window for G2 or FF after epoxy

R

Roger

Applied 2 wet coats SPI epoxy yesterday mid day and all went well. Decided next I want to spray either G2 or feather fill.

What is the window that I have to do this, < than 7 days without reappliing epoxy?

If I can (hopefully) shoot G2 or FF by Wednesday (3 days after epoxy) can I do it without scuffing or should I scuff no matter what?

Thanks for any help!!
Roger
 
Roger;10433 said:
Applied 2 wet coats SPI epoxy yesterday mid day and all went well. Decided next I want to spray either G2 or feather fill.

What is the window that I have to do this, < than 7 days without reappliing epoxy?

Close, you have seven days without full sanding. You could sand and apply G2 without re-applying epoxy for up to about a month without re-appying epoxy first, depending on conditions.

If I can (hopefully) shoot G2 or FF by Wednesday (3 days after epoxy) can I do it without scuffing or should I scuff no matter what?

I scuff after 72 hours, others feel differently. One thing for sure, scuffing with a red pad will not hurt.
 
it sure wont. anything past 1 day of fresh epoxy, i scuff with a red scotch before applying primer or poly. may not be needed...but helps me sleep better at night. need all the help i can get.. LOL
 
scuff the epoxy if there's any doubt, I check the epoxy hardness with my fingernail if it's over one day old, never had any problems with the epoxy a few days old but if it seams really hard and cured I definitely scuff it up.
 
i think it really depends on what you are spraying over it. 3 days with poly primer and your prob ok but as bob said it never hurts to sand. you just have to buzz a da over it quick and your good to go.
 
So I got the epoxy all scuffed up real good with 180 on da and red scotchbrite.

I got 2 choices for nozzle size to use to shoot the featherfill G2, 1.8 or 3.2 mm. which one do you reccomend?

Thanks for all the suggestions in this thread and the whole site for that matter, my bodywork is looking pretty darn good.

Roger
 
not sure on the featherfill.....but slicksand sprays good out of a sata 2.0 or 2.5 tip. I tried using a 1.8 one time and just wasnt cutting it (to me). if you thin it out, it would work. If all you have larger is that 3.2..just adjust the fluid in and use that.
 
If you do end up reducing polyester primer definately use acetone, some of the poly primers recomend urethane reducer or acetone but the acetone works a lot better. I'd give the 3.2 fluid tip a try-you can always choke the fluid adjustment down if it comes out to heavy. The 1.8 probably won't work unless you reduce the primer.
 
I would use the 3.2 as well.. Ive tried using a 1.8 and I had to reduce the poly to get it to lay out and not be a peppery mess..

If its too heavy, do as Bob pointed out and crank the fluid in, until you have it spraying like you want it!!

Do spray outs with masking paper to adjust the fan and air pressure as you need
 
just dont spend too much time doing spray outs! LOL. remember its a high build poly primer....its going to lay heavy with a fair amount of orange peel. this is not a concern. get the gun spraying wet and even and go to town!
 
Shot 2 wet coats with Feather Fill / no Slick Sand available locally. Used the 3.2 nozzle,, it turned out great with very little peel. It sure didn't take long to burn thru a half gallon on a small pickup cab.

Thanks again for the help!!
 
Now that I have first round of blocking half done it looks like I will need to use some glazing in a few low spots, nothing to serious (yet). I also have some rage gold filler showing in several places but the low spots have the feather fill still there.

Can I glaze over the FF or do I need to re-epoxy first?
If I can glaze over the FF what scratch do I need?
What is a good glaze to use?

please set me straight and,
Thanks for any suggestions.

Roger
 
You can put any polyester filler or glaze over the FF, just scuff up the low area with 180 and apply. Evercoat metal glaze, easy sand, glaze coat or one from another manufacturer-they will all work. Or pickup some plastic honey and thin out your Rage Gold. The only areas that will need epoxy are sand throughs to bare metal.
 
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