New Guy - Jeep Project - Looking for Advice

K

kmkommes

Teach me to paint in less than 1 week please. So here goes my first post. I want to paint my jeep and I want to get it complete in a rather short time frame (couple of weeks). I usually research until my eyes are sore but this time I will be asking for a little help. I found this website which shows I've at least done a little research. I am not looking for a full blown show car quality job. I simply want color on my vehicle and want to gain a little bit of experience doing so. I am lucky and will be able to rent a paint booth for the weekend which will save me from setting something up in my garage. The only painting experience is spraying a few gallons of primer and single stage on chassis parts in my garage. I'm looking for some quick advice to make sure I am set up with the correct equipment and materials.

I think my gun is a Anest Iwata LPH400-LV with a orange and silver cap in 1.3 and I think I have another silver cap in 1.4. I bought it brand new 4-5 years ago and have only used it a couple of times.

I will separate this into two parts. Body Color and Other/Black.

Body Color
The jeep will be getting a color change. I do not want to go down to bare metal. I don't have time and I'm sure whatever paint I put on it will outlast the body before I change something. There are a couple of small spots where bare metal is showing. the jeep is 99% rust free. There are a couple of small dents that need repair on the doors.

The following items need to be painted body color and will require NO tape work. They can easily be removed from the vehicle and painted separately.
Grill
Hood (brand new in some sort of black primer)
Cowl
Windshield Frame (no glass)
Tailgate
PS & DS Door
Door Hinges
Hood Hinges
Windshield Hinges

The Body/Tub will obviously need to be taped. Not much body color will show since the sides are being covered up. This is the largest item that needs paint but wont use much more paint than a single door. I was thinking of painting everything separate since it would be easier to tape or not tape this way.

Questions
1a) If I do sand down to bare metal in spots is it ok to shoot with 2k regular primer or is it absolutely necessary to shoot Epoxy?
2a) Should I piece it all out and paint everything separate or should I assemble and shoot all at once to get a more uniform color? maybe do both with the final base with everything assembled.
3a) Could I then shoot clear with everything taken apart again? Any benefit of shooting clear with parts assembled?
4a) Paint. - I want to go with Gm color 46 WA928L Blue Granite Metallic. Is there any reason not to buy PPG Deltron DBC 2000 off ebay at $170 a gallon? the seller seams legit... Seller ID wbmesq Do I buy the reducer from PPG or SPI and do I need to buy the activator DX57?
5a) Since it is a color change and some panels are currently red and some are primer black I was going to sand scuff with X grade paper and shoot SPI regular 2K primer. yes to primer? what grit?
6a) skip sealer?
7a) Using universal Clear... no questions there.

Other/Black
The other items I will be painting are the removable rear corner guards, rockers and front fenders. They are all 6061 Aluminum. No taping needed. Since I am not 100% sure which type of black color to go with here and I am not exactly sure I am done drilling holes or welding i was going to sand with 80 or 100 grit and shoot Black SPI Epoxy. Lastly, if I have time I'd like to spray the hard top the same black. Not sure what to go with there.

1b) Suggestions on the corners/rockers/front fenders?
2b) Fiberglass hard top suggestions

That's about all I got for now. I'll likely be checking this thread every hour : ) I'd like to get all my supplies on order so i can spray next weekend.

Work is not letting me attach pictures. I'll try it later when I get home.

Here is a link to my build on another site if you want to see what it currently looks like. I used SPI epoxy on some of it as welll as SPI bedliner. The chassis was blasted and another brand of epoxy with Diamond vogul Pinnacle Satin Black for top coat.
Jeep Build


So my list to order from SPI is
W&G Cleaners 700 & 710
Black Epoxy and Activator - 2 gallons
2k Regular Primer Gray and Activator 1.25 Gallons
Universal Clear & Activator 2 Gallons
Reducers?? no idea there.
 
Maybe some pictures will help with a reply and show I am ambitious enough to get this done.

