spi epoxy after alkaline electrolytic dip?

[matt d]

Hello all,
I am in the early stages of restoration/restomod of my long-owned 66 Mustang. It sounds like using the set of SPI products (epoxy primer, 2k primer, then bright white) is a good way to go from what I have heard and read.

I have a question regarding compatibility of the SPI epoxy with a dipping process that I am strongly considering to clean slate my old friend. A place not too far from me (Auto Restoration Depot) does a process called Revivation which dips the chassis in an alkaline electrolytic solution and uses electric DC current to pull off the rust. Then they apply a water based rust inhibitor to prevent flash rust.

So my question is whether or not there is any specific incompatibility with this process and SPI epoxy? Would a thorough water rinse followed by use of SPI wax and grease remover be sufficient? Or could there be potential issues with unneutralized basic solution similar to the unneutralized acid concerns. In speaking with the company, they say they just wipe clean and spray with DP90.

I appreciate your wisdom.

Thanks,
Matt

 

[chevman]

I use that process and have no problems with it, it does an excellent job of cleaning everything off the metal. I don't trust just water to clean off the rust inhibitor, but you should use another alkaline product, which most soap is---Dawn dish liquid would be fine. I use ZEP industrial purple cleaner and degreaser because it has a ph over 12 to help stop the possibility of flash rust, but it doesn't happen very easy after this type dipping process anyway.

This cleaner is completely soluble in hot or cold water, rinses easily, and will remove heavy grease with just a little scrubbing, and a couple applications. It is a strong alkaline cleaner, so I only use it on bare metal.
http://www.homedepot.com/p/ZEP-1-gal-Industrial-Purple-Degreaser-ZU0856128/100047759
Its available in the store.

 

[matt d]

Excellent info chevman, thank you. And that cleaner in your link is available at my local Home Depot, so that sounds good too.

I have never seen a car dipped with that DC current / alkaline process in person, but it sure sounds like a great way to get to all the difficult to (mechanically) reach surfaces to ditch the rust. It sounds like it will not have the same downsides as an old school acid dip, assuming you properly clean, prime, seam-seal, etc all newly cleaned surfaces. I have had this car since high school (20+ years) and would love to finally stop blurring my eyes at all the little rust spots creeping in.

 

[chevman]

Unlike acid, they can also do spring steel, aluminum, cast iron, and other metals without damaging them. I expected this to be line of sight only and I don't know how, but they can clean under brackets, enclosed areas with limited access, and a pretty good job of pulling rust out of seams.

This was done by the electrolysis method, although the seat wasn't that bad to begin with.

The dark areas are clean also, its just where the rust was, and when sanded you can tell that the rust is gone.

If the part only has surface rust, it really comes out impressive

As you can see, all it does is clean, so you have to put a sand scratch profile on the metal.

I wasn't worried too much about this seat because it was bare metal from the factory, so I just put a clear coat on it.

 

[matt d]

That's beautiful. Thanks for posting the pics. It's giving me more confidence in the process..

-Matt

 

[chevman]

Nothing wrong with the system, but like anything else, the person doing it can screw it up. If you were using the same shop that I use, then I would say you will not have a problem, so I would do some checking on the shop you plan to use. Its probably your only option for this service without traveling---possibly quite a ways.

 

[mitch_04]

Out of curiosity, what is cost on something like that? The seat and/or car body.

I doubt there is anyone near me that does it, but looks like a great way to go!

- - - Updated - - -

Out of curiosity, what is cost on something like that? The seat and/or car body.

I doubt there is anyone near me that does it, but looks like a great way to go!

 

[chevman]

The cost depends on the size, for that seat bottom it was $50, car bodies start at $1400. Of course, these prices are what one shop charges.

 

[matt d]

The place near me in FL charges ~3000 for a mustang body including doors, hood, etc. Not cheap, but still much cheaper than a new body shell (~16k) if you want to start clean.