Polyester primers

Not all Evercoat jobbers have it according to my sales guy. Trying going to the homepage and calling them direct. As for the difference read over the TDS's. Smooth sprays smoother about 2 mils per coat. Hi-build will spray up to 6 mils per coat.
Perhaps my jobber could find a local jobber for you. E And M Auto Paint And Supply (434) 473-6992
 
I just got off the phone with the Evercoat Representative who services the Northwest (Utah). No venders for Evercoat Edge in our area (Montana). Evercoat Edge is a new product line developed for certian distributers. Not sure what that meant, but its not limited to just poly fillers (High Build and Smooth). Evercoat Edge High Build is identical to Evercoat Superbuild (Part 730). Evercoat Edge Smooth is identical to Evercoat Finish Sand (Part 738). Activators for Super Build and Finish Sand are 733 (slow) and 734 (Fast). The activators are epoxy base and mixing ratios are 4:1. Both Finish Sand and Super Build are DTM and pot life is a little longer in the cup. Super Build is for higher build, Finish Sand is for less build.

Slicksand is older technology and uses MEK activator. It has a shorter pot life in the cup. Its harder to mix because is drops opposed to parts. It does not sand quite as easy as Super Build, but way harder than Finish Sand.

Pretty much what I learned on the forum before I called Evercoat Tech, except the Evercoat Edge poly primers are identical to previous Evercoat poly primers.


Assumiming I heard everything correctly, you now know what I know.
 
Sounds similar to HB Body - Bodyfill 307 filling primer, which I have used a few times with good results.

Mike
 
So I have been using SPI High Build. Its great. I assume the correct steps for panels with a lot of body work is epxoy, filler, poly filler, high build or turbo, sealer, then single stage or b/c. That sounds like a lot of material over the metal. Would that suggest you are not doing the first step of metal working adequately?
 
The better you do the initial work, the less primer surfacer you will need. But on vehicles that need to be perfect, that is kind of impractical. Mirror straight finishes nearly always need multiple priming and blocking sessions, no matter how good you are.
 
Makes sense. I guess one of many things I have never understood is the reason to spray 2k primer over poly primer. Or even poly primer over multiple coats of SPI Epoxy that have been block sanded beteen coats. If you apply three coats of epoxy, block sand, then apply three more coats of epoxy and block sand, and it comes out perfect, what would justify poly followed by high build or turbo with more block sanding?
 
Outlaw;n85200 said:
Makes sense. I guess one of many things I have never understood is the reason to spray 2k primer over poly primer. Or even poly primer over multiple coats of SPI Epoxy that have been block sanded beteen coats. If you apply three coats of epoxy, block sand, then apply three more coats of epoxy and block sand, and it comes out perfect, what would justify poly followed by high build or turbo with more block sanding?
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Pebble Beach?
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Outlaw said:
Pebble Beach? Im missing something.
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You asked what would justify the extra steps and I was suggesting the kind of end result needed to win the Pebble Beach Concours d'Elegance. I am sure the winning paint job (it was all SPI) required more than 3 coats of epoxy, block sand and 3 more coats of epoxy.
 
I have not seen anything from evercoat labeled "edge" so far, I have kind of settled in on the 4:1 finish sand for when I need a poly prime though. The film is pretty decent, it sands good from the get go, no sticky skin. it stinks like hell but sands super nice and sprays better than any poly I've tried so far.

That being said, I've been having fantastic results dry blocking fully cured SPI epoxy.... I have a really big car I'm doing currently with this process (1958 plymouth "christine")

SPI Epoxy may just replace most of my need for high build primer products.

(fingers crossed)
 
northerndave said:
I have not seen anything from evercoat labeled "edge" so far, I have kind of settled in on the 4:1 finish sand for when I need a poly prime though. The film is pretty decent, it sands good from the get go, no sticky skin. it stinks like hell but sands super nice and sprays better than any poly I've tried so far.

That being said, I've been having fantastic results dry blocking fully cured SPI epoxy.... I have a really big car I'm doing currently with this process (1958 plymouth "christine")

SPI Epoxy may just replace most of my need for high build primer products.

(fingers crossed)
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You can't beat SPI Epoxy, but i'm finding poly has a place for me, I still have yet to try these new poly primers though.. Most likely on my next project.
 
I like to use Z-Chrome Rust Defender. Specified for bare metal and contains zinc so if I sand through the epoxy in a spot or two I don't need to spray epoxy again, just shoot the Rust Defender.

My cars never see rain let alone snow and salt so I sleep well doing this...

Don
 
dhutton01 said:
I like to use Z-Chrome Rust Defender. Specified for bare metal and contains zinc so if I sand through the epoxy in a spot or two I don't need to spray epoxy again, just shoot the Rust Defender.

My cars never see rain let alone snow and salt so I sleep well doing this...

Don
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I have used a LOT of Z-Chrome over the years.. Really good stuff.
 
Evercoat's new polyester primers (Finish sand, super build and fiber fill), are claimed to be 500 hours salt spray tested, and can be applied on bare steel. I personally can tell how they are long term as I just started using the Finish Sand, all I can say, is that it sand way easier than featherfill G2 and the 4:1 mix ratio is very nice.

Despite all that, I intend to use it over epoxy primer, why take the chance.
 
i know a couple people that have used the fiber fill. they said it sands kinda hard but not terrible. havent used it myself. i still use the good old trusty g2. i just havent has a reason to change. builds nice and sands good.
 
I haven't tried other than the finish sand in the new line. The build of the finish sand is more than adequate. Super build and Fiber fill, fill a lot more from what I'm told. I always used Finish sand G2 in the past, but I guess that now with the Finish sand that is a lot easier to sand I am not going to go back to G2. It also has 2 different hardeners, a slow and a fast, but when I use it, it work that isn't rushed, so no fast for me. Finish Sand is a little more expensive than G2 since the hardener has to be bought separately. Don't get me wrong G2 is a great product, if finish sand would not have come out, I would still stick with it.
 
Was going to try the new 4 to 1 mix stuff, but it wasn't available in black, so just sticking to g-2 myself for now.
Was talking with an experienced collision repair guy at a show last year that said he painted straight on top of the g-2. Something else I'd never do.
 
I have no 'experience' with anything New per say. What I will 'say' is,
G2 has been my 'go to' for build when needed But, SPI Epoxy has been my 'primer for many years and I've had O 'problems over G2 and Under especially on 'glass be it SMC or straight f'glass. You can never go 'wrong as long as you give Anything Time to gas out and Epoxy before or after.
Barry and I have talked about It and I don't waste any cash on 2K primer anymore.It's Always Epoxy from the git go unless I have a troublesome pos.
 
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