Here is the paint scheme I am looking at.
Jeep.jpg

Here is my chassis I built. I used 3/4 of the jeep frame rails. I cut off every bracket except for a couple body mounts. The suspension is obviously all custom. 14" shocks. GM LY6 motor.
Chassis 1.jpg

Some pictures of the jeep a month or two ago. I don't have any good pictures on this computer so this is what you get.
Jeep 2.jpg

Jeep 3.jpg

Jeep 4.jpg

Jeep 5.jpg
 
I don't know enough to answer your questions, although I would say by your wording you've already made up your mind and are just looking for the "OK" :) Also I'm not sure expecting responses within a set time is the best way to get people to take time out of their busy schedule to help. Lastly since you're in a hurry the search button on this excellent forum would help you tremendously.

Just sayin...
 
I wouldnt say for sure I have made up my mind. I am mainly looking for advice on what SPI products to buy and tips on when and what to apply. I wasnt looking for a response within an hour, just hoping someone would respond eventually. What I meant was I am hear listening to any and all advice. If someone takes the time to respond I will read it right away, it will nto be ignored. My 1 post on this forum does not mean I will dissapper. I've read on and off for years and know how to search. Time is my enemy right now. I could spend 20 hours reading or 20 hours sanding. While it may appear I know what I am doing I would argue the opposite and I simply would appreciate advice.

The jeep will be painted next weekend whether I know what I am doing or not. It might be an expensive lesson but I can't think of a better way to learn then doing...
 
Most of the people that post advice on this forum tend to be perfectionists. Virtually no one who posts here would recommend that a reasonable job could be done on your vehicle in a week's time, not even by a seasoned professional. Therefore some may not take you seriously, or conclude that you are making light of the skills that many of us have taken lots of time to perfect.

I'll answer the first two of your questions. Epoxy is the only primer SPI sells that offers good adhesion to bare metal. 2K urethane can be used on small bare metal areas, but afterward that spot will be more prone to chipping and corrosion that places where the epoxy is intact. As far as painting in pieces goes, the success rate depends on the color chosen, and the ability to maintain a uniform spraying style. If metallic paint is being used by a novice, my recommendation is to paint the vehicle assembled, painting jambs ahead of time as necessary.

I want you to know that I intend no insult by my blunt language. I hope you will just take it for what it's worth.
 
Decision 1 - I bought my basecoat
Decision 2 - I will black epoxy primer all aluminum and possible the haptop. No questions there. I'll focus on the paint/color. If you look at my jeep above you will see very little color is needed on the body. I am more concerned about painting it to get it drivable. if I have to go back and fix a dent or two that will be another lesson.

Thanks Crash
No offense taken. I appreciate any and all feedback. I in no way mean to insult you or anyone here saying I can do what you can do with little to no experience or time. Given your input I am considering changing my plan and reprioritizing. The fact is I really really want to take this on a 1000 mile road trip in about 23 days. I need a windshield in it to drive it and it makes sence to paint it right now if possible. Heck, even Primer right now might due. As you can see from the full custom frame build above, I am as much action as I am talk.

Given the quality of paint job I am looking for I would think base and clear are a 1-2 day task after the body is properly prepped. I'll try to make my questions simple and straight forward so they are easy to answer. Consider this a 5-10 year vehicle before body gets replaced... I may be using better materials than some would reccomend but I think these are good products to learn with. Other than the base coat can someone give me a reason NOT to use SPI on everything?

If there is any bare metal I will Epoxy. If I plan on applying any body filler I will epoxy first.

Of the items that currently have exsisting paint or primer..

1) What should I apply before the basecoat? what would you bother with?
2) For a newb like me what grade reducers would you go with?
 
Most painters here will recommend one thin coat of epoxy, reduced 50%, as a sealer. Treat it like it was the first coat of basecoat.

Reducer selection depends on temperature. For a complete in moderate temps, 885 is a good choice.

Just so you know, there is no harm in driving a vehicle in SPI epoxy primer. It's not porous like other primers, so your metal and bodywork are safe from the elements, just in case you don't make it all the way to paint.
 
