Clearcoat boiling/solvent trapping/micro bubbles?
- Thread starter ebaypdllc
- Start date
Panels temps are the same. I actually warmed the panels up to 85 with a hair dryer...I warmed up the clearcoat also.
I just did a test, did (2) coats with 30 minute flash time shooting at 28 PSI. Its starting to happen at about 1 hour in...I give up this really sucks this has to be one of the most frustrating things I ever experienced.
I just did a test, did (2) coats with 30 minute flash time shooting at 28 PSI. Its starting to happen at about 1 hour in...I give up this really sucks this has to be one of the most frustrating things I ever experienced.
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That again is not solvent pop.
I have read all the posts and have only one idea.
The next test is spray wet coat of 2100, and lets cut the time between coats to 5 minutes or 10 at most.
If this works, I will explain how I came up with this usually lousy advice.
Also, make sure the product is 70 or don't use it as has been pointed out.
I have read all the posts and have only one idea.
The next test is spray wet coat of 2100, and lets cut the time between coats to 5 minutes or 10 at most.
If this works, I will explain how I came up with this usually lousy advice.
Also, make sure the product is 70 or don't use it as has been pointed out.
tomsteve
Member
youve warmed up the panel and CC. what about the temp of the room your spraying in? keeping it too cold for the product?
I will have to get that for you. I just shot a 2nd coat at about 7 minutes and it was tacky where I could put my finger in it but not pulling up and stringing...
LPH80 1.2.... 2 1/2 turns on fluid. Fan 90% open pressure 22 PSI. Paint booth fan is off right now.
Now the fun part waiting. I went to walmart in the middle of the night and got a lamp and cooler. I am warming up the paint products to 75-80 degrees now.
If we suspect that this is infact co2 gassing caused from moisture. I eliminated the idea that its wetting the floor. I ran 50 ft of copper drops that goto the QC3 desiccant filter which shows BLUE that its not expired. What else can I add to eliminate the possibility of moisture?
The desiccant snake do I add that after the QC3 filter or at the end of of air hose?
LPH80 1.2.... 2 1/2 turns on fluid. Fan 90% open pressure 22 PSI. Paint booth fan is off right now.
Now the fun part waiting. I went to walmart in the middle of the night and got a lamp and cooler. I am warming up the paint products to 75-80 degrees now.
If we suspect that this is infact co2 gassing caused from moisture. I eliminated the idea that its wetting the floor. I ran 50 ft of copper drops that goto the QC3 desiccant filter which shows BLUE that its not expired. What else can I add to eliminate the possibility of moisture?
The desiccant snake do I add that after the QC3 filter or at the end of of air hose?
I live close to Eastwood paint company. I can grab a desiccant snake when they open. I'm desperate to try anything at this point...
I'm stumped on what else to modify or try and change. I'm getting nice looking jobs paint jobs, its just this dam micro pinholes all over driving me nuts. The clear dries perfectly glossy..
I'm stumped on what else to modify or try and change. I'm getting nice looking jobs paint jobs, its just this dam micro pinholes all over driving me nuts. The clear dries perfectly glossy..
One coat of that clear should be touchable in 8 to 12 mins at 70.
That will tell me a lot, at this point the next panel spray 2nd coat when you can touch 1st coat.
As I read this, all this is a waste if the product temp is cold, and there seems to be no solid answer.
That will tell me a lot, at this point the next panel spray 2nd coat when you can touch 1st coat.
As I read this, all this is a waste if the product temp is cold, and there seems to be no solid answer.
I have the clearcoat at 75-80 being heated by a lamp. Whats strange is if I use the other brand clear, its does total dieback failure so its obviously something I am doing wrong?
I have some retarder and very slow activator on hand here also if that helps. I'm currently using the medium activator.
I have some retarder and very slow activator on hand here also if that helps. I'm currently using the medium activator.
I use motobase, SPI slow reducer...However all these parts that I am painting doing test on are factory painted take off parts from Ford that i'm just trying to get this issue resolved with. I am simply giving them a quick sand with 600 grit and shooting clearcoat over them trying to eliminate these pinholes.
I originally thought that the undercoatings was the problem and solvents were trapped but I got it narrowed down just to the clearcoat process giving me trouble. I even shot a part with 1 coat and it did the same thing.
I originally thought that the undercoatings was the problem and solvents were trapped but I got it narrowed down just to the clearcoat process giving me trouble. I even shot a part with 1 coat and it did the same thing.
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Perfect, all this little stuff like one coat and it did it helps a lot.
The reason I brought up base is you used a swear word and right away thought you were using private label crap.
The first coat can only do this solvent or gas if.
So what are you cleaning panel with and what is the wait time before the first coat of clear.
The reason I brought up base is you used a swear word and right away thought you were using private label crap.
The first coat can only do this solvent or gas if.
So what are you cleaning panel with and what is the wait time before the first coat of clear.
Are you wiping base?
Whats the set time before you clear? Like I asked.
The best part of first coat doing you eliminated 30 other causes if 2nd coat doing it.
So its either cleaner not dry or water from cold product or compressor or low wall pressure could cause tin to over react.
Whats the set time before you clear? Like I asked.
The best part of first coat doing you eliminated 30 other causes if 2nd coat doing it.
So its either cleaner not dry or water from cold product or compressor or low wall pressure could cause tin to over react.