recommendations on prepping engine for paint

S

sellersrodshop

o.k., i have this engine for a project i'm fixing to start. it went thru the fire last year & survived, minus sensors, injectors, hoses etc for the EFI that were ruined. i'm shelving the efi & going carb for the time being & proceeding on. what is the best method for prepping a used engine for paint? this one has very little oil/grease residue & is mainly covered in surface rust due to not being painted from the factory. i've started going over it a bit with wire brush & wire wheels on a drill, but thought someone might have a better idea.

if anyone is interested, this is a GT-40P 5.0 that will be hooked up to a t-5 5 speed, narrowed 8.8 rear & shoehorned into a 66 triumph TR-4. should be a fun ride!

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I would spray it with purple power or some degrease first. Then knotted wire wheel on a grinder and drill. Then degrease again. Then 80 grit on a die grinder. Get the tight spots by hand. You have to scratch everything up, because the wire wheel leaves the surface too smooth. Once its all shiney, Spray on solvent based w and g remover and wipe it down. Then use waterborne w and g remover. Then epoxy.

Disclaimer: there are probably better ways, but I have done this with numerous engines and tractor castings with satisfactory results in my opinion.
 
I'd plug all the holes very well, degrease it, then use a hand held gravity type spot sand blaster (good control) to take off all the corrosion, change the rear main and front seal before prime and paint, two coats of epoxy primer, then engine enamel or automotive singlestage urethane. Some metal tape or duck tape, rags, rubber plugs will work for the masking during the blasting. Pull the rockers arms off so all the valves are closed before you stuff rags in the ports and mask them, you can reset the valve lash before the valve covers get installed.
 
Could he also use BC/CC? I know less material the better but if your spraying a color that's not available in single stage you have to go bc/cc.
 
I am always afraid to sandblast assembled engines, so after degreasing, we use DX579 and red scotchbrite with a water rinse.
 
I have a similar setup in my mustang. Got the motor first and still had the C4 tranny. Putting the 5 speed behind it made it come alive! FYI not sure which ratios your T5 has but I tried a 3.89 gear in the beginning and first gear was useless unless you just wanted to destroy tires. Went to a 3.55 and it is much better!
 
sorry it took so long to reply, things got really busy here. i borrowed a borescope camera from the shop up the street & after an inspection, three cylinders got wet during the fire "hose down" so the motor will be coming apart. that sucks as the 5 other cylinders still show the crosshatching on the cylinder walls. assuming the 3 bad ones had the exhaust valves cracked open & water entered thru the exhaust ports. i guess now is the time for a cam change (e-303) while its being rebuilt.

i know all about the rear gears with a t-5. i'm planning something for this car in the 3.25-3.55 range, but even a 3.08 would be plenty. i'm also fixing to do a 4 wheel disc brake swap & t-5/ hydraulic clutch swap on my 69 mustang. all my t-5's are 3.35 first gear. the 2.95 gearset would be nice, but too expensive just to swap for that reason.
 
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