Problems with filler work. Lots of pictures

G

GLHX

image by -glhxturbo-

The quarter panel was replaced and welded like this. I guess they didn't want to take the back window out.
Thee was solvent pop all over the repair job.

image by -glhxturbo-

I put more welds in this area waiting for the metal to cool between welds. Then ground it downw and cleaned it well. I took out all the old filler work that was poorly done and decided to put in my own. Looking at the amount of filler they had on ther it wasn't enough. I sort of used it as a guide to start with and this was a mistake. I found it needing much more and spread further.

image by -glhxturbo-
Here is where my problem is. All those filler layers were put on weeks apart so they cured properly. They were also completely mixed. Some had more hardener than others. I'm still learning the amount of hardener to use. I've finally decided to run a bead 3/4 the way across my glob.
At first I had some that was under cured so I ground it all out and started over. I can't tell where to stop in that curve. It's pretty hard to get it right with all thenblocks I've tried. I've had best ouch with the round blocks. This is as close to perfect as I've done so far. At first I just filled in the welded area. The damage glues out further than that. The problem comes when I think I've got it perfect and run primer over it. It looks like a mess. Then I ran some high build on it and found many low spots.



image by -glhxturbo-

I think if I put some high build on this it would be fine....but I'm insure. There are many 80g scratches still in there and I don't want it to shrink on me


image by -glhxturbo-


image by -glhxturbo-

.........,,.,..,,,,......,

This is what I thought it would be like


image by -glhxturbo-
 
i cant tell when its done. ive probably added filler 5 or 6 times already.
sanded back down and added more. then put high build on it thinking it was done.
 
It looks like you are getting it. I use all kinds of crazy things for blocks in areas like that. sometimes I look all over the house for something to wrap sandpaper around to get a curve right. on a pillar like that I would go by feel and sand by hand but that is not the recommended way.

a couple of things I see is rust on the panels. I hope you got rid of all of it before you spread filler. also your welds need to be a bit hotter but all in all I think you are headed in the right direction. get it as good as you can and then leave it alone for a while and when you come back to it and you are still happy with it prime it again

I must have gone over things 20-30 times with filler before. you have to do what it takes
 
All that rust is long gone. And those welds were ground down. I put high build on it but it was too low.......so I took it back off because you can't fill over high build. The epoxy takes forever to cure and I have to keep the shop warn for 24 hours. I have to wait at least a week before I can get back to it. If I don't get it right the first time it takes a long time for me to try again. Those welds were just fill welds because the original was spaced out really far. The epoxy also doesn't build well so it hard for me to get it right
 
dura-block makes some nice hand pads & oddball shapes. A kit is cheaper than individual. careful when grinding welds that heat can build up also. Hence good penetration won't leave the weld so "proud". Looking good though!
 
For any beginners that see this.....this is what I've found

The filler is not spread far enough and feathered over the metal high spots....if they are high spots. Should be at least 3" past for good measure

The weld is close to the edge on the sail panel.....the filler should have been brought to the edge and feathered there.

It's been sanded too far down and there is too much of a defined line between the filler and the metal....I should have stopped when I hit metal and glazed

The putty was put over urethane primer. It would probably be fine. It is recommended that it be put over
Epoxy

Metal
Filler
Scuffed paint.
Not urethane primer.

I sprayed high build on it before it was done hoping primer would hide it......it will but it will shrink because I'm using it as filler and it's not supposed to be.

The sail panel has 80g scratches in it with epoxy over that. I'm taking the epoxy back off and re doing the filler work. Scratches should not be filled with primer over 80g.....180 at the least.....80G scratches should be filled in with glazing putty.

Using a hard sanding block instead of a blocking pad would have been better to bridge the gap on the flat panel

I need to remove most of it and start over.
I'm hoping from what ive learned I can get this done in one shot.
 
if you see the dent you sanded too far. i learned by always leaving a square .9 out of 10 take too much off each time. you also have to glaze the entire area each time. you cant spot filler .
 
I am not a big fan of durablocks for getting panels straight.
You may be pressing too hard on the block and flexing the panel. Use a coarse grit and change the paper as soon as it quits cutting to get the repair flat, skim the entire area as Shine said, then use guide coat and a finer grit to finish the repair.
 
[quote='68 coronet r/t;34724]i am not a big fan of durablocks for getting panels straight.
You may be pressing too hard on the block and flexing the panel. Use a coarse grit and change the paper as soon as it quits cutting to get the repair flat, skim the entire area as shine said, then use guide coat and a finer grit to finish the repair.[/quote]


^^^^^^^ 2x
 
That reminds me of one mistake I see new people make a lot, is to use sandpaper too much. It has to be sharp and free of gummy loading to work properly. You can whack it with a paint stick to help dislodge the loading, or blow it off with an air blower if your air is dry. The paper used to sand off the top layer of primer must be changed a lot, there is something about top layers of most products that is sticky and ruins sandpaper.
 
In using the hard block sanders. How do you do convex and concave surfaces. I tried it and it's sanding in just one spot on the sandpaper because it can't follow the contour of the metal. Especially on the fender flares and compound curves............I did lighten up on how hard I'm pressing and that's helping......but you are correct.....on the longer blocks they did flex in the middle some. Even in block sanding some basic primer I had to figure out how to get the durablock even

Some of what I did....and I don't know if it's right....was to use the sand paper to flex the durablock to hold its shape better

I do change the paper often and clean it very often with the red scotch Brite pad
 
i use the 1 in durablock . it flexes and works good on curves. it's about all i use on corvettes .
 
The long skinny one. 3/4 x 11?

That's the only one I didn't get because it's too skinny for my psa paper. If that's the same one were talking about
 
yes . i have a cabinet full of home made blocks. doing early corvette there are only a couple places to use a flat block. most of the time i am sculpting a car . i'm amazed at how much i use it . i start with it after i finish with 100 grit. i just wrap a sheet of paper around it and tear off pieces as they get worn . sandpaper is dirt cheap for the amount of work we ask of it. worn out paper wont cut anything straight . i'll use 2 sheets or more on a hood .

and it doesn't matter what block you use , you must control the cut even if by hand .
 
I know you only use epoxy. Why 100grit to start?
I was told 180 and anything less was very aggressive and would show sand scratches because nothing would fill it. It would shrink after several months because of bridging over the scratches....They were talking about 80g but 100 isn't far off.

Which leads me to a question.....when spraying solid black.....if the primer does shrink into the 80g. What does that do?sure it shows the scratches.....but are they always there? Never to be removed after the car is done?

I had a guy tell me all this body work process was very simple the other day. I find it rather complicated....so many short cuts, ways of doing things, and opinions it's easy to get lost in details that may not matter or may ruin your paint job.
 
That mig welding most likely shrunk the metal .I ALWAYS HAMMER AND DOLLY B4 FILLER WORK! Use a hacksaw blade to check level and spread your filler out at least 3 inches past the dent all the way around.For curves i use sections of pvc pipe.good luck keep at it! YOU will get it!
 
shine;34829 said:
yes . i have a cabinet full of home made blocks. doing early corvette there are only a couple places to use a flat block. most of the time i am sculpting a car . i'm amazed at how much i use it . i start with it after i finish with 100 grit. i just wrap a sheet of paper around it and tear off pieces as they get worn . sandpaper is dirt cheap for the amount of work we ask of it. worn out paper wont cut anything straight . i'll use 2 sheets or more on a hood .

and it doesn't matter what block you use , you must control the cut even if by hand .
Click to expand...

You should post up a picture of these home made blocks.. Curious!
 
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