Masking stupid areas for overspray protection

O

Oramac

Hi all, Probably should've posted this in masking forum, but wanted more folks to see it in the Clear/Topoat section. Am currently doing this 41 Lincoln Zephyr, and alot of areas are body color and since it's not really practical or easy to spray color/clear at the same time as main body i thought I'd share this with everyone. Many times in the past i have done/ completly finished areas like engine compartments, trunks, etc, before spraying the body, especially in these full restos, where things are done in stages. I used to always mask off these finished areas with the traditional bodyshop paper, and it seems no matter how hard you try, clearcoat overspray would "sneak" in somewhere and get between the paper and finished paint and cloud it up. Tough to buff these areas. Masking liquid/spray has been discussed in the past but that is a pain to remove. Well, ladies and gentlemen, children of all ages, I had a brainstorm, what little brain is left, was watching the bride one night wrapping up some food with the Glad Brand "press and seal" ...hmmmmmmm,grabbed a chunk, ran out to the newly finished engine comp. and whatya know, bing, bong,zoom! Now, I don't put this over paint thats fresh, wait a couple days minimum, AND this isn't for direct spray protection, should paper over any direct overspray ares, since the solvents will melt it, but this is the cats meow, since it conforms so well to those hard to mask areas. Sure beats the liquid mask or DL hand cleaner like the old days! Sorry, have some pics, but files are to large to post. Craig
 
Most of us hit the "New Posts" button so as to see all the new posts no matter what section they are in. So don't be afraid to post in the correct section.
 
Good idea Oramac. You might also try aluminum foil, it will conform to many things also.
 
press-n-seal, is this a saran wrap like product? adhesive?
 
Bob, Yes, it's a Saran wrap type product, made by Glad, made for covering food etc. Does'nt have any adhesive, kinda like shrink wrap, easier to work with. It's on a roll about 12" long, yellow box, about 70 sq. ft. Any grocery store, walmart etc. has it. I use aluminum foil on hoses, a/c lines etc. but foil does'nt stay up on verticle surfaces with out taping. The press n seal sucks right up to verticle surfaces like firewalls, inner fenders etc. Hope this helps, Craig
 
I've used slime, foil and all. I like the slime, just don't bake with it on there! Maybe it is the brand I have but I made the mistake of baking a car that had it all in the engine bay (painted, no motor), stuff turned into plastic and had to blast it off with the water hose and peel whatever was left off that didn't release with the hose.

I'm not really sure what brand I have, maybe I should find out and switch?...I use it alot on wheel wells and undercarriages.
 
Hay Jeremy, Thats what can happen with those different spray on masks, besides, when a person is doing a full ground up resto, usually everything get sandblasted, dipped, etc. Sometimes in the different seams, laps, and supports doesn't get enough epoxy on the parts, to fully protect it from rusting if you were to use too much water in those areas washing off the liquid mask. Craig
 
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