70 buick gs quarters

J

JWolfe

i dont know if im putting this in the right place or not if not it wouldn't be the first mistake.
my question is i have the quarter panels removed from the car (hardtop) and it is bolted in 3 body mounts to a body cart im going to take the car to get electrolytic dipped 60 mi away the dipper puts them in a basket basically under rockers will the car be ok structurally or should i brace it floors inner structure etc are perfect would like to get you guys opinions
thanks justin
 
If I was doing it Justin I'd run some cross bracing diagonally from the front of one door opening to the rear of the other opening and vice versa. Tack it on and that should keep it nice and square.
 
With intact floors and a hardtop roof, the door openings aren't going to move a whole lot. The rear body and floor might, though.
 
Not about keeping the door openings from moving, bracing it there diagonally keeps the entire center section square. Nothing is gonna move (in terms of flexing) in the center section. Might also want too add some cross bracing in the rear section as well. Front should be ok.
 
thanks i think ill just brace front and rear good a little overkill won't hurt better safe than sorry
i do know the 65 gto i have on rotisserie now which has good floors and inner structure got tighter door gaps on top when i picked it up i thought no way so picked up on rockers with lift and sure enough they widened back out
 
It might help if you find out what they mean by basket


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The stripper I use lifts from the top


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There is a place that will subsequently dip the vehicle in primer once it has been stripped this way, but I never remember what it's called. To me it is the only way to go with this type of procedure.
 
Those Mustang pictures were taken during the process, they will be clean when returned to the customer.

Here is a seat that was stripped the same way, and this is the way it was returned to me.

43563c2c-a224-4ba8-aa79-d85ff37a0903.jpg


It cleans in the cavities, behind brackets, and the electrolysis method, unlike acid, cleans most of the seams because it pulls the rust out
rather than dessolving it.

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This is the inside of a tailgate that was cleaned then left unattended for two years with only a couple of small rust spots starting. I don't know
how they were able to rinse the inside with only a 6 inch square opening for access.

14c5d3ef-39ab-4b3c-9bb3-2134db2affe8_zpsxn12jews.jpg~original
 
What does that process cost? Seems to really clean, what are they using if it is not acid? I would hope that no resdue is left behind to give adhesion problems. 2yrs and no rust it must be leaving something behind I would think.
 
DATEC;n74303 said:
What does that process cost? Seems to really clean, what are they using if it is not acid? I would hope that no resdue is left behind to give adhesion problems. 2yrs and no rust it must be leaving something behind I would think.

It's a non chemical process that works on the principle of electrolysis. A sacrificial anode (hunk of metal:)) is placed in the solution (basically water) and the electric current is run from the anode and the body. The rust then is persuaded to release it's bond to the steel. That is a very basic summary of how it works. Main thing is it can get a a body very clean especially in places that other processes can't.
 
They put some type of rust inhibitor on that can be washed off when ready for primer. It cost more than acid stripping, but it does a much better job and its safer. I think redi-strip uses the same process. Like anything else the process is only part of it, the person doing the job is the main reason for a good or bad experience, so check references. Also some bodies have rubber seals and sealants that will be difficult to replace after its cleaned, 55-56 chevies for example shouldn't be dipped.
 
the guy i use does all metal for 2k
i personally love this process because all rust is killed u cant do that with a blaster ex braces inner structure etc all you do is fill them up with media i used to be worried about not being able to coat everything but then i realized none of this was coated from the factory at least no gm cars up to 70 i the thing about electrolytic is there is no metal etch therefore it does not rust very easy and the metal is clean
i try to coat everything as good as possible cavity wax works good also i guess my thought is I'd just as soon have all the hidden rust gone rather than leave it hek they lasted 45 years that way
 
Thats cool. I never seen that process before and surely don't think anyone is doing it in my area or I'm sure I would have heard if it. How long does it take to complete a project? The only acid dipping I knew of in my area was engine builders dipping blocks and heads but never a whole car, this process looks ahloe lot safer and enviromently friendly.
 
the guy i use is in Evansville indiana if i take a truckload of parts yo him it takes a week to get back the process is fairly slow they first dip for 4 hr cycles in a caustic hot tank pull it out and psi wash until most of the undercoat mud grime etc is gone most of the paint is gone too then it goes in the electro tank for 4 hr cycles till its clean neat process when i get smart enough to post pics from my phone ill do that
 
Looking for this process online, do you have a link to what it is? I see people using alot of differant things to do it for vinager to molasses to washing soda. I would like to try it for the hell of it. Also what kind of primer are they using after it is stripped?
 
sorry i don't have a link he doesn't have a website ill be down there next week ill ask exactly what he uses
they don't prime there i just scuff it waterborne it and shoot 3 coats of epoxy
 
DATEC;n74566 said:
Looking for this process online, do you have a link to what it is? I see people using alot of differant things to do it for vinager to molasses to washing soda. I would like to try it for the hell of it. Also what kind of primer are they using after it is stripped?

Did you check for a company called redi-strip?
 
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