600 grit continous sandpaper where to get

S

ShaunD

I have been looking all over for 600 grit continous roll sand paper for block sanding. I have sheets of sandpaper but would like the adhesive back sandpaper roll so that I can block out the car. Everywhere I look they only sell up to 400 grit. Anybody have a source I could order a roll from.
 
only company i know if that has it or atleast used to, is klingspor. havent bought any in a while but last i know they have it.
 
I was going to use it for my final sanding before basecoat. I just wanted to use a longboard to make sure everything is straight.
I am a newbie having never painted a car before. I guess I am wondering when using a longboard for blocking what grits do you normally use to level the surface? Can I level it down with 220 and then proceed to 600 just using a normal hand held block? I just didnt want it to be wavey I wanted it nice and smooth and figured I should board it all the way up to 600
 
600 isn't going to do much leveling. I try to get everything dead straight with 100 - 180. After that, it is just a matter of removing the scratches from the paper you used before.
 
I just read your post again. Going from 220 right to 600 is too much of a jump, in my opinion (you'll sand all day trying to take out 220 scratches with 600). Also, 220 is a little fine for leveling, in my opinion.

I would do something like this: 80 -100 - 180 - 320 (all long board) then 400 or 600 DA with an interface pad or soft block by hand. There are a lot of details I left out, but you can do a search on here and find tons more info on this topic.
 
yes the 600 would just clog on you anyway thats why most companies dont make it. the 600 just needs to be put on a da with an soft interface pad and a quck buzz over to just remove the hand sanding scratches. i usually finish out my primer with 320-400 by hand then 400-600 on a da, then its ready to go.
 
Indasa sells 600 on a sticky back roll.
Search the internet and you'll find it.
3M makes 500 on the roll.
 
so really your lower grits such as 100 and 180 are used to level the surface and then your 220 on up are use to remove the scratches from the leveling process. correct? And then your finish up is done with 400-600 on a DA again removing scratches from the 220-320 grit paper.
I think I got it figured out now. Makes sense then why its hard to find board paper in 600 grit as it wont work well and it really isn't used for blocking its used more for scratch removal.
So I think I will use 100 and then 220 to block everything level and then 400 to remove the 220 scratches from the blocking process and finally finish up with 600 on a DA to polish it out before the base. Does this sound reasonable?
Thanks for your help. I appreciate you guys answering my rookie questions.
 
One of the most common mistakes is using paper that is too fine and polish the waves rather than cut them off.

With that said, is a good practice to finish your filler and block primer with 180. Most people do it this way to avoid the possiblility that primer could shrink later down the road in coarse 80 or 100 scratches and show up in the final finish.

If you decide to use anything coarser than 180 for finishing filler or blocking primer, you must allow your primer to flash properly between coats. For this reason, I normally do 1 coat and then block it, two at the most. Sitting your parts in the sun between stages and before your final blocking with 320 is a great practice. I use a combination SPI epoxy and Turbo for blocking. I have no idea what would happen if you used one of those off-the-wall brands like PPG or Dupont???
 
I understand now! Use paper less than 180 to level everything. Beyond 180 you are just polishing out scratches. So I will block with 100 and then 180 until level. Right now I think I have everything pretty level but then again I am a green horn so obviously my touch for this is not up to speed by any stretch. Thanks again for the advice.
 
ShaunD;8286 said:
. . . Right now I think I have everything pretty level but then again I am a green horn so obviously my touch for this is not up to speed by any stretch. Thanks again for the advice.
Click to expand...

Guide coat is your friend when it comes to getting it straight.
 
I typically block with 150 then 240. Lay 1 or 2 more coats of primer, 320, then buzz with 500/600.

Seems to work for me!


but then again, I might be a hack and not know it yet.
 
It seems that everyone has their own ways. It also depends how bas the panel is. With my 34, I had all kinds of problems with taking out wood and putting new in, not to mention all the patch panels I had to make._
 
strum456;8285 said:
One of the most common mistakes is using paper that is too fine and polish the waves rather than cut them off.

