ropeing in glass

O

old sarge

Member
I sure could use a few tips on the best way to rope in a windshield that has to have the mouldings in place in the rubber before installation. My glass guy won't do it he says to easy to break. The last one I did was on a 70 something dodge truck years ago. I broke 2 and the supplier said I was a dumb ass.They sent thier expert over and he broke one. Next one we got in.What's the best lube ect? Thanks
 
I would use a new gasket and no lube. The trick is to know exactly where to position the glass when you start, so find a way to lay the glass in the opening without the gasket and square it up, make sure the glass fits the opening then put a mark on the glass and the metal, so you know exactly where to lay it with the gasket on, because once you start pulling then you can't move the glass side to side. Lay the rope all the way around and leave the two ends loosely tied at the bottom center. The rope should just be big enough to pull on without breaking. Set the glass with the gasket on the pinch weld in the opening with the bottom center lined up with the mark and pull the rope evenly side to side with someone applying gentle pressure out side.

If the glass fits the car and you use a new gasket and position the glass right, then there is no reason for it to break.
 
the cord must be well used . new rope sucks. i soak it in dawn soap with my hand when i get a new one. mine is at least 20 years old. the pinch weld needs to be cleaned and painted. get your trim lined up right by setting the rubber and trim without glass first. lube the pinch weld with dawn and also the rubber lip on the inside . if you have help they only need to keep it from falling out, if they push it's going to break. let the rope pull it in. do not pull backwards on the rope , it will rip the rubber. pull outward on it to pull the lip up and out. once it is set gently slap the glass to set it .
 
centering the trim and glass is all important. the rope will pull the glass in and break it if not centered. another reason for the soap. it will allow the glass to move a little. putting it in dry is asking for it . at first there is very little pressure on the rubber but once you get going the rubber is harder to pull up and over the pinch weld . keep some qtips handy to dip in soap in case you get to a tight area.
 
This was a helpful thread. Now I will have an idea what to do the next time a throw a piece of firewood through the back window of my truck.

I think Shine should start a thread entitled: Everything I do with Dawn Dish Soap except the dishes.
 
I bought a set of reproduction glass for a 57 chevy HT and everything was fine except the back window. I know the opening was alright because there was no problem with the old glass that came out of it, but I used these little spacers to set the glass in to check it for fit to the opening before trying to install it.


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They were cut on the table saw from oak. Two of them are spaced out on the bottom pinch weld and the glass set on them, then hold one in the middle of the glass on top as it is lowered in place. Two spacers on top would be better, but I lost one of them.
Marking the stainless trim would help, but the tri 5s only have trim attached to the rubber on the top, and the mark is really useful on the bottom of the glass because it gets set in place first.
 
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