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2 HVLP sprayers
- Thread starter Muske
- Start date
Yes, you can connect them in parallel and then go to a larger hose for out to your gun. I don't think that will help at all. These things often are low in atomizing pressure without augmenting it with a touch of compressed air from a small compressor--or a bit of regulated nitrogen from a cylinder to do low or M/S automotive clears consistently. Doubling the cfm is not likely to help.
For people interested in trying such things today---What I learned in experimenting and using mine is:
If you have an older "bleeder gun" that's fine--if not--just make sure that your two units each bleed air out via a 3/16" hole at the outlet for connecting the hose when the blower is running if you try that route. That's how all the new ones are sold now.
Almost all of these use Ametek Lamb brand motors and the sweet spot for "high volume air flow in cfm out of them" is about where indicated on the attached in yellow based on the outlet size. Most are a 3/4" garden hose connection. The outlet is choked down by putting a reducer bushing in the 2" outlet on some if not most. That's where a lot of the heat comes from. The 6 stage one is now made with that as a cast aluminum piece and sized for 3/4" garden hose connection. The cfm output is fine for the light duty 3stage or the 6 stage. But for the 3 and 4 stage ones their pressures are marginally low to shoot urethane clears. The six stage might be better and more adequate with pressure if it is closer to 10 psi through the gun. These can be cheap to make and buy the six stage blower yourself for $300 from a central vac supply if you are in a pinch and don't have electrical power for an adequate 5-7.5 HP compressor. I think I will buy one this winter and play with it to see what it might do or what its shortcomings might be.
The heat generated by these HVLP blowers (on mine at least) is enormous. It's an 80F rise on a 95F+ day and in just about 20 minutes of running. Gun's so "F"ing hot it was 120F to try to hold on to at temperature equilibrium after 15 minutes of using and you cannot hang on to it--even with a cotton glove without cooling the airflow down. The 33' hose had completely heated up and it was 135F at the gun end on that day.
That was an interesting design solution to cool mine down to ambient air temperature with a simple 1"copper tube exchanger and it was a lot more BTU's of heat to dump than I initially calculated. It works great for little cost in materials--it was all left over remnant for me. But on mine it was an -16 to -18% flow loss through it doing this. That kind of pinches things down even more on my 4 stage one even more away from having enough atomization energy for any kind of urethane clear without either a touch of additional pressure at the gun or not using a separate source for pressurizing the cup instead or tapping into the gun. Do that and they work great on "Production" clears. Works great on base, epoxy, 2K primer as longs as you get your air cooled down when the weather is warm and you use slow activators and good slow or extra slow SPI reducer. You want the best reducer with blended tail solvents--not the generic stuff the auto paint store wants to sell you. I found no need to augment with extra pressure for these materials--mine lays out fine with the larger air flow cap and 1.0mm fluid tip for epoxy and 1.5mm for 2K primer. Set-up right a 2mil wet film can be had and the transfer is great--set up wrong--about as wasteful as it gets.
870 sq ft for coverage for an ready to spray activated epoxy gallon optimized is a lot of potential material savings.
Mine runs 60-62cfm output @5.5 psi and is about 17mph out the hose--is a 4 stage no longer listed by them. Cool the air flow to ambient at the gun and it is 4.5 psi about 52cfm. Just not enough power without air/compressed gas assist either into the gun or a touch more pressure to the cup.
The psi x the cfm (power) should be over 300 as a number to get on the page for having enough energy to shoot production clears like glass.
Certainly such things are likely to never be a commercial body-shop application or durable enough for that--but for an occasional user--they can be made to work very well. It's certainly not take it out of the box and achieve good results your first time out on a hot summer day.
I think some of the marketing hype on these things borders on deception and to suggest them to be something they are not primarily designed for and users like to believe otherwise without a challenge of a learning curve. It was time well spent for me in learning to think about differing things and helped me really dial in my compressed air applications a lot better. But, I would not recommend it to others without such considerations as above. Took a lot of time.
For people interested in trying such things today---What I learned in experimenting and using mine is:
If you have an older "bleeder gun" that's fine--if not--just make sure that your two units each bleed air out via a 3/16" hole at the outlet for connecting the hose when the blower is running if you try that route. That's how all the new ones are sold now.
Almost all of these use Ametek Lamb brand motors and the sweet spot for "high volume air flow in cfm out of them" is about where indicated on the attached in yellow based on the outlet size. Most are a 3/4" garden hose connection. The outlet is choked down by putting a reducer bushing in the 2" outlet on some if not most. That's where a lot of the heat comes from. The 6 stage one is now made with that as a cast aluminum piece and sized for 3/4" garden hose connection. The cfm output is fine for the light duty 3stage or the 6 stage. But for the 3 and 4 stage ones their pressures are marginally low to shoot urethane clears. The six stage might be better and more adequate with pressure if it is closer to 10 psi through the gun. These can be cheap to make and buy the six stage blower yourself for $300 from a central vac supply if you are in a pinch and don't have electrical power for an adequate 5-7.5 HP compressor. I think I will buy one this winter and play with it to see what it might do or what its shortcomings might be.
The heat generated by these HVLP blowers (on mine at least) is enormous. It's an 80F rise on a 95F+ day and in just about 20 minutes of running. Gun's so "F"ing hot it was 120F to try to hold on to at temperature equilibrium after 15 minutes of using and you cannot hang on to it--even with a cotton glove without cooling the airflow down. The 33' hose had completely heated up and it was 135F at the gun end on that day.
That was an interesting design solution to cool mine down to ambient air temperature with a simple 1"copper tube exchanger and it was a lot more BTU's of heat to dump than I initially calculated. It works great for little cost in materials--it was all left over remnant for me. But on mine it was an -16 to -18% flow loss through it doing this. That kind of pinches things down even more on my 4 stage one even more away from having enough atomization energy for any kind of urethane clear without either a touch of additional pressure at the gun or not using a separate source for pressurizing the cup instead or tapping into the gun. Do that and they work great on "Production" clears. Works great on base, epoxy, 2K primer as longs as you get your air cooled down when the weather is warm and you use slow activators and good slow or extra slow SPI reducer. You want the best reducer with blended tail solvents--not the generic stuff the auto paint store wants to sell you. I found no need to augment with extra pressure for these materials--mine lays out fine with the larger air flow cap and 1.0mm fluid tip for epoxy and 1.5mm for 2K primer. Set-up right a 2mil wet film can be had and the transfer is great--set up wrong--about as wasteful as it gets.
870 sq ft for coverage for an ready to spray activated epoxy gallon optimized is a lot of potential material savings.
Mine runs 60-62cfm output @5.5 psi and is about 17mph out the hose--is a 4 stage no longer listed by them. Cool the air flow to ambient at the gun and it is 4.5 psi about 52cfm. Just not enough power without air/compressed gas assist either into the gun or a touch more pressure to the cup.
The psi x the cfm (power) should be over 300 as a number to get on the page for having enough energy to shoot production clears like glass.
Certainly such things are likely to never be a commercial body-shop application or durable enough for that--but for an occasional user--they can be made to work very well. It's certainly not take it out of the box and achieve good results your first time out on a hot summer day.
I think some of the marketing hype on these things borders on deception and to suggest them to be something they are not primarily designed for and users like to believe otherwise without a challenge of a learning curve. It was time well spent for me in learning to think about differing things and helped me really dial in my compressed air applications a lot better. But, I would not recommend it to others without such considerations as above. Took a lot of time.