Final sanding, buffer selection, pads, compounds, and Information Overload….

Whitesnake said:
Yeah I looked at the 3d wool as well. I’m sure it works great. The price was kinda crazy though. And like you I run smaller pads and it’s only available in larger size. I just placed an order a couple days ago for more lake country pads. Wool, orange and black ccs and also force hybrid foam. I also threw in some rupes pads and buff n shine pads. I like to try new things. But boy it all adds up in the shopping cart.
Click to expand...
Who do you usually order from?
 
Lizer said:
The buffing part is the easy part, the sanding part is the worst part. You might feel it went well but you won’t know until you buff and you see all kinds of sanding scratches still left. I think people will tend to undersand more than oversand.
Click to expand...
yes thats the real trick. its all about knowing the paper and how far you need to go with each grit and since you cant see the scratches when its that fine, you need to go by experience.

couple tips that may help....

1. sand only 75% of the orange peel with the 1000. leave some behind. this gives you something you can visually see when working the final 25% out with 1500. you will also be able to tell when the 1500 dulls out because you can see it cutting slower. if you work out the last 25% of the peel out with 1500 then you should be good to go with blue bufflex.

2. use blue bufflex WET. just a spray bottle of water is fine. work the blue in a small area until the slurry gets a little pasty and then move on. once the slurry dries on the panel it should be solid white. you should not be able to see color through it. if you can see color then you need to slow down.

3. once you have done 1 good pass with blue, wipe the whole area clean with a microfiber. do it one more time a double speed. if it took you 10 min to do the side of the car, go back and do it again and spend 5 min. it just makes sure your 100% and didn't go light in any areas. after this, if the clear has sat 2 days or more then you can go over it with 8000 if you want.

if you follow the steps and all is good then it should buff like butter. you can almost do it and not even pay attention and come out with a perfect finish.

@Lizer, i know you were doing single stage when you tried it. i always have way more trouble with ss than clear as well. was curious if you had a chance to try it on clear coat?
 
Jim C said:
yes thats the real trick. its all about knowing the paper and how far you need to go with each grit and since you cant see the scratches when its that fine, you need to go by experience.

couple tips that may help....

1. sand only 75% of the orange peel with the 1000. leave some behind. this gives you something you can visually see when working the final 25% out with 1500. you will also be able to tell when the 1500 dulls out because you can see it cutting slower. if you work out the last 25% of the peel out with 1500 then you should be good to go with blue bufflex.

2. use blue bufflex WET. just a spray bottle of water is fine. work the blue in a small area until the slurry gets a little pasty and then move on. once the slurry dries on the panel it should be solid white. you should not be able to see color through it. if you can see color then you need to slow down.

3. once you have done 1 good pass with blue, wipe the whole area clean with a microfiber. do it one more time a double speed. if it took you 10 min to do the side of the car, go back and do it again and spend 5 min. it just makes sure your 100% and didn't go light in any areas. after this, if the clear has sat 2 days or more then you can go over it with 8000 if you want.

if you follow the steps and all is good then it should buff like butter. you can almost do it and not even pay attention and come out with a perfect finish.

@Lizer, i know you were doing single stage when you tried it. i always have way more trouble with ss than clear as well. was curious if you had a chance to try it on clear coat?
Click to expand...
Again, very helpful instruction and advice. I can see where stopping with the 1000 before all the peel is gone will be a good way to monitor the cut/progress. Mine is also single-stage paint.
thanks again.
 
Jim C said:
yes thats the real trick. its all about knowing the paper and how far you need to go with each grit and since you cant see the scratches when its that fine, you need to go by experience.

couple tips that may help....

1. sand only 75% of the orange peel with the 1000. leave some behind. this gives you something you can visually see when working the final 25% out with 1500. you will also be able to tell when the 1500 dulls out because you can see it cutting slower. if you work out the last 25% of the peel out with 1500 then you should be good to go with blue bufflex.

2. use blue bufflex WET. just a spray bottle of water is fine. work the blue in a small area until the slurry gets a little pasty and then move on. once the slurry dries on the panel it should be solid white. you should not be able to see color through it. if you can see color then you need to slow down.

