Tips to scuff epoxy on whole car well after recoat window

C

CJK440

Promoted Users
I'm picking back up a stalled project that has sat coated in SPI epoxy for a number of years.

I figure a DA would be good to get a good tooth on the external surfaces, not sure what grit though.

But what about tight areas like jambs and window channels with trim studs in the way. Anything other methods other than going nuts with a red scotchbrite pad? I was thinking Nylon abrasive brushes or similar?
 
180 on a DA would be my choice for the most of it. There are scotchbrite pads coarser than red that would work easier on the jambs and such. When I get back to my shop I will get you a part number. @ Chris Hamilton talked about them a while back and they work great.
 
If it was me, I would hand sand with 180 grit for a fresh clean deeper scratch. I would also hit jambs, windows channels and trim studs using 180 grit and scotchbrite pad.

Do you have a link to this Nylon abrasive "brushes"........never heard of them.
 
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3m 7446 is a scuff pad that is roughly 150 grit. Those work good where paper is hard to use, places like floorpans/underside s corners of jambs etc.
I agree as well that if your epoxy is cured then it's a best practice to go over with 180 paper or coarser then re-coat with epoxy.
 
Chris_Hamilton said:
3m 7446 is a scuff pad that is roughly 150 grit. Those work good where paper is hard to use, places like floorpans/underside s corners of jambs etc.
I agree as well that if your epoxy is cured then it's a best practice to go over with 180 paper or coarser then re-coat with epoxy.
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Hand sand or machine sand with 180 or coarser ?

If using a da, what grit to use for his application?
 
MJM said:
Hand sand or machine sand with 180 or coarser ?

If using a da, what grit to use for his application?
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Either IMO. You will get the same effect. Scuffing with that 150 pad will also give the same effect. DA is faster of course. Hand sand will give slightly deeper scratches but nothing that the epoxy can't deal with. Most important thing is that everything gets scratched. All we are trying to do at this stage is get scratches on it so that we have good adhesion for the fresh epoxy going over it. Then we do our corrective or final sanding over the fresh epoxy.
 
RosharonRooster said:
id vote its a great time to re-block the vehicle with sunmight 180 grit on a black diamond block!
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The car, a 74 Z28, had quarters and other metal work done but nothing applied thicker than a few coats of epoxy to seal the steel. So no real material to block.

The scuff is to get a fresh coat of epoxy down so I can start with filler/turbo high build.
 
MJM said:
If it was me, I would hand sand with 180 grit for a fresh clean deeper scratch. I would also hit jambs, windows channels and trim studs using 180 grit and scotchbrite pad.

Do you have a link to this Nylon abrasive "brushes"........never heard of them.
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Something like this.

www.empireabrasives.com

4" Nylon Wire Wheel - 1/4" Hex Shank

Black Hawk Abrasives 4 Inch Nylon Filament Wire Wheels allow precision brush action for each operator. These wire wheels are constructed with tough, long lasting, non shedding, heat resistant nylon filaments filled with abrasive grains. These abrasive laced nylon bristles conform around odd...
www.empireabrasives.com www.empireabrasives.com

Or this


Figured could be a way to scratch around trim studs etc. But maybe the nylon could contaminate the epoxy.....
 
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CJK440 said:
The car, a 74 Z28, had quarters and other metal work done but nothing applied thicker than a few coats of epoxy to seal the steel. So no real material to block.

The scuff is to get a fresh coat of epoxy down so I can start with filler/turbo high build.
Click to expand...
Good plan
 
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