Single stage paint recommendations...

Mottling is localized clumping of metallic from spraying too wet. Other metallic issues result from low quality reducer that is too fast and from improper overlap or too high/too low air pressure.

IMO most paint including clear is not better than the 80's/90's. Safer for you and the environment yes. Not necessarily better. Some of the best clears and SS were made back then like PPG 2001, as well as original Imron which was as good as it gets.

If you are going to spray a metallic then use BC/CC. Simple as that. Solid colors either BC/CC or SS.
 
Chris_Hamilton said:
Mottling is localized clumping of metallic from spraying too wet. Other metallic issues result from low quality reducer that is too fast and from improper overlap or too high/too low air pressure.

IMO most paint including clear is not better than the 80's/90's. Safer for you and the environment yes. Not necessarily better. Some of the best clears and SS were made back then like PPG 2001, as well as original Imron which was as good as it gets.

If you are going to spray a metallic then use BC/CC. Simple as that. Solid colors either BC/CC or SS.
Click to expand...

That is without a doubt the best use of words to help me visualize what mottling is.

Well done.
 
Chris_Hamilton said:
Mottling is localized clumping of metallic from spraying too wet. Other metallic issues result from low quality reducer that is too fast and from improper overlap or too high/too low air pressure.

IMO most paint including clear is not better than the 80's/90's. Safer for you and the environment yes. Not necessarily better. Some of the best clears and SS were made back then like PPG 2001, as well as original Imron which was as good as it gets.

If you are going to spray a metallic then use BC/CC. Simple as that. Solid colors either BC/CC or SS.
Click to expand...
maybe that old imron made me think i knew what i was doing LOL
 
gonna put a coat of single stage only to the front of these wheels. couple questions....
it shouldnt need any thinning right?
it wont take alot of paint. i seem to be having a brain fart, for 4-1 ratio, 12oz paint would take 3oz activator? this will make 15oz sprayable and should be plenty. i know 16oz and 4oz is right but i hate to waste it. dont think it will take all that.
 
Reducing is going to depend on how it sprays......I would do a test panel before assuming. SPI SS most say they don't reduce it....I had to and it made a world of difference. Nothing in the TDS either. I am only a hobbyist but it seems it is easier to adjust to a thinner viscosity as a thick viscosity you limit out fast. If that makes sense. But then again, I have a difference of opinion on both SS Metallic and BC/CC things in this thread....:eek:
 
shot the ss a couple hours ago. it lays out well i thought. i hate that little door jamb gun and i think its done any way now. leaking air. damned thing just dont fit my hand. i figured it made sense to use it for in between the spokes, but honestly i think i could do it fine with a full size gun.
i was reminded of some thing Chris said, and hes right. i really dont even look at the reg, i adjust until it shoots to suit me.
 
Is Motorcryl a chip resistant? Thinking about how it would work on a frame . Only paint I have used has been a SS Nason Fast Dry for spring pans, swaybar,links etc. for the car I am working on now. (I am a first timer on painting)
 
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