What to replace GM's chassis coating with?

C

C10chas

My Express Van has a thick black cosmoline type wax substance on the outside and inside of the frame, and it has failed miserably in preventing rust as I have to section out and replace half of it because it rotted so bad it has disintegrated.
I purchased half a frame from a wrecking yard and plan to swap it a couple feet in front of the front spring hanger to the rear bumper.
My "new" frame section has rusty areas (surface) and I really wanted to strip it down and epoxy prime, but this waxy stuff is very difficult to remove from the nooks and crannys esp around the cross members, spring hangers etc. After using oven cleaner and two miserable pressure washing sessions in the rain/snow and much wire brushing I am ready to use whatever else is available that will stick to this crap, but nobody I have asked locally has anything available.

Its just a work truck, any suggestions?
 
http://www.google.com/products/catalog?q=rusfre&hl=en&client=firefox-a&hs=UQi&rls=org.mozilla:en-US:eek:fficial&prmd=imvns&bav=on.2,or.r_gc.r_pw.r_cp.r_qf.,cf.osb&biw=1366&bih=665&um=1&ie=UTF-8&tbm=shop&cid=16044504968321598113&sa=X&ei=IKpRT8j1C4HPgAf0vNHYDQ&ved=0CE8QgggwAA

http://www.google.com/products/catalog?q=rusfre&hl=en&client=firefox-a&hs=UQi&rls=org.mozilla:en-US:eek:fficial&prmd=imvns&bav=on.2,or.r_gc.r_pw.r_cp.r_qf.,cf.osb&biw=1366&bih=665&um=1&ie=UTF-8&tbm=shop&cid=16444130134840467045&sa=X&ei=IKpRT8j1C4HPgAf0vNHYDQ&ved=0CFIQ8wIwAQ

Post up a picture of the rusted out rails with the waxy coating still on if you can, I'm having trouble visualizing complete rust through with the coating still intact. Isn't the express van a unibody design or is it full frame? The rusfre products would probably work ok for what you're doing, I've mixed the two and haven't seen it crack or peel when used on underbodies of beaters. The rubberized alone will eventually dry, harden, and crack when it ages.
 
Good morning Bob, the rusted through section of the frame is getting replaced with the half I purchased at the wrecking yard. The w.yard frame has surface rust on maybe an eighth of it. I have seen Rusfte for sale online, but was wondering if it would set up enough to use on the exterior of the frame so it can be handled during installation.
Man, this crap is a nightmare to remove. I am going to soak it down good with paint stripper and pressure wash it again, this time with hot water, because I really want to epoxy it!
I did try to put up a pic, but my iPhone didnt want to. I will post one from my laptop.
Thanks photo (28).jpg
 
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A good solvent wash I think is the only way you're going to get it off I think, epoxy followed by the rusfre would be the best way to protect it from roadsalt. For some reason the oem factory stuff doesn't work very well-I see the same thing in this area. Some gunk engine degreaser and a scotchbright might also be a good first step. Sandblast after degreasing, clean, epoxy, install, respray the weld areas, rustproof. Good luck with the battle! We are seeing the newer chev pickups in this area having frames rusted out and or cracking when they are only 6 years old- hydroformed rails are light and strong but being a lot thinner than the older designs there isn't as much material there for the rust to work on. The boxed design sure likes to hold dirt/abrasives/road salt.
 
Very true, this started rusting much sooner than it should have, and compounding that I live on a dirt road and all the salt/sand gets in there and it's done.
And wow, I am surprised how light the half frame is!
I find myself wondering why GM cut corners on rust proofing, hell they should know just what to do by now.
Thanks
 
Well I tried acetone and whatever was in my spray gun cleaning bottle, either reducer or lacquer thinner and neither did anything. So it is currently sitting in the shop with a heavy coat of paint stripper on it.
The bottle says it can sit for up to 24hrs before removing.....But I may have made a mistake (after the oven cleaner fumes) I decided to give the "safe" citrus type stripper a try (it smells real good!) hopefully it works, I'm spending to much time on this lol
 
C10chas;17717 said:
Well I tried acetone and whatever was in my spray gun cleaning bottle, either reducer or lacquer thinner and neither did anything. So it is currently sitting in the shop with a heavy coat of paint stripper on it.
The bottle says it can sit for up to 24hrs before removing.....But I may have made a mistake (after the oven cleaner fumes) I decided to give the "safe" citrus type stripper a try (it smells real good!) hopefully it works, I'm spending to much time on this lol
Click to expand...

Have you tried tranny fluid? It seems to be a good solvent for asphalt based products. Maybe a weed burner and a scraper? just a couple thoughts.
 
Senile Old Fart;17769 said:
Have you tried tranny fluid? It seems to be a good solvent for asphalt based products. Maybe a weed burner and a scraper? just a couple thoughts.
Click to expand...

Nope haven't tried the tranny fluid. Yet!
I'v actually been using a large propane torch (sounds like a hot air balloon)
To soften it up and to help the stripper work better because it's cold out.
If heated enough to melt, it creaps/spreads out of every crack, weld etc.
So far i'v used: degreaser, oven cleaner twice, solvents, crud cutter, paint stripper, pressure washer cold water twice & hot water twice, various motor driven wire brushs, air powered stripping tool, hand w brush, scrapers.
This stuff truly is a nightmare, but it's almost ready to sand blast. :)
 
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