'68 Coronet R/T
Oldtimer
If I do that, the door edge will be above the level of the cowl panel.
I'll double check to see if there is any room to raise it without going too far.
1968 Plymouth GTX
- Thread starter '68 Coronet R/T
- Start date
I'll double check to see if there is any room to raise it without going too far.
I'm not familiar with mopar, but you might be able to reform the top front of the door to match the cowl, if its not too far off and fender fit will allow it. Or you could weld a bead down the back edge of the door.
Could a weld bead on the door edge also fix the body line, along with Adtech P17 down the door for an easy shift in the line?
https://www.expresscomposites.com/pub/media/wysiwyg/TDS-AD/TDS_-_P-17.pdf
TYPICAL PHYSICAL PROPERTIES Tensile Strength (ASTM D-638.91)..................................4074psi (28MPa)
Tensile Elongation (ASTM D-638.91.................................................................................................1.2%
Flexural Strength (ASTM D-790.92)...................................................................................................7080psi (49MPa)
Compressive Strength (ASTM D-695.91) ........................................................................................8992psi (62MPa)
Shrinkage (Cast Bar)(ASTM D-2566.86)............................................................................................0.00982 in/in
Coefficient of Linear Thermal Expansion (TMA) (ppm/°F (°C)) ...............................................25 (46)
Water Absorption after 24 hours immersion in distilled water (ASTM D-570)..................0.149%
Could a weld bead on the door edge also fix the body line, along with Adtech P17 down the door for an easy shift in the line?
https://www.expresscomposites.com/pub/media/wysiwyg/TDS-AD/TDS_-_P-17.pdf
TYPICAL PHYSICAL PROPERTIES Tensile Strength (ASTM D-638.91)..................................4074psi (28MPa)
Tensile Elongation (ASTM D-638.91.................................................................................................1.2%
Flexural Strength (ASTM D-790.92)...................................................................................................7080psi (49MPa)
Compressive Strength (ASTM D-695.91) ........................................................................................8992psi (62MPa)
Shrinkage (Cast Bar)(ASTM D-2566.86)............................................................................................0.00982 in/in
Coefficient of Linear Thermal Expansion (TMA) (ppm/°F (°C)) ...............................................25 (46)
Water Absorption after 24 hours immersion in distilled water (ASTM D-570)..................0.149%
Last edited:
'68 Coronet R/T
Oldtimer
Set the hood in place to check for alignment issues. Everything looks pretty decent considering the fenders have like three bolts each and the hood is just sitting there.
Noticed that passenger door has a bunch of holes where someone tried to install a mirror.
A couple of extras on the driver's door as well.
Just when I thought I was done welding on this car.
Noticed that passenger door has a bunch of holes where someone tried to install a mirror.
A couple of extras on the driver's door as well.
Just when I thought I was done welding on this car.
MJM
Promoted Users
It seems like every older mopar has an issue with the mirrors, and the fix was too add more holes and screw it down harder. I made a backer plate mounted on the inside to stop the metal from flexing / moving when mounting the mirror.
'68 Coronet R/T
Oldtimer
I spent over an hour adjusting and readjusting those hinges. It appears that they were already raised to the maximum height and by the time I was done, it was right back to where I started from.
Today, I plan to determine the best means for adjusting the gaps. I will be welding up all the extra mirror mounting holes also.
'68 Coronet R/T
Oldtimer
Welded the extra mirror holes on the driver's door.
After inspecting the upper rear door gap on the passenger's side door, I realized that the driver's side quarter panel wasn't shaped right.
It needed to be lowered slightly and extended. When doing so, I found that it too had been brazed before.
I plan to get these doors fitted and then remove them and get back to working on the body.
After inspecting the upper rear door gap on the passenger's side door, I realized that the driver's side quarter panel wasn't shaped right.
It needed to be lowered slightly and extended. When doing so, I found that it too had been brazed before.
I plan to get these doors fitted and then remove them and get back to working on the body.
That looks really good. I am going to start to strip my car and was planning to use stripping disks as well. Do you have a recommendation for the grit/manufacturer? I have seen some suggest 36 grit - but I feel that takes out too much metal. Thanks, Art
'68 Coronet R/T
Oldtimer
Ideally, I would media blast it rather than spend the time and effort stripping it.
I used 36 grit as there was a lot of undercoating in places and the finer grits just plugged up. The 36 grit also seem to wear down fairly quickly so they are only really aggressive when brand new.
I used 36 grit as there was a lot of undercoating in places and the finer grits just plugged up. The 36 grit also seem to wear down fairly quickly so they are only really aggressive when brand new.
'68 Coronet R/T
Oldtimer
Test fitting the old tail panel and quarter panel extensions. My good panel and tail light housing are being re-chromed.
I didn't bolt the panel in place so the right side is tipping back slightly at the top.
Spent a lot of time today messing with the trunk lid. Turned out the left side edge had a slight bow in it. The right side wouldn't quite seat all the way and when I pushed down on it, the left front corner would raise up slightly. Made a lot of progress but still not quite there yet.
I didn't bolt the panel in place so the right side is tipping back slightly at the top.
Spent a lot of time today messing with the trunk lid. Turned out the left side edge had a slight bow in it. The right side wouldn't quite seat all the way and when I pushed down on it, the left front corner would raise up slightly. Made a lot of progress but still not quite there yet.
i use this stuff its badass
Yup, thats the name Jim C gave it.
'68 Coronet R/T
Oldtimer
Sprayed the interior metal today.
This is one coat of color and one coat of clear, since most of this will be covered anyway.
By the way, the color looks much brighter in sunlight. Frost Blue.
This is one coat of color and one coat of clear, since most of this will be covered anyway.
By the way, the color looks much brighter in sunlight. Frost Blue.
'68 Coronet R/T
Oldtimer
Decided to shoot my white epoxy sealer coat today. Planned on following up with base and clear, however when I looked in my cabinet the only clears I had are too old and not near enough.
Should I leave it in sealer or shoot the base and leave it in base coat until the clear arrives. Tried calling to order some but they are closed, so now it's a website order and probably won't even ship until late Monday.
The dark spots on the lower left of the photos is from my iPhone camera.
Should I leave it in sealer or shoot the base and leave it in base coat until the clear arrives. Tried calling to order some but they are closed, so now it's a website order and probably won't even ship until late Monday.
The dark spots on the lower left of the photos is from my iPhone camera.
MJM
Promoted Users
If the sealer laid down nice and flat, which I'm sure it did. I would shoot another sealer coat when you have all products ready to go. My thinking is you'll have that wet on wet application from sealer, to base. It also gives you an opportunity to scuff up any areas on the current sealer coat your not happy with.