orange peel

D

deto326

I am getting ready to put on a coat of reduced SPI epoxy and will scuffing I seen some areas of what looks like orange peel.
I can see it but I can't feel it. I have enclosed some pic's . Do I need to block all of this out til I can't see it anymore or put on some more 2k and block? Any and all recommendations appreciated.
Thanks Dave orange peel 002.jpg

orange peel 003.jpg

orange peel 005.jpg

orange peel 012.jpg
 
I hit it with 400 on a D.A. with interface pad before sealing , and if your thinning it out 1:1:1 you might even do 600 wet sand.

Pics look like you did multiple light coats? That can make a really fine orange peel look
 
Airbrusharthart;37663 said:
I hit it with 400 on a D.A. with interface pad before sealing , and if your thinning it out 1:1:1 you might even do 600 wet sand.

Pics look like you did multiple light coats? That can make a really fine orange peel look
Click to expand...

Negative on the multiple coats it is more like a rookie that doesn't know what he is doing. I thought it looked good until I started sanding it then I started seeing the orange peel. This is the Omni PPG that I shot with the DeVilbiss Starting line. I got the SPI epoxy and reducer today but have not received my Iwata LPH 400 yet look for it in a couple of days. Hope I do much better with it. Like your car is that a 55 or 56? do you still have it?
Dave
 
I see well I hope the new gun works out for ya. :)

It is actually a car i did for someone 56 Merc Montclair I just started a thread on the restoration im gonna keep updating it check it out
 
I guidecoat then use the interface on the DA. It may not be necessary but I figure better safe than stripping fresh paint...
 
bomccorkle;37666 said:
I guidecoat then use the interface on the DA. It may not be necessary but I figure better safe than stripping fresh paint...
Click to expand...

Bo I tried block sanding the epoxy and the sand paper loads up really quick and starts scratching the surface is there a trick that I don't know about? I don't know if its this Omni epoxy that may not be as sand able as the SPI or what. I tried wet sanding an area on the 1/4 panel with 600 and seemed to do better without loading up but taking a really long time to sand the orange peel out I may have to sand with 320 then resand with 600. I can't seem to find any PSA 600 sand paper do you know a source?

Dave
 
Omni sands awful. wet sand is best if its clogging really bad, they do sell wet/dry paper up to at least 220 your local paint shop should have it and as far as that goes the more of the Omni you take off the better, your finish job is only as strong as the weakest link
 
I may be wrong but I believe that interface pads only come in hook it, if need be I would step down to 320, and if that doesn't fly then to 220, you still have 2k and sealer to go am I correct?

You're just making sure you have a good surface for your final rounds of blocking.

If I'm right that there is more 2k and blocking to come then no need to resand back up to 600.

If its going to be a solid color the general consensus between the guys here seems to be that 320 is fine enough. I go to 400 for solids, 600 for pearls and metallics.

Also a lot of guys on here like the 1:1:1 method for sealer, but I have problems with runs, I only reduce about 1:1:1/2, if anything pops up in the sealer coat(I always seem to find a least a bug or few specs of dust) then I also interface pad that spot a few hours after application then on to base.

And don't worry, barry's epoxy is WAY more sandable, I've been thinking of doing away with 2k and using epoxy in its place.

Also in a pinch I have ran the 3m red stuff wet, it worked out, maybe not textbook but it managed.
 
Actually I have put on 1 coat of epoxy and 1 coat of 2k, blocked the 2k and had it looking good but broke through the 2k to the first coat of epoxy and then I put another coat of epoxy to get everything the same shade or color. Probably screwed up I should have just waited and sealed with SPI but any way this is where I'm at now and it might be best as airbrusharthart said I may jut need to get aggressive with it now and take off as much as I can or at lest all the orange peel is out then see where I am.
Dave

- - - Updated - - -

Actually I have put on 1 coat of epoxy and 1 coat of 2k, blocked the 2k and had it looking good but broke through the 2k to the first coat of epoxy and then I put another coat of epoxy to get everything the same shade or color. Probably screwed up I should have just waited and sealed with SPI but any way this is where I'm at now and it might be best as airbrusharthart said I may jut need to get aggressive with it now and take off as much as I can or at lest all the orange peel is out then see where I am.
Dave
 
If I were to go that route, the aggressive one, I'd sand back out with 220, then when smooth, if I hit any steel I'd spot in SPI epoxy, then I'd spray a coat or 2 of 2k and reblock, then 1 coat of 2k then guidecoat and the interface pad, then seal and base.

Don't fret, the first all over is terrifying, and a pain, but after the over spray settles and you see it in base coat the first time, or even all together in sealer the first time it suddenly wasn't that bad.....

Also be careful with the DA while clearing away the old stuff, it will make a flat panel not flat anymore.
 
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