New guy, first time painter, head is spinning

D

Dunnburger

Ok, so I've read and read and read post after post after post (I should've took some notes) 65 GTO is at the body shop, my body guy/painter is gonna put her in SPI black epoxy before I bring her home. To save some coin I will be putting her in 2k/base/clear. I've got a couple questions.....
I plan on running with the SPI regular 2k not the high build, the way I see it, after my car is in epoxy I've got up to 7 days to get the 2k on it with just a light scuffing with red scotchbrite pads, correct? Then lay down a few coats of 2k with flash time of approx 30 min between coats. ( it's bit chilly in Nebraska, but my garage will be at or above 70 degrees) then block it out and more 2k with another round of blocking.
Dumb question here but say I mix up the enough 2k the fill my 20 oz spray gun cup, how far does that get me? When that cup is out do I make a soft edge, stop, mix up more 2k and just carry on or should I mix up a couple cups worth at one time?
After the 2k, I will be moving to a paint booth other than my garage. When I get the car there should I lay a thin coat of reduced epoxy over the 2k, wait and then apply my base (with proper flash times) then begin clearing? I will have the paint booth for two days, should I just clear the next day after the base?
Thanks in advance, and thanks for you time helping a newbie out. And by the way, all products including the red base will be SPI products used.
 
Sounds like your plan will work just fine, scuff the epoxy if it gets to be a few days old. You'll need two guns of primer to make it around the car I'd bet and make sure it goes on wet. No need to worry about a soft edge where your primer stops and starts-just overlap it a little. You can block it and spot prime any problem areas found, work those areas some more then reprime it complete for your final sanding. Epoxy sealer before base isn't a requirement but it does add durability.
 
Dunnburger;15519 said:
I plan on running with the SPI regular 2k not the high build, the way I see it, after my car is in epoxy I've got up to 7 days to get the 2k on it with just a light scuffing with red scotchbrite pads, correct? Then lay down a few coats of 2k with flash time of approx 30 min between coats. ( it's bit chilly in Nebraska, but my garage will be at or above 70 degrees) then block it out and more 2k with another round of blocking.
Click to expand...

http://www.spiuserforum.com/showthr...etween-2k-Regular-build-and-High-build-primer

I would suggest using a pair of mixing cups.
Fill both with the proper amount of each component, but do NOT mix them together, just cover will some plastic wrap.
When you spray out your first cup of paint, then mix the 2 components together, fill your cup and go again.
I do it this way because I don't always need the second cup due to one dumb mistake or another and it saves wasting the material, and if all is going well it reduces the chance of making a mixing mistake.
Just make dam sure you MIX the 2 cups together before refilling your gun.
The very best of the best make mixing mistakes, so I do all I can to keep from making more of them than a noobie should :)
 
I use a basic formula for calculating how much paint to mix and so far it has proven to be pretty accurate (for me at least). For each panel (fender, hood, roof, etc.) I figure 8 ounces of ready to spray (RTS) paint for each coat. Keep in mind I normally paint larger 60s muscle car type vehicles so if your painting a compact car you can cut the amount to 6 ounces.
Using the figure above 3 coats of 2k on a panel would be 24 ounces RTS. On a 65 GTO painting the entire car with 3 coats would be about 7 quarts of RTS paint.
There are some variables like tips size, gun settings, etc. that can effect the amount of paint used.

With 2k primer you will be sanding most of it off so I wouldn't be overly concerned about texture or a dry edge. Do pay attention to flash times as trapping solvent can cause you some issues.

With base coat you will need to spray to achieve full coverage. With some colors this will be 2-3 coats with others it could be 6 or more coats so keep that in mind.
 
when you run out of primer be sure to run a little reducer through the gun before reloading . i do this after every cup regardless . flash time will allow the primer in the tip to start kicking some which will reduce your flow .
 
First of all want to say thanks for the repsonses!!
Bob Hollinshead;15523 said:
Sounds like your plan will work just fine, scuff the epoxy if it gets to be a few days old. You'll need two guns of primer to make it around the car I'd bet and make sure it goes on wet. No need to worry about a soft edge where your primer stops and starts-just overlap it a little. You can block it and spot prime any problem areas found, work those areas some more then reprime it complete for your final sanding. Epoxy sealer before base isn't a requirement but it does add durability.
Click to expand...

By "going on wet" do you mean to cover well on each pass of the gun, like laying it down and its glossy (wet) looking? You probably know better what im trying to say than i do, ha. When spraying I should cover each pass by 50% or so right? And also durability is what im lookin for, cause I dont want to have to do it again for as long as possible.

[QUOTE='68 Coronet R/T;15533]I use a basic formula for calculating how much paint to mix and so far it has proven to be pretty accurate (for me at least). For each panel (fender, hood, roof, etc.) I figure 8 ounces of ready to spray (RTS) paint for each coat. Keep in mind I normally paint larger 60s muscle car type vehicles so if your painting a compact car you can cut the amount to 6 ounces.
Using the figure above 3 coats of 2k on a panel would be 24 ounces RTS. On a 65 GTO painting the entire car with 3 coats would be about 7 quarts of RTS paint.
There are some variables like tips size, gun settings, etc. that can effect the amount of paint used.

With 2k primer you will be sanding most of it off so I wouldn't be overly concerned about texture or a dry edge. Do pay attention to flash times as trapping solvent can cause you some issues.

With base coat you will need to spray to achieve full coverage. With some colors this will be 2-3 coats with others it could be 6 or more coats so keep that in mind.[/QUOTE]

With your math, then 2 spray-able gallons should do it right? And as far as flash times go, if it says "flash time of 5 min" or so is there any harm in waiting longer? Its just when you dont wait long enough when you get the problems correct?

So going for durability when I'm all sanded and ready for base, I should hit it with reduced epoxy, lets say the paint booth is 75 degrees, let that flash for ?? long, then begin applying base with appropriate flash times (and you only need to apply base till you have full coverage, adding more doesn't necessarily add any benefit or insurance, right?) Should I clear that same day, or next day? what do you guys think?

And again, thank you for your replies, it is truly appreciated, there's so much knowledge/experience and information on this forum. So much information, i confuse myself and need you guys to set me straight.
 
at 75 degrees reduced epoxy wont need long, most guys do it immediately after flash. clear the next day, although with temps like that you could probably do it in a couple of hours. the more experienced will reply...
 
50% overlap is standard practice-just watch the material transfer and make sure it's wet looking in your spray pattern as you make a pass. It you spray urethane primer on dry the adhesion won't be as good and there's a chance of bridging scratches and it showing later.
 
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