3. once you have done 1 good pass with blue, wipe the whole area clean with a microfiber. do it one more time a double speed. if it took you 10 min to do the side of the car, go back and do it again and spend 5 min. it just makes sure your 100% and didn't go light in any areas. after this, if the clear has sat 2 days or more then you can go over it with 8000 if you want.

if you follow the steps and all is good then it should buff like butter. you can almost do it and not even pay attention and come out with a perfect finish.

@Lizer, i know you were doing single stage when you tried it. i always have way more trouble with ss than clear as well. was curious if you had a chance to try it on clear coat?
Click to expand...
Never had a chance to try with clear but I am really suspecting it’s because of single stage, and it’s old too.
 
Lizer said:
Never had a chance to try with clear but I am really suspecting it’s because of single stage, and it’s old too.
Click to expand...
It will probably be a 6 month timeframe between when I sprayed my SS and when I get around to the sanding and buffing…
 
for single stage i use utech u500 which is great stuff and i typically dont have to sand and buff it since i use it just as a base color but there have been a few times where i tried to do it and i did fight it. now, if i know i have to sand and buff it i will put a couple coats of clear over it so i can sand and buff that. its defiantly a night and day difference. i dont know if its because there is pigment in it or not. i am typically getting on it when its 2-3 days old. i get more pigtails in it as well where clear it is rare. i do notice ss clogs paper waaay more even when wet sanding.
 
Last edited:
I cut and buff SPI single stage more often than clear. The yellow 3D wool pad cuts it like buttah…. :)

Been recommending those pads for a few years. Just need an expert to try one and weigh in to add some credibility… They are not too expensive when they have a sale.

Don
 
Jim C said:
for single stage i use utech u500 which is great stuff and i typically dont have to sand and buff it since i use it just as a base color but there have been a few times where i tried to do it and i did fight it. now, if i know i have to sand and buff it i will put a couple coats of clear over it so i can sand and buff that. its defiantly a night and day difference. i dont know if its because there is pigment in it or not. i am typically getting on it when its 2-3 days old. i get more pigtails in it as well where clear it is rare. i do notice ss clogs paper waaay more even when wet sanding.
Click to expand...
I used the Motocryl. Ordered the 3D ACA 510 and 520 yesterday. Still reading the mfr info about all the various wool pads LC offers.
thanks
 
dhutton01 said:
I cut and buff SPI single stage more often than clear. The yellow 3D wool pad cuts it like buttah…. :)

Been recommending those pads for a few years. Just need an expert to try one and weigh in to add some credibility… They are not too expensive when they have a sale.

Don
Click to expand...
Looks like that yellow x-cut pad they offer only comes in the 8”. It is expensive… even $15 more than their white wool pad.
thank you
 
MAKZ06 said:
Looks like that yellow x-cut pad they offer only comes in the 8”. It is expensive… even $15 more than their white wool pad.
thank you
Click to expand...
Yes it is. But it works better than any other wool pad I have tried. How much is your time worth? At my age it’s just about priceless… ;)

Don
 
dhutton01 said:
Yes it is. But it works better than any other wool pad I have tried. How much is your time worth? At my age it’s just about priceless… ;)

Don
Click to expand...
Absolutely. At this stage I’m sure not worried about cost. I’m not sure the Flex handles an 8” diameter.
Which rotary buffer are you using?
 
The flex buffers i mentioned above do not handle a full size pad. 6” for those. They are mid size buffers.
 
MAKZ06 said:
Absolutely. At this stage I’m sure not worried about cost. I’m not sure the Flex handles an 8” diameter.
Which rotary buffer are you using?
Click to expand...
IMG_2597.jpeg

I’ve been using this for roughly 10 years but I only do two cars a year.

Mandatory backyard hack disclaimer inserted here. You are better off listening to the pros.

Don
 
Last edited:
dhutton01 said:
View attachment 29419
I’ve been using this for roughly 10 years but I only do two cars a year.

Mandatory backyard hack disclaimer inserted here. You are better off listening to the pros.

Don
Click to expand...
Thanks. If I‘m remembering correctly Jim had purchased and was using the Metabo a few years ago. Then all of a sudden the latest posts I was searching showed he was back with a Flex.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top