1934 Chevy Master Sport Coupe (3 window)

The bad news :( Run.jpg

Drop of clear.jpg

Sweat Drip.jpg

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According to the weather man, the morning I shot base, was the hottest in our area since 1934! I taped the selves of my suit inside my gloves and still got sweat on the car!

I got 1 run in the body and another on the hood (not shown).

I got a drop of clear out of the gun cup lid, but at least it landed on the frame where the fenders cover.

Worst of all, I got a ridiculous amount of dirt in on the back of the car from me climbing into where the rumble seat would be, so I could spray the roof. It is hard to see it fully in the picture.

HOW HARD WILL IT BE TO SAND AND BUFF OUT DIRT THAT MUCH TRASH? I plan to sand with 400 wet and re-clear the whole car, but I have a feeling I'll just have the same problem next time.
 
throw those worthless latex gloves in the trash ! all they are good for is to collect sweat and dump it on the car. get some cotton jersey gloves and throw them in the wash. they will soak up the sweat .
 
not when they are damp . but you couldn't give me a box of dribblers for painting. ok for cleaning guns and such but not much use for anything else. i've seen way too many jobs ruined mid coat of clear by those damn things.
 
I have jersey gloves that I use for sanding (thanks to Shines advice). I think I wiill try that for my next clear session. A little lint has to be better than sweat in wet paint.
 
Did you sand the sweat mark off the roof and apply more base? Sanding the clearcoat defects out is not a big deal-if you can get the next application of clear on good that would be to your advantage. How many coats of clear on now? You can fix the spot on the frame by sanding then just dust on a little basecoat before you reclear. Use a step up stool on the sides of the car to shoot the roof so you don't have to climb in the rumble seat. Judging by the reflection on the rear panel-if the rest of the bodywork is that straight your finished product will be excellent. Can you wait till the temps cool a little before the next shoot?
 
Thanks so much for all the help on this project. I know this wouldn't be going nearly as well without you and Barry especially.

I got the sweat mark out of the base without too much trouble. I can't tell it ever happened.

I will take your advice and dust some base on those drips before more clear.

Right now I have 3 coats of clear on the car. I am almost done blocking everything with 400. It has cooled off quite a bit. I plan to reshoot later this week. I hate climbing in the rumble seat, but I just don't know how else to do it. I can't reach around the rear window frame without getting in there either. Barry suggested slamming 2 coats on that rear panel and letting it sit for 10 min before climbing over it. This way the dirt will only be on the surface. I'm all ears if anyone has other ideas.

Bob, I plan to try out the 3m buffing compounds that you recommend. What all pads will I need? I plan to use Eagle film and Trizact that I got from Jim C for final sanding.
 
These are what I've been using-they work great. Compound pad: 05703 http://3mcollision.com/products/buffing-pads/compounding-pads/3m-perfect-it-wool-buffing-pad-05703.html

Polishing pad: 05705 http://3mcollision.com/products/buffing-pads/compounding-pads/3m-wool-polishing-pad-05705.html

***This is needed for the double sided wool pads: Spindle adapter: http://3mcollision.com/3m-adaptor-05710.html

And for step 3 ultrafine polish foam pad: 05733 http://3mcollision.com/products/buffing-pads/polishing-pads/3m-perfect-it-ultrafine-foam-polishing-pad-05733.html and backing pad: 05717 http://3mcollision.com/3m-hookit-backup-pad-05717-7-inch.html

Any quality twisted wool pad will work and Mequires also makes some quality foam pads for the polishing steps, Norton's pads aren't bad either.
 
Tape off all your drip rails and edges to protect them before you use the buffer-if this is your first time watch your edges and bodylines. Try to buff off of the edges not into the edges. Slow rpms for more control, the compound works good at slow speed, and you can hand rub the detail areas if needed.
 
I'm assuming you don't buff every square inch then? Only if I have dirt or something would I hand rub something? Will a cotton rag work for hand rubbing? I was thinking of getting a pneumatic 3" mini buffer from harborfreight to help with the tight spots. Any thoughts on that?
 
The mini buffers are handy for sure, but any bodyline or belt line area, jamb or wheel opening lip-anything small in surface area or high in detail----you can hand rub these areas with no problem especially if they are sanded to 3000 grit. Cotton rags work well-bedsheets,pillow cases-etc...., plain ol' Bounty paper towel will get you through the compound step or quality bodyshop toweling. You can buff whatever you feel needs attention, some don't do the lower areas or detail areas-etc... On the highend stuff I buff or rub out every square inch including the jambs and hinge and lock pillars.
 
Now I just have to finish the running boards and front fenders. I'll take that issue to the metal working section soon.P1010259.jpg

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This is a great project, I love what you are doing, and kudos for keeping it in the family. I love that red and white '70s Ford truck in the background too. Will it be next?
 
Eric, really nice work there! That hood you were fighting with early on sure looks straight. The lines, fit and finish look really good! Nice job! A lot of work but the procedures and products used will stand the test of time.
 
Thanks for the kind words guys. I should especially thank Bob Hollinshead and Barry Kives for stepping me through this process. I could have never done it without all of you that make this forum so successful.
 
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