phix

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tininjun67

Anyone use this stuff? My local paint rep restores tractors and he uses it in lieu of blasting. He shoots 2k over it. I couldn't help but buy some spi epoxy as I wanted a better foundation. The car I'm doing has some decent rust. The more I read here the more I change my mind. I'm now straying away from the phix and just blasting the rust and hitting it with 80 grit afterward.
 
They say Safely Replaces Hazardous Acid Preps on their web page, but their MSDS says it contains phosphoric acid and zinc phosphate.
 
There's so many areas of life where these companies make tons of money off a product that says "1 step" "no hassle" "easy to do" "eliminates work". To me that means run away, the right way is almost always the hardest way initially, but ends up being the least work in the long run.
 
I do not know why a person cannot use them, just do not use them and leave it on the metal before painting. Keep it wet, lots of clear water, then dry. No phospho film that way. Just like using Naval Jelly, same basic stuff, phosphoric acid and it has been okay to use for almost ever.
With no film on the metal the epoxy will stick to it like glue :)
 
I agree with SOF, any phosphoric acid product needs to be washed off while wet but I still go over the surface with an abrasive just to make sure tooth is good. I seen way too many peeling and blistering problems years ago when metal conditioners and rust removers weren't used properly.
 
I think that's where my problem lies. I absolutely hate getting a car wet. you see me with a hose in my hand you better get a parka cause hell is about to freeze over. I may have to bite the bullet if I'm going to use this stuff. About all of the surfaces facing up on this car had rust come up through the paint from years of sitting outside virtually unprotected. freaking thing is a convertible no less.
 
tininjun67;27608 said:
...I absolutely hate getting a car wet. you see me with a hose in my hand you better get a parka cause hell is about to freeze over...
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If you know this about yourself it's really best to stick to mechanical means of removing rust. SPI doesn't recommend any acid treatments anyway.

Like everyone says, acid treatments require very generous water rinsing.
 
tininjun67;27597 said:
I'm now straying away from the phix and just blasting the rust and hitting it with 80 grit afterward.
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You might want to explain a little more about your blasting procedure before you do it.
 
I have a pressurized pot blaster and a blast cabinet, usually run them at 90 psi. I use black beauty in the cabinet and fine silica blasting sand in the pressure pot. The panels will obviously need to be done with the pot. I know better than to shoot straight at the panel, but rather to "scrape" the paint/rust off with the blast sand. here's a shot of the car ATTACH=CONFIG]2183[/ATTACH] CAM00356.jpg
 
I sure hope you are wearing a good respirator and no one is near where you are blasting when using "fine silica blasting sand".
The risk of Silicosis is not worth saving a few dollars on media imho.
 
Shine is the resident expert on blasting and I'm sure he will be on soon to offer some suggestions on your blasting procedure.
 
I'm out in the country, in Texas, where its usually windy. I blast during the day when no one is around, and yes, I wear my respirator. I want to grow old and healthy to see my kids' kids.
 
I also want to give a quick thanks for those chiming in. I'm a mechanic by trade but spent the last seven years in a restoration shop. It's interesting to see the stuff our old paint rep (big name salesman from a big name paint co) used to tell us vs what I've read here. I never could believe a word he said because the minute a new product came out he was like a flag in the wind. I'm up till all hours of the night reading the threads here. good stuff.
 
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