Want to try something different.

'68 Coronet R/T

'68 Coronet R/T

Oldtimer
I am looking to paint my truck a custom color.
My thoughts are to use the SPI silver I have as a base coat and then spray a candy/pearl mixed into SPI inter-coat clear. This will be covered in UV clear coat.
This is the color I was thinking of shown in HOK:
KK01BrandywineoverSilver.jpg


The Paint with Pearls website offers a candy pearl to mix in to inter-coat which I believe would get me the same effect:
MauveRedCandyPearl.jpg


I have never done anything like this and have been trying to read as much information as I can. What gets confusing is the Paint with Pearls site seems to suggest painting over black base to achieve the best effect while the HOK KK01 (pic above) goes over their -----@--------- Silver base.

Another thing is that HOK really isn't very clear on their instructions as to using this KK product. Can it be used like the Paint with Pearl stuff and just added to SPI intercoat clear?

Any help/guidance would be appreciated. Thanks.
 
I don't think you'll need the pearl to match that HOK sample-it looks like a basic candy over coarse silver to me. A lot of the newer HOK colors are two stage from what I understand-mixes of dye,metalics,and pearls. Order up some candy concentrate, some pearl, silver, intercoat, and do some testing maybe. Shoot a coat of black before the silver. I just got some pearl shipped from TCP Global and their sparkle pearl looks every bit as good as HOK's version IMO at about 80% less cost.
 
Thanks Bob, I ordered the KK and the PWP pearl I showed above. Tomorrow I'll order the SPI stuff I need.
Tried to check the TCP pearl but all I found was a base coat product is that what you were talking about?

Another question: do you activate the inter-coat clear when adding candy or pearl? I am assuming yes but I want to be sure.
Jim
 
PWP "candy pearls" will bury the base color in no time if not used judicioulsy. They are not a transparent "candy"pearl as the name suggests, they are a "candy colored" pearl.

I bought some of their pewter gray titanium candy pearl.

I just now went to their web page to get the name of the color and I noticed they no longer call it candy pearl, it is now referred to as candy pigment.

http://www.tcpglobal.com/hokpaint/hok-kandy-koncentrates.aspx says:

kandy koncentrates mixed with intercoat clear and shot over BC02 -----@--------- silver
 
Okay I see the difference.
When spraying a candy is it better to mix for coverage in fewer coats, say 2-3, or will more coats provide depth and effect? The range they give on the amount of KK to add per quart is quite large so I am assuming more candy in the mix means less coats.
 
Jim C can tell you everything you ever wanted to know about the kandies and the pearls... It really all depends on the color of the candy... On the tangerine it was a 1 part intercoat to a 1.5 part reducer and 2 oz ( to the sprayable qt ) of the KK dye... On something like Cobalt blue... ( as he explained much more difficult ) it was 1:1.5 and then 1 0z ( per qt ) of the cobalt kk....... On the truck pics I posted the other day that was either 2 or 3 coats of spi silver and 5-7 coats of the intercoat / dye mix.......
12022010016.jpg

On this HD I did it is 3 coats of the LApis blue glamour metallic and then 3 coats of the cobalt dye / intercoat mix..... The cobalt over the silver is very difficult as explained to me by jim c and by spraying the cobalt over the lapis it makes it easier and achieves a very similar effect.... Hope this helps!
 
Thanks. I guess I'll have to play around some and decide what works best.
My questions are basic for sure but I really wonder if there is any benefit to the 7 coats of candy over make a richer mixture and spraying only 3 coats?
Do multiple coats give it a depth or cause it to have more brilliance, etc.?
I haven't seen JimC posting much on here lately hopefully its because he is busy.
 
The number of coats changes your color..... If you wanted a lighter shade of the tangerine say 4-5 coats... a little darker maybe 6-8...
 
The depth won't change if you're using an intercoat for the dye but the weaker it is the easier it will be for you to get it on uniform, if you try to apply it in three coats and go light somewhere on one coat it'll definately be noticeable, if you apply it in 6-7 coats and go light in an area on one coat it will be less noticeable. Plan on walking the car full length, watching your start and stop and overlap areas. Repairability sucks. If you can get a formula that you like that's applied in two stage it'll be much easier to repair. I think HOK has formula info on their site so you can get an idea of what they are blending to achieve their colors-might want to look at those.
 
This is my horse hauling, hay getting, lumber toting, truck that needs a paint job real bad so I thought it might be a good candidate for my first try at a custom color. If it turns out lousy and I hate it I'll just shoot some base and clear over it and call it good.
Won't know until I try so I'll gather as much information as I can and then practice until I get the look I want. I plan to write the steps and mixtures down and keep them in a safe place.
Thanks again guys for your help.
 
I hesitate to spray a custom color on a work-type vehicle that is likely to see damage. While I applaud your adventuresome spirit, I wonder what you will want to do if it gets a crunched fender or the like, and can't really be matched, even getting close can be a real challenge.

If you are dead set, keep a careful record of how you made the paint and how you shot it, don't rely on memory! Even with all the right info, matching a candy is a real bear, you have to sneak up on it with a different process that the original job, and be prepared for it to be a shade off no matter what.
 
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