1968 Plymouth GTX

'68 Coronet R/T said:
Got a coat of epoxy on the underside of the truck lid today.
I will need to let it cure some and the apply seam sealer to all the edges where the metal was folded over. Then apply another coat of epoxy before moving on to the top side.
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FYI, I found that SPI reducer works great when smoothing seam sealer. Lay down the seam sealer, then wet a gloved finger with the reducer and smooth it out.
I was using the Eastwood one-part product seam sealer product.
 
'68 Coronet R/T said:
I was welding up a couple of spots on my deck lid when I heard this loud pop and air rushing. Got to the compressor and it was running with a strong blast of air hitting me in the face so I couldn't really see anything.

Ran and shut the circuit breaker off. The compressor immediately shut down but the air leaked for a couple of seconds and then a "click" and it all went silent.

Click the circuit breaker back on and everything was fine until the PSI got to about 120 and the whole show started over again.

Apparently my Safety Pressure Valve is toast, so a new one is on order. Can't complain as this compressor has served me well for 16 years now.
Recently had to replace the motor capacitors, pressure regulator and tank pressure valve and now hindsight is telling me I should have replaced all the pressure relief valves back then too.
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I had the same thing happened but turned out to be the valve that relieves pressure on the pump when it shuts off so it doesn’t start with pressure
 
Dean Jenkins said:
FYI, I found that SPI reducer works great when smoothing seam sealer. Lay down the seam sealer, then wet a gloved finger with the reducer and smooth it out.
I was using the Eastwood one-part product seam sealer product.
Click to expand...
I tried that and it worked pretty good. Then I tried the 710 Wax and Grease Remover and thought it worked even better.
Ended up using the Lord Fusor 803 DTM as nobody had the 805 HD in stock.

I'll let it set up and then shoot the other coat of epoxy.
 
'68 Coronet R/T said:
I tried that and it worked pretty good. Then I tried the 710 Wax and Grease Remover and thought it worked even better.
Ended up using the Lord Fusor 803 DTM as nobody had the 805 HD in stock.

I'll let it set up and then shoot the other coat of epoxy.
Click to expand...
Now I recall that I used the 710 as well and it worked good.
The gap between my bed and bed walls was nearly 1/2". Asked Barry how long to cure before epoxy.
1 week.
 
Snowing here today, so my hopes of getting a second coat of epoxy on faded fast.
Had the booth and metal temps above 70 when I applied it. The tech sheet says 25 minutes to tack (depending on humidity and temperature) and that you can paint it immediately. After two hours, the temp in the booth had dropped to 60 and the seam sealer was still a bit soft for me to be comfortable shooting epoxy over it.
 
Well it warmed up enough on Thursday for me to get the second coat of epoxy on the underside.
Had to keep the heater on in the garage for the next 24 hours but it was cured enough so today I could install the trunk lid and shoot two coats on the topside.
Lid Top in Epoxy Primer.JPG


Next, I have a number of small rusted metal repairs to get done and then I will move on to the doors and front fenders.

The plan for now, is to get everything rust free and in two coats of epoxy primer, then I can start the real work of getting it all prepped for painting.
 
I dismantled the steering column today, trying to get some items ready for paint.
After seeing 64Rivi's steering wheel repair, I thought I would take a closer look at mine. Ugh!

It is very discolored and quite weathered as can be seen here:
Steering Wheel Condition.JPG


It has a number of these small chunks missing as well:
Steering Wheel Wear.JPG


A replacement wheel runs about $400 plus tax and shipping, so I'm thinking it is worth the effort of restoring it.
Any thoughts, options, suggestions?
 
I'm probably going to catch some grief for my methods, but here is how I would consider fixing it. Wash it in hot water with dawn or gain, let it set in the sun for an afternoon to dry out. The next time you are spraying epoxy have a few ounces left. I usually put a piece of all thread through them so I can then clamp them in a vice. start brushing epoxy on it all over every couple hours until I ran out or it set up. Works
 
'68 Coronet R/T said:
Yes, I copied and pasted it in my GTX documents folder, Jim has a way of making everything look easy. :cool:
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I just know when to say "good enough"... it all about impression not perfection! There are flaws in everything I do but they are to the level that when looking at a whole you don't see them.. If I took the steering wheels out and put them on a table for close inspection they are not as perfect as you may think.
 
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PC-7 will be too thick for that. May have to thin it down with Acetone or something or use JB Weld. Both sand to about the same miserablness.
 
Set the steering wheel aside for now, since I bought a rotisserie and got the car mounted on it.

I thought all the blast media was out of the car until I turned it on it's side. Then I turned it upside down and got a real shock. All in all, I rotated the car about 5 times, tapping the frame rails and supports with a dead blow hammer, to get all the media out.

Really wondering why I didn't buy one of these years ago?
Rotisserie.JPG


I did a lot of hammer and dolly work on the quarters as both had been previously banged up.

Tried real hard to use as little body filler as possible and then shot another coat of epoxy on the quarters, cowl, roof and trunk lid. My plan is to shoot another coat of epoxy tomorrow and then when cured block sand it all with 180 grit to see where I'm at.

Hoping to go straight epoxy with this car and I'm so confident, that I ordered a gallon of 2k build primer to have on hand. LOL

Cowl.JPG


Left A Pillar.JPG


Right Quarter.JPG
 
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