Air filter set-up recommendations

[HIG]

This has been discussed but I was hoping I could have some input on my set-up. I currently have a Devilbiss 6hp 60 Gallon compressor that is plumbed thru 31’ of 1/2” black iron pipe to the other side of the garage. The compressor is connected to the pipe by the blue hose, from there it goes down 4’ to a “U” bend with a drain leg then back up to the ceiling. The Sharpe 880A (behind the compressor) is only used if I plug an air line into it and does not filter the air going to the other side of the garage. At the other side of the garage is a Sharpe F88, I just added the water drain (currently mocked up) and that’s what I currently have for painting (besides a disposable filter on the gun). BTW I checked on old post this morning and I saw an 8” rise is preferred after the drain so I changed that (not pictured).

I have painted one car so far and am preparing to paint my 72 Camaro next and then will be painting at least 2 or 3 cars after that (2 car for my boys and an old Jaguar for the wife). Most of the cars will be painted apart so I will not be doing an overall paintjob at once.

I did some sandblasting last week and the compressor ran straight for about ½ hour, I had water coming out of the blaster!! This has made me nervous about getting water in my paint jobs.

I was doing some reading I saw where an oil filter is good to have right on the compressor, I thought that one would not do anything being close but I guess that’s for moisture and not oil. I also see the Motor guard M60’s are recommended.

What should I be using and where? If anyone has any part numbers or brands that would be recommended that would be great, I see it’s hard to find ½” in and ½” out on filters. If it’s recommended to get a $500 3 stage set-up I could do that but if something else would fit the bill that would be great. I also plan on doing some form of an intercooler to cool the air before it enters the tank.

Thanks, Steve

 

[Barry]

Steve the back side of wall looks great the compressor side does not but I'm not sure where each pipe goes.
The NUMBER One problem call I get is water in line and even though you have those Sharpe filters that are way better quality then Harbor freight or home depot filters like most people buy for home, like you found out, you were shooting water after 30 minutes and to screw up a paint job, you don't need water, just vapor.

ONLY 100% cure is Desiccant or refrigerant cooler.

 

[HIG]

This is a sketch of what’s going on behind the air compressor.

I have a couple of specific questions:

1) I’ve realized that I’m using ¼” quick connect couplings and blue airline hose between my air compressor and ½” piping. Is this restriction going to cause me any problems? If so, what are some options to connect them?

2) Is a coalescing filter right at the compressor going to beneficial in trapping oil and not letting it into my air lines?

3) Should I be regulating my air pressure, the only time I do is on my spray gun, all other air tools are line pressure (140 psi)?


Barry, what would you recommend for my set-up the desiccant filter or a cooler? If I went with a desiccant set up would you recommend a 3 or 5 stage set-up or just the desiccant filter? Do you have experience with any particular brands/models?

I know a lot of guys use less but I am concerned about moisture. Back about 20 years ago I have a guy paint a pickup in his garage for me, it looked great until a couple of days later when I had all these tiny bumps all over the truck. We assumed it was moisture.

Thanks, Steve

 

[Bob Heine]

1) I’ve realized that I’m using ¼” quick connect couplings and blue airline hose between my air compressor and ½” piping. Is this restriction going to cause me any problems? If so, what are some options to connect them?

It definitely restricts the airflow if the rest of your system is 1/2-inch. The Milton S-1815 female coupler is 1/2" ID and is sold by Tooltopia, Northern Tool and quite a few other places. The female fitting sells for $10-15 and the corresponding male coupler is Milton S-1817 and sells for $3-5. Here's a size comparison:

Left to right - female 1/4", 3/8" 1/2"; male 1/2", 3/8" and 1/4".

 

[Barry]

I have a DAD500 at home and one of the systems at the plant but I hear, there are other like systems for half the price, like sharp, viscon air anything with desiccant is all you need with those two sharp filters running before it.
Somebody not long ago, said they got a system for 175 and it was a three stage like my DAD500 that cost me about $500.

 

[HIG]

It definitely restricts the airflow if the rest of your system is 1/2-inch. The Milton S-1815 female coupler is 1/2" ID and is sold by Tooltopia, Northern Tool and quite a few other places. The female fitting sells for $10-15 and the corresponding male coupler is Milton S-1817 and sells for $3-5. Here's a size comparison:

Left to right - female 1/4", 3/8" 1/2"; male 1/2", 3/8" and 1/4".

Thank you for the information on the different size couplings - I will look into them.

Steve

 

[HIG]

It definitely restricts the airflow if the rest of your system is 1/2-inch. The Milton S-1815 female coupler is 1/2" ID and is sold by Tooltopia, Northern Tool and quite a few other places. The female fitting sells for $10-15 and the corresponding male coupler is Milton S-1817 and sells for $3-5. Here's a size comparison:

Left to right - female 1/4", 3/8" 1/2"; male 1/2", 3/8" and 1/4".

I bought a set of 1/2" quick disconnects for the compressor side of the hose and plumbed the other side direct. I used 1/2" air line with barbed ends.

Thanks for the info!!

 

[HIG]

I ended up going with a Devibiss CamAir CT30 Dessicant system. Might be a little overkill but at least that's one less thing to worry about.

I left the Sharpe filter for general air tools and will use the CamAir system for painting and sandblasting (unless I notice moisture with my general air tools)

Thanks Barry for the guidance!!