With that said, is a good practice to finish your filler and block primer with 180. Most people do it this way to avoid the possiblility that primer could shrink later down the road in coarse 80 or 100 scratches and show up in the final finish.

If you decide to use anything coarser than 180 for finishing filler or blocking primer, you must allow your primer to flash properly between coats. For this reason, I normally do 1 coat and then block it, two at the most. Sitting your parts in the sun between stages and before your final blocking with 320 is a great practice. I use a combination SPI epoxy and Turbo for blocking. I have no idea what would happen if you used one of those off-the-wall brands like PPG or Dupont???
Click to expand...

I LOL'd at this. At a smaller shop i used to work at, we sprayed PPG's Nexa Autocolor (PPG bought out from ICI) That was expensive stuff! A gallon of 2k Buff color primer and hardener was $280! My paint prep guy would screw me on any job that got primed close to 5 o'clock if I wasnt watching him like a hawk (running production, like i had time to babysit a "professional").

He'd mist the 1st coat on super dry, then HAMMER it on, using the gun's air to "force flash" in between. It'd sit overnight, I would block out, mask and shoot it, only to have the customer bring it back 2 days later because it all shrunk down. Our PPG rep was baffled. Wasnt until the prepper came clean on his methods that we figured it out.

PROPER PRIMER FLASH TIME IS A MUST!!
 
ShaunD;8286 said:
I understand now! Use paper less than 180 to level everything. Beyond 180 you are just polishing out scratches. So I will block with 100 and then 180 until level. Right now I think I have everything pretty level but then again I am a green horn so obviously my touch for this is not up to speed by any stretch. Thanks again for the advice.
Click to expand...

You're still shaping with the finer grits-just think of it as removing smaller defects including the rougher scratches. Use guidecoat for every stage of sanding so you can see what defects are there and being removed-and when to stop.
 
It's not just scratches showing, shrinkage can also show as ripples like urethane wave but sometimes worse. Proper grit selection, primer application, and cure time are required to get the best results.
 
Bob,

Have you ever seen SPI epoxy or Turbo shrink like this? I think Barry told me a while back that it would take an extreme amount of abuse. Something like 10 wet coats with no flash at all.
 
No, I've never had any shrinkage problems with SPI. I did see one person abusing SPI high build primer over DPLF epoxy that was too fresh and he had some cracking problems later- It was like he was using the HB like bodyfiller-the cracks looked 1/8" thick!
 
I have never painted a car before. I have stripped some down and parts them but never put on together. I found a nice shape south carolina 1979 trans am and thought what the heck I always wanted to do it so why not give it a try. I paid $600 for the car and I had a ton of parts from other trans am and firebird that I parted out so why not give it a shot. Luckily I found information on SPI before I used some the majors junk. I made plenty of mistakes along the way which has costed me time to repair but overall I think I have been doing pretty darn good for a complete rookie. I bought a welder (something else I always wanted to do) and had my brother in law show me how to weld as that is what he does for a living. So now I have a nice hobart mig welder to work with. I cut out all the rust and welded in fresh steel. I have learned a ton from this project. I figure if I totally mess it I can part the car out for more than I have into it but at this point it looks pretty good.
The only real experience I have is working with limos. I worked in a shop that built limos. I was finish guy that had to wet sand a wheel and finish them out. I seen some pretty crappy paint job turn out awesome after wet sanding a wheeling.
There is no worry about me waiting for proper flash time between coats. I work full time as a teacher and wife also works full time. When she is at work and I am home I have a 2 year old to take care of. so normally I might get around 5-7 hours a week to mess around with my project. In most cases I will lay down primer 1 day and then sand the next day. Same way with filler. I will lay it down one day and then primer over it another day. I have been messing around at this turtle slow pace since january. I have been using a 17 inch longboard to sand stuff straight in the large areas and smaller block in the tighter areas. When I find a low spot I fill it. I have 2 seperate colors of spi 2k primer. I will use one color as my main primer and the other color as a guide coat. before doing body work I used spi epoxy to seal everything up. if I cut to bare metal I spray over it with a coat of spi epoxy. Right now everything feels really smooth. I have couple of area to work on but nothing horrible. I am just a tinkerer.
 
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