Making the switch... New paint lines.

Jim C said:
ill say it again, the best thing i ever did was get rid of diamont and go with wanda. 1/3 the cost and i actually like it better. it way better for masking, 2 tones, graphics, all that kind of stuff. covers as well or better. the little bit of color matching i do has always been right on the money. i have zero complaints with it. i dont use their primers or clears though. i use spi reducer in the base and all spi primers and clears. i have been told the wanda reducer is super fast so the spi really works great with it. from an inside source i have been told that wanda is the old sikkens autobase which was their premium line before autobase plus. this is why all the sikkens color tools and formulas work with it. if thats true or not i dont know but the source is pretty reliable.
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How well does the base sand as far as dirt nibs are concerned? Really anxious to try it.. I am getting a feel for Moto-Base already so I'm ready to try Wanda. I'm also curious to see how the two compare price wise. Moto-Base seems to be really reasonable so I'm guessing they will be roughly the same.
 
[quote name=''68 Coronet R/T' timestamp='1440298783']I sprayed Wanda base just once it had no problems with the paint. The jobber who sells it? Now that's a different story, he's a class A jerk. I get better service ordering from some place in Michigan. LOL[/quote]
Doesn't it just seem like some people just like to make things difficult.. And for what seems to be no reason at all.
 
The Wanda rep was in yesterday and got everything set up in the computer for us, I searched a few common older colors and they were all in the database, marina blue, hugger orange etc.
I haven't had the chance to mix anything up yet or had a chance to try it myself, I don't have anything to paint at the moment so it may be a little bit..

Only thing I was confused about was the fact that the warehouse rep told me it was a 1:1 mix ratio, but come to find out it is a 2:1 ratio on the base coat, so once reduced you get a little less material, however it also seems to be a little cheaper than the moto-base, so in the end they may be very close in price depending on the color.
 
Jim C;n75816 said:
ill say it again, the best thing i ever did was get rid of diamont and go with wanda. 1/3 the cost and i actually like it better. it way better for masking, 2 tones, graphics, all that kind of stuff. covers as well or better. the little bit of color matching i do has always been right on the money. i have zero complaints with it. i dont use their primers or clears though. i use spi reducer in the base and all spi primers and clears. i have been told the wanda reducer is super fast so the spi really works great with it. from an inside source i have been told that wanda is the old sikkens autobase which was their premium line before autobase plus. this is why all the sikkens color tools and formulas work with it. if thats true or not i dont know but the source is pretty reliable.
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I questioned the rep about this being the old autobase, his answer was yes/no. He said it carried over many of the characteristics of the old autobase but he said the autobase had a lot of sensitivity issues and they had changes made in the Wanda line to solve these issues.. So he said it's basically a modified version of the old autobase.

I do remember hearing of sensitivity issues of sikkens, I assumed it was in the clear.
 
good to know. i can say i have had no sensitivity issues. he must be talking about the clear or primer. how can you have sensitive base coat. base doesnt wrinkle up, just clear, primer or any other catalyzed finish. weird but ok. in any case i have seen nothing on my end with it being used with the spi stuff. wanda has far less tail solvents in it then diamont so its actually a little easier on old finishes that might be below the surface a bit. anyway let us know how you like it or the feedback you get from it.
 
Jim C said:
good to know. i can say i have had no sensitivity issues. he must be talking about the clear or primer. how can you have sensitive base coat. base doesnt wrinkle up, just clear, primer or any other catalyzed finish. weird but ok. in any case i have seen nothing on my end with it being used with the spi stuff. wanda has far less tail solvents in it then diamont so its actually a little easier on old finishes that might be below the surface a bit. anyway let us know how you like it or the feedback you get from it.
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That was my thoughts as well, It would almost have to be the clear. I was assuming it was the repair-ability of the clear, this is what I remember hearing from years back.. If you needed to re-clear you were in trouble with the old sikkens.. However that was 15 years ago so my memory is weak. I will keep you posted.

I also remember Diamont being a little agressive as well, however that's been about 15 years for me as well..

thanks for making me feel old LOL..
 
I am doing some comparisons today, I have a customer that is having a color match issue while he is using up his Pro-Spray so I decided to mix it in Moto-Base, and once I did this I realized this is a great opportunity to check all of the paint lines, compare pricing and color match. This is on a charcoal Mercedes.

We haven't done any spray outs yet and we haven't mixed the Wanda yet but here are the price comparisons.

The first price is for a pint, and the second price is for a gallon, keep in mind Wanda mixes 2:1

Pro-Spray $53.66 / $429
Moto-Base $41.06 / $328
Wanda $28.66 / $229
 
So if I'm doing the math right cost per ounce of RTS product (not counting reducer cost):
Wanda = $1.19
Moto-base = $1.28
Pro-Spray = $1.68
 
The first test comparison between colors for match was Moto-Base with the best match, being a little blue, Pro-Spray second with a dark face, but the metallic's were off. Wanda was third being quite a bit darker and bluer..

Moto-Base would be the easiest to tint as the metallic's were really close. customer may just use this and blend.

This may not be the best test though as every brand has it's good and bad colors, this will be more for a test of time.
 
I thought I would post a small update on this. We just mixed a little bit of Moto-Base and Wanda today to compare for a bumper project somebody is doing, and they were both fairly close, Moto-Base was just a touch darker and the Wanda had a just a little bit more green to it. So either line would be very close, customer is going to let me know which one he chooses to use.

We have checked a few other colors as well and they all seem to be pretty close, we only had one color so far that was to far off to work with, and that was with Wanda and it was the first color we mixed with the line.

Within the next week we are going to try spraying some single stage Wanda on a gas pump we are restoring.. I am curious if Jim or anybody else in here has any experience with their single stage.
 
Customer went with Wanda on this one, he painted one panel and he said the color looked great. So they are going to be on a case by case basis it seems. Which is typical to most paint lines.

I'll post back once we do the single stage.
 
have never used their single stage. my jobber mixes utech. i dont think they have the wanda ss.

here is a vette a close friend of mine restored. it just won best in class at the concours de elegance the other day. all wanda and spi universal.

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That Vette looks killer Jim.

I will let you know on the single stage soon, we are doing a older cast gas pump so we won't be buffing anything but it will give a good indication of how it sprays.

I was a little timid on both of these paint lines but overall I think good choices were made.

We have been using a lot of Moto-Base and a lot of customers are really liking it, but now we are venturing into trying Wanda more.

With the different mix ratio it seems like Wanda may be just a touch cheaper than Moto-Base but they are both cheaper than the Pro-Spray.

Still the biggest down fall I see is the lack of database for really old colors. Pro-Spray had that one, We have been checking old colors and Pro-Spray has a lot of colors that PPG or Dupond don't even have. but so far we have been able to re-create the older colors with the color books and some tinting. So full steam ahead now.
 
On my old Mustang projects which line will match the factory colors or do I need to buy from a local Pro Spray jobber?
 
Will be hit and miss on who has a formula, Moto-Base doesn't have a strong database older than 1980 so Wanda has more formulas available on older cars but what I have been doing is matching colors to a part and creating a color as we did with Pro-Spray when we first got started with that line. Then it gets submitted to them to add to the database. We had one that was only available in Pro-Spray and mixed a small amount then created the color in Moto-Base. Originally Pro-Spray didn't have nearly as many colors as they do now.

Did one last week that didn't even have a formula and we got a good match so only a few panels had to be sprayed, unfortunately it was kind of a waste of time as far as creating a formula because it wasn't a factory color to begin with, so it can't be entered as a formula.

The good thing is that both of these lines have better color decks than Pro-Spray, so it makes creating a color easier.
 
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