 

[82firebird]

This is a great thread. I am getting ready to re-plum our building and reconfigure the air setup as well. I have been looking at the CT30 along with the Motorguard M60. We are hobbiests and would use the air lines for general air tools 70% of the time and painting the other 30% of the time. I have seen the CT30 triple system for around $500 which seems expensive but then I see the CT30 single and M60 together will run me over $200. I hate to "cheap-out" the air system, but if the triple system is the way to go, I will go that route. What do you think?

 

[HIG]

This is a great thread. I am getting ready to re-plum our building and reconfigure the air setup as well. I have been looking at the CT30 along with the Motorguard M60. We are hobbiests and would use the air lines for general air tools 70% of the time and painting the other 30% of the time. I have seen the CT30 triple system for around $500 which seems expensive but then I see the CT30 single and M60 together will run me over $200. I hate to "cheap-out" the air system, but if the triple system is the way to go, I will go that route. What do you think?

This is where I purchased my set-up:

http://www.nationaltoolwarehouse.com/CAMAIR-CT-Plus-5-Stage-Filtration-System-P133586.aspx

Here is the CT30 alone:

http://www.nationaltoolwarehouse.co...-Air-DryerFilter-System-Wall-Mount-P5642.aspx

I talked with Barry an he recommended as many filters before the desiccant filter as practicle, otherwise you would be changing the desiccant more often. I plumbed my filters where I have air couplings coming off my Sharpe filter or before the desiccant filters when I'm using standard air tools. I'll run it thru the CT30 for priming/painting or sandblasting. From my limited knowledge I would say if you have a desicccant filter you would not need the M60 (toilet paper filter) after it, it seems like it would be better to get more moisture out of the air system before it.

One thing I don't like about my system is both of my pre filters take replacable filters, is the standard for a water filter/coalescing filters.

If I'm misleading anyone please let me know!!

Steve

 

[82firebird]

Thanks Steve, that makes good sense. EDIT: I was looking at the QC3 as a stand-alone, NOT the CT30 alone, sorry for the confusion. For the price in the link that you posted (with free shipping) I think the CamAir CT30 Plus is the way to go. Right now we just have a simple water-separator for air tools and it is not getting the job done. I would like to upgrade that as well. Would the Devilbiss QC3 be similar to your Sharpe F88? It looks like the F88 can be had for about half the price. Thank you again!

 

[Joe's Notchback]

I have a Qc3 that is used for painting and sand blasting and has worked great for me, but just install an m60 in line after 15 ft of pipe from air compressor. Seems to work good. I am just a hobbyist doing my own paint and bodywork, but I do use the air tools to repair my equipment used in business.

 

[HIG]

Would the Devilbiss QC3 be similar to your Sharpe F88? It looks like the F88 can be had for about half the price. Thank you again!

I would say no they are not at all the same. The F88 is just a water separator, when I was using that it would let water thru if I was running the compressor continually and that was with 30' of 1/2" black iron pipe before it. The QC3 and CT30 are both Desiccant dryers that should remove all moisture if they are changed/maintained regularly.

 

[HIG]

The NUMBER One problem call I get is water in line and even though you have those Sharpe filters that are way better quality then Harbor freight or home depot filters like most people buy for home, like you found out, you were shooting water after 30 minutes and to screw up a paint job, you don't need water, just vapor.

ONLY 100% cure is Desiccant or refrigerant cooler.

I guess I liked the way Barry put it "ONLY 100% cure is Desiccant or refrigerant cooler", there are a lot of other ways to dry the air that work great for a lot of people - I just didn't want to take a chance. At the cost of materials it wouldn't take long to pay for a dryer if you did get moisture in a paint job.

 

[82firebird]

Thanks guys, I will go with the CT30 Plus for painting and the QC3 for general air tools. I will report back when I set it all up.

 

[HIG]

Thanks guys, I will go with the CT30 Plus for painting and the QC3 for general air tools. I will report back when I set it all up.

Both of those filters are desiccant style, it does not seem like that's needed for general air tools. The 2 filters that come with with the CT30 might be fine for air tools. Hopefully someones else will chime in with some guidance.

Steve

 

[Joe's Notchback]

Both of those filters are desiccant style, it does not seem like that's needed for general air tools. The 2 filters that come with with the CT30 might be fine for air tools. Hopefully someones else will chime in with some guidance.

Steve

I wouldn't use the QC3 for general air tools because the cost of the replacement cartridge are not cheap to keep replacing on a regular bases. If you have that much water in line then just use two of the water filters and keep them drained.

 

[crashtech]

I love my CT30, I actually have it mounted in the paint booth so it's only used for spraying. Since we have a refrigerated dryer on all the shop air, the cartridge in the CT30 only needs changed every couple years! What is great about it is it's also a fine particulate filter as well as a desiccant, so it gives a high confidence level that there is nothing in the air that could cause a problem.

 

[HIG]

I love my CT30, I actually have it mounted in the paint booth so it's only used for spraying. Since we have a refrigerated dryer on all the shop air, the cartridge in the CT30 only needs changed every couple years! What is great about it is it's also a fine particulate filter as well as a desiccant, so it gives a high confidence level that there is nothing in the air that could cause a problem.

Have you ever tried drying the filter in the oven when it gets full of moisture or is it not worth taking the chance?

 

[crashtech]

I just buy a new one, since it is also an air filter, it gets embedded with contaminants.