SPI Epoxy with 1.0 Minigun

[SBOhio]

Restoring an 1890's sulkey. I've got all the parts glass beaded after talking with Barry on the process last year. I'm getting ready to primer the parts with an inexpensive minigun I picked up and have read issues with getting primer thru these small 1.0 guns. Any suggestions how much to reduce the epoxy and on gun setup? Is there a point of reducing to far? New to the forum and painting. Painted a couple of panels with a std. gun and had good results. I've read and learned alot on the forum and appreciate any help.

 

[Senile Old Fart]

I haven't had any problems using a Finex 100 w/ 1.0 tip shooting epoxy without reducing.

 

[curt b]

I restore/ build a lot of horse carriages and the epoxy is the best primer for that. I wouldn't reduce the epoxy because of being small metal parts the primer tends to pull away from the edges, 2 coats unreduced before any filling is always best in my opinion. Should spray fine out of a 1.0 tip, might have to turn fluid nob way out.

 

[SBOhio]

I will give it a try. Curt, Do you epoxy your bolts on your restorations? I believe mine were black oxide originally. Several have forged heads. It's all gone now after bead blasting and I'm looking for the best way to protect them. I didn't expect to find someone with carriage experience here!

 

[curt b]

I use epoxy on everything, You can use ospho first but since I started using spi epoxy I don't use it anymore. Since I started using spi epoxy I don't use anything else. The epoxy is the best for wood too. U can dip you're bolts and smaller thing in epoxy to get a thicker coating you just need to let it dry a few more days, but I normally am working on other part while their drying so it usually works out. If you need new parts Whitmer coach in pennsylvannia has most or they can tell you where you can get them, and their just like the original, their amish and they still take pride in their work not any cheap reproductions.

 

[SBOhio]

View attachment 3158
I'm trying to settle on a color a topcoat color scheme. Considering Black on iron and Red on wood. The car was all black except the wheels were the original red. When I stripped it there was red underneath everything. Do you know it they used red primer back then, or could this have been the original color?
James at SPI set me up with black base/clearcoat. Do you have any suggestion on how far if any to sand and buff the clear and still have an age appropiate look?
I found a amish guy to make a broken leaf spring this weekend. Thanks for the part reference I know I'll need one.

- - - Updated - - -

View attachment 3158
I'm trying to settle on a color a topcoat color scheme. Considering Black on iron and Red on wood. The car was all black except the wheels were the original red. When I stripped it there was red underneath everything. Do you know it they used red primer back then, or could this have been the original color?
James at SPI set me up with black base/clearcoat. Do you have any suggestion on how far if any to sand and buff the clear and still have an age appropiate look?
I found a amish guy to make a broken leaf spring this weekend. Thanks for the part reference I know I'll need one.

- - - Updated - - -

Just learning the pic attachment deal. Not sure why it posted twice. Any way heres the pic I wanted to post.

 

[curt b]

On a typical horse carriage the body will be one color and shafts, frame and wheels will be another and a cart will all be the same color. Depends on when and who built it as to if any or what color primer was used. normally a single stage paint is used like acrylic enamel or polyurethane, never base/cleared one, because of the extra steps and I don't think the base will stick to the wood as good as single stage and the price of extra paint. Also single stage seems to have a deeper look to it and looks more age appropriate.