This may be worth a read

http://www.southernpolyurethanes.com/perfect paint.htm

If you want to eliminated anything in the name of speed, I would eliminate the high build primer. The epoxy will give you the corrosion resistance and durability you need. It is an excellent sealer and sands/blocks well.

You will not find many folks here in favor of short cuts or cutting corners
 
I've read the perfect paint job a bunch of times over the last 4-5 years and not sure if it applies here. I see no need to go down to bare metal on this vehicle and I doubt others would either therefore I was getting confused with where to start. I have not seen any official "procedure" here for a repaint. I was under the assumption that to get a uniform base coat color it would make sense to have a uniform colored primer to cover. When I think about primer under paint I think about the 2k, probably due to the "perfect paint job" using it. Talking with others I may now think that was a wrong thought. If my current surface has an acceptable finish I should just seal with reduced epoxy, base, clear.

So to dumb it down for myself.
Epoxy is used first because it is the best and only SPI primer to stick to bare metal.
Filler is next if needed.
Epoxy again (mainly because you have bare metal spots).
after that I have a choice, spray 2k or go straight to base.

1) What benefit would spraying and sanding 2K give me if this epoxy is such a workable sandable primer? I would like to understand this even though based on the feedback i should skip this step. Is it mainly used because of its workability?

I am really leaning towards the suggestions here of just getting it in primer/sealer for now. I may be forced to just because of time.

I will try to do some reading to figure out why Epoxy is reduced when used as a sealer. I'm guessing it thins it out and sprays thinner/flatter...
 
Also, to add to the confusion I have read all over a sealer is not always necessary and to a few is just a wasted step. Now I'm being told to just seal and skip any 2k... Is that because this is a respray/color change and not a restore which would normally involve blocking a 2k for a perfectish finish?
 
Epoxy is used first, from what I understand, not because it is "the best" but because it will seal the bare metal and create a great base for adhesion. The 2K primer won't be as resistant to chips and such. Since you don't seem to want a laser straight paint job, I would epoxy over it all then use your filler. Then seal with reduced epoxy to create an even color and to seal your filler, base, and clear.

I would still recommend using your weekend to getting it into bare metal then epoxying it. Leave it that way until you can take the time to do it right. Unless you know the quality of the metal underneath what paint the vehicle already has, as well as what kind of paint it is, taking it off will possibly save you from problems down the road. Even if the epoxy had perfect adhesion onto the current paint, the current paint might not have perfect adhesion to the metal.
 
mitch_04;30688 said:
Epoxy is used first, from what I understand, not because it is "the best" but because it will seal the bare metal and create a great base for adhesion. The 2K primer won't be as resistant to chips and such. Since you don't seem to want a laser straight paint job, I would epoxy over it all then use your filler. Then seal with reduced epoxy to create an even color and to seal your filler, base, and clear.

I would still recommend using your weekend to getting it into bare metal then epoxying it. Leave it that way until you can take the time to do it right. Unless you know the quality of the metal underneath what paint the vehicle already has, as well as what kind of paint it is, taking it off will possibly save you from problems down the road. Even if the epoxy had perfect adhesion onto the current paint, the current paint might not have perfect adhesion to the metal.
Click to expand...

^^^ X2 concentrating on the adhesion to substrate before will save tons of headaches to come;)
 
Kmkommes, I was just reading this thread and was wondering how your project is going? Got any new pics?
 
Took a 9 month break, that's how these build go when you have a family. Finally spraying color today. Wish me luck
 
I sprayed the body a few weeks ago. I painted the rest individually yesterday/today. I have a few runs in the hood from painting it vertically. It was perfect until the 3rd coat. Not sure how to fix the runs yet. It is turning out better then I expected for my first paint job. The black is SPI Single Stage. The body is PPG DBC1 blue granite metallic with Universal Clear.

IMG_1258[1].jpg

IMG_1262[1].jpg
 
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