3 coats of universal

Flow coat is when you paint your vehicle, then sand the fresh clear after it is cured. This way you get it nice and flat. Then you go back and lay a couple more coats of clear. Comes out real slick this way.
 
Bob Hollinshead;20028 said:
Eric, I haven't seen any problems doing the reclear over 320 grit-I have a test area I did on a car three years ago that doesn't show any problems. Barry has recomended it in the past but I think he does have some reservations about it being right for everyone? I will monitor this one like everything and see if any shrinkage shows scratches down the road-this job was 4 coats then waited 4 days, sanded with 320 and recleared with 3 wet coats, blocked next day with 1000 then let it set for two days then 1500,2000, and buff-it was rushed IMO so maybe we'll see some scratches. But think about it-since this is all within the clear a light sand and buff once everything has stabilized is all that's required if there is any shrinkage that shows up.
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How's this one holding up Bob??
 
Perfectly, nothing has changed. I've done the 320/flowcoat on numerous jobs since and no problem with any of them.
 
I have a few coming up by the end of the year that I'm going to Flow coat.. Anxious to get to that point.. In body work stages now.
 
If I want the paint to really pop I spray 3 coats of clear wet sand 400 or 600 followed with 3 more coats of clear. Wet sand with 800, 1000, 1500, 2000, 2500 and buff. We did this on a Mustang over 6 years ago and it still gets best in class trophy and looks like it was just painted.
 
Rusty, are you sanding with 400 wet? the 320 dry works nice-very easy to see your progress. Years ago I hesitated on using anything coarser than 800 but Barry's suggestion sure shed light on how much time I was wasting.
 
Wow 400 seems way too agressive for clear coat! I just wet sanded 3 coats of UV clear with P800 wet followed by 2 more coats of UV clear. I swear I can see some scratches under the right light. I suppose this technique is used under the assumption that it will be getting a full color sand and polish?
 
if you sand it and let it breath for a while it will self heal a little . this helps hide the cuts . depends a lot on how old the clear is .
 
steve b;35186 said:
Wow 400 seems way too agressive for clear coat! I just wet sanded 3 coats of UV clear with P800 wet followed by 2 more coats of UV clear. I swear I can see some scratches under the right light. I suppose this technique is used under the assumption that it will be getting a full color sand and polish?
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Are you sure the scratches are in the clear and not the base?? If it's a metallic I would say they are in the base.
 
rusty428cj;35218 said:
Are you sure the scratches are in the clear and not the base?? If it's a metallic I would say they are in the base.
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Yes, The 2k primer was sanded with P600 wet, followed by epoxy primer as a sealer, 3 coats of SPI black base, then 3 coats of SPI UV clear. I then sanded the cleat with P800 wet followed by 2 more coats of SPI UV clear. It is note noticeable except to a trained eye. an average person would never see it.

Last night I knocked it down with 2000 wet and polished it out. Everything is gone now and it looks great.
 
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