The "Jim C. cutting and buffing method" summarized

[ksungela]

I got excellent results with the 3D yellow pad and 510 compound on a rotary after sanding up to 2000 grit. I finished it off with 3D's smooth purple pad https://3dproducts.com/products/3d-5-5-light-purple-foam-cutting-polishing-pad and 520 on 3D's DA polisher https://3dproducts.com/products/3d-dual-action-polisher

 

[SMS]

Shout out to Jim C. Followed the general procedure outlined here. Final step was black foam orbital and 520.

 

[Jim C]

that looks great

 

[Tungsten]

Great thread.So ive hard blocked my clear with 1000,80% peel is gone.Can i cheat now and go 1500 with my DA? it has the foam pad.Then 2000 DA ? Then 2500 DA? Sure would save my arms.Not looking for show car finish.
Thanks.

 

[dhutton01]

Great thread.So ive hard blocked my clear with 1000,80% peel is gone.Can i cheat now and go 1500 with my DA? it has the foam pad.Then 2000 DA ? Then 2500 DA? Sure would save my arms.Not looking for show car finish.
Thanks.

That should be ok imo but I think 1200 might be better to get the 1000 scratches out. I hope you aren’t using Trizact 1500.

 

[Tungsten]

That should be ok imo but I think 1200 might be better to get the 1000 scratches out. I hope you aren’t using Trizact 1500.

Ok thx. This is what I have.
Crap no 1200. I’ll have to go get some.

 

[Tungsten]

Ok went to store got some 3m. P1200 -1500-2000 and 2500.
Kinda scary going with a power sander but gonna try it.

 

[Jim C]

I have no idea how well that paper works or if it gives you the same finish as the eagle and sunmight stuff. I just recommend you slow the sander down to atleast half speed and watch edges.

 

[dhutton01]

Ok went to store got some 3m. P1200 -1500-2000 and 2500.
Kinda scary going with a power sander but gonna try it.

Substituting random abrasives for the recommended abrasives isn’t really following the method imo.

 

[Jim C]

agreed. your kind of on your own to figure it all out at this point. 1500 grit isnt 1500 grit. it will probably work to a degree but it wont be the same process.

 

[Tungsten]

Substituting random abrasives for the recommended abrasives isn’t really following the method imo.

Agreed, but its what I could get today.It wasn't until I read this thread about using a DA.I was like ,why am I doing it by hand?

 

[dhutton01]

Tape your edges!

 

[Tungsten]

Tape your edges!

Oh you bet. I’ve read enough on here to know better.
Still lots to do by hand but the bigger flatter areas goes pretty quick with the da.

What’s the best way to attack the body lines? Part of me thinks just maybe a little 2000 or maybe just leave those? I don’t think anyone will tell that I didn’t sand those.

 

[dhutton01]

I would try to get by without sanding those if possible

 

[crashtech]

I've been known to sand close to edges with 3000, but it's not for the faint of heart.

 

[CK-2]

So no one starts out final sanding with 600 on a hard block to cut wave and peel?

 

[Jim C]

you wouldn't need it to cut peel but you would for urethane wave. to hand block with 600-1000 all comes down to how wavy you shot the clear and what you want the end result to be. only you can answer those questions for yourself and that will determine if you need to block or not.

when i do my woodgrain on something large and flat like a boat transom, the artwork will have thickness so that by itself adds a tone of texture to the clear. if i dont have the time to sand flat with 400 and reclear then what i will do is put a psa pad on a sander and use 600-800 on it to cut it flat with that then move to the rest of my normal method. psa pad will cut much flatter as you dont have the cushion of the velcro. hand blocking will still get it flatter but i am not given the time to do that. psa pad on a da is a happy medium and still fast.

 

[CK-2]

you wouldn't need it to cut peel but you would for urethane wave. to hand block with 600-1000 all comes down to how wavy you shot the clear and what you want the end result to be. only you can answer those questions for yourself and that will determine if you need to block or not.

when i do my woodgrain on something large and flat like a boat transom, the artwork will have thickness so that by itself adds a tone of texture to the clear. if i dont have the time to sand flat with 400 and reclear then what i will do is put a psa pad on a sander and use 600-800 on it to cut it flat with that then move to the rest of my normal method. psa pad will cut much flatter as you dont have the cushion of the velcro. hand blocking will still get it flatter but i am not given the time to do that. psa pad on a da is a happy medium and still fast.

Thanks for the reply. This is on an old panel wagon that has large flat sides and the clear has been applied for a few years. It’s universal clear. So it’s not fresh soft clear.

 

[ksungela]

I start with 600. So much faster IMO, but you have to have enough clear thickness to work with, otherwise it'll take longer when you burn through. Reading about other show car painters, they start with 600 too.

 

[Jim C]

universal still buffs easily down the road and fully cured. whatever you decide to do just take it to 8000 since its old and it should buff really easy. not sure how many coats you have on there but if starting with 600 you will need quite a few to not cut through.