Paint disaster in oregon

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dougotio

Paint disaster in Oregon

I have tried 3 different forums to find this answer. I am sure it is there some where, but I am so frustrated I can hardly see. I have had good luck talking to Barry on the phone. He is very helpful and full of information, but I have a hard time processing the information he gives me because I am hard of hearing and I am a bit nervous to be talking to the “owner” of the SPI company. That is why I am going to the written word for information now. BTW, I may post this question on one or both of the other forums.

First A little back ground...I took my 1989 Dodge D-350 pick-up to bare mettle.
Next I did all of my body work....De-Badged / welded & filled holes, nothing over 1/8-” deep. It looked good to me....A NU-BEE:)

I used the proper W&G remover then applied 2 coats of SPI epoxy primer with proper wait time between coats.

The next day I applied one “piss-coat” of Nasson urethane SS base in a white color.

My problem now is....
I thought I could get away without applying the all ready purchased SPI 2k regular build primer sealer and block sanding which was my plan originally.

The “paint disaster” that I speak of is that I regret not using the sanding sealer and block sanding..
The truck panels are so wavy that I can not let anyone see this project. I have all summer invested in getting it to this point and I “sold out” at the last minute.

I feel like CRAP over this and welcome any adjectives that anyone feels they need to pin on me:).

My question now is How do I get the truck back to primer so that I can use use more filler and block sand like I should have done in the first place?
The obvious answer is to strip it down to mettle again and start over, but, I was hoping I could prep the “piss-coat” of white SS urethane by SCUFFING and not taking it all off.
I will however, do what I have to do to get myself out of this hole I find myself in.

I was always told that "when/if you find yourself in a hole “STOP DIGGING” so that is what I am doing.
I am ready to “pay the price” what ever that might be, lesson learned!

Again I want to say that Barry has been there for me all that way but that it was my decision to not do the “block sanding” that was so needed.

My Bad, NU-BEE, (be gentle:)
Doug
 
Just let it dry (overnight if you have time) and sand it off. It should sand pretty easy. Once you get it back down to primer, clean it with wax and grease and reprime. I would put couple of coat of epoxy on it, fix the bodywork issues and then 2k the thing. I would guide coat each panel and block. And once you think you have it perfect guide and block it again. Take it a panel at a time, so you dont get ahead of yourself. Another trick that I learned to check your panels is to take a paper towel, (the ones that you use to apply and remove wax and grease work great) and go over the whole panel with a flat hand. Rub your hand vertical and do it again horizontal.

Chuck
 
Idunnit;40461 said:
Just let it dry (overnight if you have time) and sand it off. It should sand pretty easy. Once you get it back down to primer, clean it with wax and grease and reprime. I would put couple of coat of epoxy on it, fix the bodywork issues and then 2k the thing. I would guide coat each panel and block. And once you think you have it perfect guide and block it again. Take it a panel at a time, so you dont get ahead of yourself. Another trick that I learned to check your panels is to take a paper towel, (the ones that you use to apply and remove wax and grease work great) and go over the whole panel with a flat hand. Rub your hand vertical and do it again horizontal.

Chuck
Click to expand...

Thanks Chuck, the base has been on since last Friday and I have set the truck out into the Sun for the last few days. What is the best way to get the base off? I used stripper before. I only need to do the areas that need more filler correct? Then again if I am going to put new epoxy primer over everything I guess I need to get it all off..yikes!
Thanks again
Doug
 
I'm not big on strippers. I use a mud hog and 40-80 grit to strip paint. I would also prob knock it all off, and guidecoat and reguidecoat. Unfortunately as is in someone's signature around here "its custom sanding, not custom paint"

If you go ahead and block before you start sanding it should help your problem areas really pop out

We all make mistakes, comes with learning something new, an expert has failed more times than the rookie has tried.
 
bomccorkle;40465 said:
I'm not big on strippers. I use a mud hog and 40-80 grit to strip paint. I would also prob knock it all off, and guidecoat and reguidecoat. Unfortunately as is in someone's signature around here "its custom sanding, not custom paint"

If you go ahead and block before you start sanding it should help your problem areas really pop out

We all make mistakes, comes with learning something new, an expert has failed more times than the rookie has tried.
Click to expand...

Thanks bomccorkle,
I have a DA sander but not a "hog".
I would also prob knock it all off, and guidecoat and reguidecoat.
Do you mean to "knock it off" to the Epoxy primer or to bare mettle?
I am going to need to apply more evercoat rage filler to continue and get back on track before I lay down the 2K primer sealer.
If you go ahead and block before you start sanding it should help your problem areas really pop out
Do you mean I can prep and go over the paint (BC)?

I want to understand fully this time.

Thanks,
Doug
 
Back to primer, no need to go past that. If you block before you start stripping you can make a mental note of your major areas, make sense?
 
bomccorkle;40467 said:
Back to primer, no need to go past that. If you block before you start stripping you can make a mental note of your major areas, make sense?
Click to expand...

Yes, that makes sense. Just block the BC to see where the "big" work is needed, then fill and block those areas then sand the rest of the panels to Epoxy and apply the 2-k primer and continue to block.
Is that correct?
Doug
 
Block the base to see the major flaws. Then strip the base off, then fill and reblock, then 2k prime and reblock.

I block all panels, just a once over with 80g on the file board before I strip them, then I know in my head where the major problem is before I strip. Its hard to see flaws when things are multiple colors/shades, or when its bare steel again.

The quick block at first is just so when its stripped you can say in your head, oh there was a big wave in the bodyline, or a ding back here, or this countour wasn't right.

Make better sense?

- - - Updated - - -

Also since I've muddled things up a bit, remember filler only goes on filler or EPOXY primer.
 
bomccorkle;40471 said:
Block the base to see the major flaws. Then strip the base off, then fill and reblock, then 2k prime and reblock.

I block all panels, just a once over with 80g on the file board before I strip them, then I know in my head where the major problem is before I strip. Its hard to see flaws when things are multiple colors/shades, or when its bare steel again.

The quick block at first is just so when its stripped you can say in your head, oh there was a big wave in the bodyline, or a ding back here, or this countour wasn't right.

Make better sense?

- - - Updated - - -

Also since I've muddled things up a bit, remember filler only goes on filler or EPOXY primer.
Click to expand...

bomccorkle,

Much more clear now.

Another thought...I think I will use "bed liner" on the rocker area that is about 25% of the side of the truck. Am I correct in remembering that the "bed Liner" people only want/need a scuff of the base to meet their specs? I am thinking of using the "u-pol Rapter" product.
Thanks again
Doug
 
definitely agree with using that white to your advantage. Its not the best color to find problems until you get down to the darker primer. Knock the gloss off with some heavy paper and then use it as a scratch coat and find your problems.
 
Yes scuff base for bedliner. I use Barry's bedliner myself and it's good stuff, Ive just started playing with reducing it to make it flow out a bit more, I'm an even bigger fan now.
 
anotheridiot;40488 said:
definitely agree with using that white to your advantage. Its not the best color to find problems until you get down to the darker primer. Knock the gloss off with some heavy paper and then use it as a scratch coat and find your problems.
Click to expand...

Please define"scratch coat."

BTW, I know what a "scratch coat" is when stuccoing a house:)
Thanks again,
Doug
 
a very light coating of usually a darker color. The color stays in the pinholes or scratches when you block it off the car. When you use a long block or file board and keep it flat on the surface, you will sand down to primer and see the color that is left on the bad spots.

If you use the white that you sprayed on the car, the low spots will be white, the high spots will be sanded to primer.
 
I was a big fan of Barrys Bedliner too, but only got to use it once before SPI pulled it.
 
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