SS Metallic

firewall listed above, will do dash and inner doors, nothing else in cab, no inner fenders.
So if I go with 3 gal total BC then 3 gal CC also?
 
BBPanel said:
firewall listed above, will do dash and inner doors, nothing else in cab, no inner fenders.
So if I go with 3 gal total BC then 3 gal CC also?
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I would go 2 gallons to start. I'm assuming you are not painting it all at once. Spray some then see where I stand. 2 gallons SPI Universal makes 4 gallons RTS so that would be where I would start. If you are spraying 4 or 5 coats (so that you can buff) then maybe you will need a third gallon.
 
Two gallons base is a good number as Chris says. Don’t cut yourself short. I’m happy to have some base left over in case of a repair down the road. Metallics can be hard to match.

I agree 3 gallons clear. You are going to use a lot of material.

Chad at Autorod Technologies can set you up with some Motobase base and it’s decent quality for a fair price.

Don
 
You have yet to state,
The Color.......
Metallic SS,
Light colors are considerably more difficult with Silver topping the List.
Dark colors are quite easily pulled off with excellent results.
Gun Technique is Critical !!
Flop,Striping, Mottling and Coverage are just a few of the Hazzards involved painting Any metallic.
Think I'd rather do Kandy than a Silver metallic.
I would Always shoot Chromabase metallic or basically the Top line bases metallic. You get what you Pay for.
I tried Nason,Omni,other value line stuff. I really tried, hard and Never got a respectable outcome except with Dark colors which by nature,are easy.
Just curious what the color is which can effect the Advice given as well.
 
Color is a 2020 GM Satin Steel Metallic. Pic of a test I did and a pic of the firewall, both SS. I did the firewall first and separate because I wanted to put the body back on the chassis and then do the rest of the vehicle. If I'm going to repaint the firewall in BC/CC I either need to do it separately again or just wait and do the entire body - but I was hoping to free up some space by putting the body back on.

20211201_134505.jpg20211201_152425.jpg20211208_130737.jpg
 
Modern basecoats even the silver is easy these days. That would be a hard color to spray in SS. Looks like you are doing a good job though. But it would be better to do it BC/CC like we've said. Bonus is BC/CC is much more easily repaired than a SS. Something to keep in mind if you plan on keeping it and driving it.
 
dhutton01 said:
Two gallons base is a good number as Chris says. Don’t cut yourself short. I’m happy to have some base left over in case of a repair down the road. Metallics can be hard to match.

I agree 3 gallons clear. You are going to use a lot of material.

Chad at Autorod Technologies can set you up with some Motobase base and it’s decent quality for a fair price.

Don
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Old Buzzard from the tri 5 board here:
I have a 55 sedan that's going metallic single color B/C, in a dark maroon.
It will include engine compartment, dash and all the interior trim.
I see your 55 in the avatar, and am assuming you did the work on it.
Might you suggest a ballpark qty for paint and clear?
TIA,
Chuck
 
Chuck L said:
Old Buzzard from the tri 5 board here:
I have a 55 sedan that's going metallic single color B/C, in a dark maroon.
It will include engine compartment, dash and all the interior trim.
I see your 55 in the avatar, and am assuming you did the work on it.
Might you suggest a ballpark qty for paint and clear?
TIA,
Chuck
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It was a few years ago. I am thinking 2.5- 3 gallons ready to spray base and 4 gallons ready to spray clear. I used PPG DBC base and euro clear. 3 coats of base and 4 coats clear. Sounds like a lot but that is my recollection. Double check using the 8 ounces per panel per coat.

Maybe one of the pros can offer an estimate.

Don
 
dhutton01 said:
It was a few years ago. I am thinking 2.5- 3 gallons ready to spray base and 4 gallons ready to spray clear. I used PPG DBC base and euro clear. 3 coats of base and 4 coats clear. Sounds like a lot but that is my recollection. Double check using the 8 ounces per panel per coat.

Maybe one of the pros can offer an estimate.

Don
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Don, thanks for the feedback.
 
DanMcG said:
Does that estimate hold true for primer too? If so I'm not using nearly enough. I was shooting 3-4 for fenders and doors and I think 6 oz for short bed bedsides.
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It’s a rough rule of thumb. Not a precise estimate. I’m sure it’s intentionally on the high side for safety.

What kind of primer are you referring to? Epoxy? I know reduced epoxy will use less than that rule in my experience.

Need one of the pros to weigh in. I actually got the rule from one of the pros here.

Don
 
dhutton01 said:
What kind of primer are you referring to? Epoxy?
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Yes 1:1 epoxy. I'm not concerned since I have multiple coats on most of the panels from doing my blocking with the epoxy.
As a rule of thumb,I think it's a good one, you'll be on the safe side and won't come up short.
For what it's worth, looking at my notes, I averaged 3oz on doors, 4 oz on fenders, 5-6oz on the roof panel and 6 oz on bedsides.
 
DanMcG said:
Yes 1:1 epoxy. I'm not concerned since I have multiple coats on most of the panels from doing my blocking with the epoxy.
As a rule of thumb,I think it's a good one, you'll be on the safe side and won't come up short.
For what it's worth, looking at my notes, I averaged 3oz on doors, 4 oz on fenders, 5-6oz on the roof panel and 6 oz on bedsides.
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That rule doesn’t apply to reduced epoxy imho. It goes on very thin. Probably 4 ounces per panel per coat would be my guess.

I would call reduced epoxy, sealer, not primer. :)

Don
 
This would be the best time to get a mill Guage if your so inclined,the initial bare metal up,if actual build is the concern.
This way you actually Know, generally,from the start what you end up with at each stage.
In reality do we 'really' know after all the sanding done before the next product?
 
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