Air compressor woes

Dean Jenkins

Dean Jenkins

Promoted Users
Had an incident last night.

I have an Ingersoll Rand compressor, 5 HP, 60 gallon, twin cylinder, single stage. Had it about a year and it has been great for hobby level work.

My filter for painting is Arrow C7612XL 5 Stage Desiccant System. My piping is all PEX.

I've always left the compressor power on continuously, so I have pressure when I want it. Hasn't been an issue for 25 years . . .
Well, bad habit I guess :(
Won't be doing that anymore.

Last night the sight glass on the first stage of the Arrow system cracked spontaneously at some point, creating a significant air leak, and resulted in the compressor running continuously for several hours. I found it running this morning at 7:30 AM. I now know it was running at 2AM because a critter triggered my Blink camera and I could hear the compressor running on the video. At least 5 1/2 hours, maybe much more.

When I went to the shop this morning, it was filled with smoke. The electrical motor never overheated and tripped off. But the air pump, and oil, got very hot, too hot to touch, and was smoking.

Had to leave for church and couldn't look into it deeply, so just turned it all off. I got back several hours later. At that point, the compressor seems to work fine, amazingly.
Obviously, I'll change the oil before using it again.

Here is my concern (other than my shop might've burned down): Since the oil was hot enough to be smoking, did smoke/oil mist get pulled into the PEX piping and is the entire distribution/filter system contaminated and need to be replaced?
I drained the drop leg, right before the filters, into a clear container and looked carefully for any oil in the water. No sign of any, but I'm not sure that is conclusive.

Any thoughts welcome.

Here is the filter system overview:
air filter system.jpg


Cracked sight glass
cracked sight glass.jpg
 
I'd check the inside of your pump inlet filter for residue using a white prep towel or white tee shirt, same at the drop leg. If none found you're good to go. I would replace the pump inlet filter and clean the crankcase breather while you're changing the oil. Just my .02 worth

John
 
LITJOHN said:
I'd check the inside of your pump inlet filter for residue using a white prep towel or white tee shirt, same at the drop leg. If none found you're good to go. I would replace the pump inlet filter and clean the crankcase breather while you're changing the oil. Just my .02 worth

John
Click to expand...
Thanks. Will do.
 
Dean Jenkins said:
But the air pump, and oil, got very hot, too hot to touch, and was smoking.
Click to expand...
Something else....drain the reciever tank completely at the bottom / base and leave it cracked open for 15 sec's or so to flush it out the next time you cycle it. Also keep a close eye on you're tank / drop leg drainage for a few cycles to make sure the pump rings weren't damaged causing it to start sucking oil.
Again my .02 worth.

John
 
you know its a weird coincidence your posting this since just the other day after 16 years, the bowl on my filter in the booth got a crack also and started pissing air. not so much it makes the compressor run non stop but its really annoying and it will certainly get worse. the replacement showed up friday. its sitting in the shop and first thing i will be doing on monday morning.
 
You were not using any air during this. Why would you think any oil would have been sent through your lines?
 
Makes you think about it.
I leave the power on but my air system is cut off at the tank Outlet via ball valve. Unless you have air leakage with the compressor piping, switch, relief of itself,should have decent pressure to start with but my breaker box is not exactly 'easy access' and I'm too lazy to install a disconnect at the pump so it's hot 24/7.
They all leak 'some,somewhere and my tank supply line always has a slight oiliness on it but no really detectable leak. When I really run the piss out of it,it has slight haze smoke just from the heat generated and being inside the shop is noticeable but not what you likely had.
If it was 'hurt,you'd know it. You been listening to it for awhile and would automatically notice 'something is different' ex Soundman!!
Do a complete maintenance as earlier prescribed and either valve it At the tank or a lever type ele.disconnect at it or wherever is more convenient. Flipping the breaker is not a good way. Breakers aren't really designed for everyday use.
 
1A Rock said:
You were not using any air during this. Why would you think any oil would have been sent through your lines?
Click to expand...
And any that did because of your filtration system should be between the compressor and your filters, which is what you are counting on to catch anyway. I'd do whatever I needed to help the compressor and not worry about the piping.
 
but sometimes I forget
Click to expand...
With what All you have gong on,that would be understandable. :cool:
I have an Orange tag on my valve so when I hit the door,look and see which way it is before I kill the lights.
But sometimes I forget....
 
MikeK said:
Makes you think about it.
I leave the power on but my air system is cut off at the tank Outlet via ball valve. Unless you have air leakage with the compressor piping, switch, relief of itself,should have decent pressure to start with but my breaker box is not exactly 'easy access' and I'm too lazy to install a disconnect at the pump so it's hot 24/7.
They all leak 'some,somewhere and my tank supply line always has a slight oiliness on it but no really detectable leak. When I really run the piss out of it,it has slight haze smoke just from the heat generated and being inside the shop is noticeable but not what you likely had.
If it was 'hurt,you'd know it. You been listening to it for awhile and would automatically notice 'something is different' ex Soundman!!
Do a complete maintenance as earlier prescribed and either valve it At the tank or a lever type ele.disconnect at it or wherever is more convenient. Flipping the breaker is not a good way. Breakers aren't really designed for everyday use.
Click to expand...
My compressor has a manual electrical shut off switch built in. Last one did as well.
 
I had that happen many moons ago. Forgot to shut the ball valve on the tank and a hose burst. The overload on my motor kicked it off thankfully but now I close ball valve and cut power. Not a big fan of uncontrolled fires.
 
Well, you have all helped me to realize I need to start shutting off my compressor at night.
I always shut off the valve leading to the air hose but only shut the compressor off when I am going to be gone for a few days.
 
I do the same, I just shut down the ball valve at the compressor....I think Ill try to change my ways.

Weird though at my old house I would always kill the breaker before I walked out. Not sure why I don't do that anymore, its right next to my door.
 
I have a dewalt 60v leaf blower and the reviews say to never leave it store with the battery on it because it's known to spontaneously combust!!
 
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