilla hose fits. The green shower head on the pipe is my way of blowing the dust off me at the end of the day before I enter her ladyship's domain (dumps the air out of the liines as well)..
I put a triple plug on a short whip so I can attach three air tools at the same time and the whip can be moved to another hose when I'm working outside.
Just like the 50-foot Harbor Freight reel, the 3/8" red hose on the Costco reel was cracking and the 25-foot 1/2" Flexzilla hose fits. The green shower head on the pipe is my way of blowing the dust off me at the end of the day before I enter her ladyship's domain (dumps the air out of the liines as well)..
Haven't had one blow apart, but have had one leak at the connection. Buy one of the pro reusable ends to repair it. They are much better. https://www.amazon.com/Flexzilla-RP900250-FLX-REUSABLE-inches/dp/B007QV1F6E?th=1
Last edited:
anotheridiot
Member
problem with Flexzilla are the aluminum ends. They round so easily if you change plugs alot.
Bump to an old old thread. I recently replaced my 1/2" hose with a 3/8" and wow is that so much nicer to move around with. Both are flexzilla brand, but once that 1/2" is pressurized it isnt so "flexy".
Just another lesson learned....The one time in life that bigger isnt always better!
Just another lesson learned....The one time in life that bigger isnt always better!
jcclark
Oldtimer
Just be aware and adjust for the pressure drop going to a smaller hose.Bump to an old old thread. I recently replaced my 1/2" hose with a 3/8" and wow is that so much nicer to move around with. Both are flexzilla brand, but once that 1/2" is pressurized it isnt so "flexy".
Just another lesson learned....The one time in life that bigger isnt always better!
MJM
Promoted Users
That's probably my fault. Crashtech is trying to catch me with my pants down again.
'68 Coronet R/T
Oldtimer
I don't use a gauge at the gun while spraying but do have one that I put on the gun to adjust the PSI at the regulator.
I leave the air adjustment at the gun and on the detachable gauge full open. Then with the trigger pulled full open adjust the correct PSI at the gun using the wall regulator. I then remove the detachable gauge. Now I have them all written down, so I can quickly set the PSI at the regulator.
Generally the regulator is in 60-70 PSI range when my guns are spraying.
'68 Coronet R/T
Oldtimer
Yes, it took me a while to get used to doing it this way. What got me was the couple of times I had actually bumped the air regulator adjustment at the gun while spraying and didn't realize it until I saw what was happening on the panel. That and not being able to access tight spots due to the extended length of the gun with a regulator attached.
Now that I have been doing it this way, I like it much better.
I use 1/2" air hose now exclusively and make-up my own lengths from a bulk spool of red rubber Goodyear air hose. Went to 3/8 NPT fittings on the end and corresponding high flow Amflo quick connects. It helped my set-up a lot when I actually got a chance to use it! It is bulkier and heavier than I would like but my spray quality dramatically improved along with doing what is stated below using my choice of spray guns.
I flow tested my set-up with an anemometer and was surprised my piping system contributed to a 18% flow loss in cfm just using 20' of 1" copper and (14) 90's in it alone to aid in heat conduction and changing direction for moisture drop out. For people with a lot of traps, chillers, filters, piping with "U return bends" etc. that is a possible source of significant cfm reduction at the end of the paint hose for a given set regulator pressure off the receiver tank outlet. I used another regulator and globe valve to throttle flow at the wall and fine tune with about a 35' hose length
I found my "RP" gun works way better flowing close to 15cfm rather than 10.5 the manufacturer states and my hvlp's flowing 22-24 cfm is its sweet spot not 18. The choice of what hose to use at the end of it all really depends on the flow limitations of your piping system restrictions/length/appurtenances connected.
I encourage people to buy an anemometer and actually see what the air-flow rate is coming out the end of your paint hose for given regulator set pressures and that out the end of you gun. You might find your flow is indeed low. Your compressor pump cfm output is less important than the energy storage capacity of your tank and how it is withdrawn. Most people would benefit by adding in another 80 or 120 gallon tank in series for condensing out water and an added heat sink to cool things down. For 60 and 80 gallon receiver tanks rated for 175 psi and the compressor kicks in at 90 psi, the air spends very little time in the storage tank if you are pulling out 10-20cfm. You can buy a 120 gallon tank for less than some people spend on PPG paint materials for one car alone.
I design air receiver tanks and systems and build them under ASME accreditations for my employer. Usually they are 400, 600, 1500 and 3000 gallons vertical ones and, at one time, a desiccant tank of 80 gallons with storage of the pellets in the top of the tank. For many applications--no desiccant is needed--just the added 80 gallon "nurse tank" drops out what moisture does not condense in the large 400 gallon one off the compressor. Heavier in weight the tank--faster it happens as a heat sink. That surprised me for both hot and cold climates this has been mostly successful. Some of the pellet type desiccants are rather corrosive to steel piping materials and doing away with them is a cost savings for large users of such.
I flow tested my set-up with an anemometer and was surprised my piping system contributed to a 18% flow loss in cfm just using 20' of 1" copper and (14) 90's in it alone to aid in heat conduction and changing direction for moisture drop out. For people with a lot of traps, chillers, filters, piping with "U return bends" etc. that is a possible source of significant cfm reduction at the end of the paint hose for a given set regulator pressure off the receiver tank outlet. I used another regulator and globe valve to throttle flow at the wall and fine tune with about a 35' hose length
I found my "RP" gun works way better flowing close to 15cfm rather than 10.5 the manufacturer states and my hvlp's flowing 22-24 cfm is its sweet spot not 18. The choice of what hose to use at the end of it all really depends on the flow limitations of your piping system restrictions/length/appurtenances connected.
I encourage people to buy an anemometer and actually see what the air-flow rate is coming out the end of your paint hose for given regulator set pressures and that out the end of you gun. You might find your flow is indeed low. Your compressor pump cfm output is less important than the energy storage capacity of your tank and how it is withdrawn. Most people would benefit by adding in another 80 or 120 gallon tank in series for condensing out water and an added heat sink to cool things down. For 60 and 80 gallon receiver tanks rated for 175 psi and the compressor kicks in at 90 psi, the air spends very little time in the storage tank if you are pulling out 10-20cfm. You can buy a 120 gallon tank for less than some people spend on PPG paint materials for one car alone.
I design air receiver tanks and systems and build them under ASME accreditations for my employer. Usually they are 400, 600, 1500 and 3000 gallons vertical ones and, at one time, a desiccant tank of 80 gallons with storage of the pellets in the top of the tank. For many applications--no desiccant is needed--just the added 80 gallon "nurse tank" drops out what moisture does not condense in the large 400 gallon one off the compressor. Heavier in weight the tank--faster it happens as a heat sink. That surprised me for both hot and cold climates this has been mostly successful. Some of the pellet type desiccants are rather corrosive to steel piping materials and doing away with them is a cost savings for large users of such.
Any chance you can share model names or part numbers on the fittings? I have elected to go with 1/2" Flexilla hose and am curious about the fittings you mentioned.
Cheers,
Emil