Holding door when blocking across gaps

[KenZ]

I was looking through the post by MP&C in the Resto section about the 55 Chevy wagon and I saw where he block sanded across the door gaps.

When doing this, how is the door held closed and kept from moving in & out? In his pics there weren't any door handles but maybe the latches and strikers were in place? Or is there some other method used?

Thanks,
Ken

 

[MikeS]

I usually block with my doors slightly open, but I've also held my doors "shut" when spraying (when the strikers are off) using bungee cords from one to the other on the inside. There's usually an opening on the door frame once the panel is off. I always take the glass out of the door, so it's no problem reaching in and unhooking a cord. I spray my jambs separate so afterwards when spraying the whole car I'll put in the rubber blocks you see that prevent the door from traveling too far inward.

Mike

 

[northerndave]

blocking across panels, interesting idea. I gap everything in bare metal then blow the car apart and block everything separate from the main body. Doors on body stands, fenders on body stands or fender jig, hood and deck lid on body stand (although I pay special attention to support points when blocking hoods and deck lids on body stands).

 

[MP&C]

This helped to keep the door flush, just can't push hard on the sanding block. Let the paper do the work.. If it needs additional stability, grab the rear door and b pillar in one hand, sand with the other..

 

[northerndave]

Robert, is that SOP for your projects? (blocking across gaps)

 

[ksungela]

I have the door latch and weatherstripping installed so the door is in the final position when block sanding the '67 vette I'm building. Body has been shimmed as well. The decklid also has the weatherstipping installed. It makes a big difference especially on fiberglass cars, IMO.

 

[MP&C]

Robert, is that SOP for your projects? (blocking across gaps)

I didn't on the prior project (Fairlane), but then the doors fit much better. The one prior to that was a C1 Vette, which needed all the help it could get, So I did block across gaps on that one.. When done we had some nice panel & gap fitment sure to get the NCRS folks steamed..

The ones on the 55 needed help, in addition to new door skins the quarters were seamed just behind the B pillar as the repop quarter was too long by about 1/4-3/8" Given all this work, (and welding) blocking across the gaps was about the best option.

 

[chevman]

The older cars typically need a lot of work to get the panels to line up together, and that certainly needs to be done first. After getting the panels aligned, you still may not be able to get even a 6" straight edge to lay down across the seam. As MP&C said, it might take a lot of work to get it perfect on the older cars, but some don't need so much.

To hold the door for sanding, I wedged a broom stick between the doors to push out against the latch, because I wanted to be sure the door wouldn't move.
Of course the latch had to be adjusted perfectly, but it also has to be adjusted perfectly during final assembly, or the work is in vain.
The first blocking will tell you if you are on the right track.

 

[mitch_04]

I don't know if any of you follow Tyler Krause, but he does some high level paint jobs for some of the bigger names. He has an Instagram page where he gives a daily tip.

Anyways, he puts a blob of filler in the door gap, once the rest is blocked he cuts out the blob. Just a thought.

 

[DATEC]

I put the striker and latch in with the door seal, adjust to where you get it to seal properly then see where everything lines up. That is the best way to do it when major work had to be done. Otherwise you could be blocking and shaping your butt off, get it straight, put it together and sealing proper only to watch all your hard work go in the crapper. Everything hinges on having a good seal first.

 

[KenZ]

Thank you everyone for the replies. Like most things, several different ways to accomplish it.

Thanks again,
Ken

 

[Arrowhead]

I tape pieces of stir sticks stacked up in the door jamb so the door has a hard stop to push against. The latch keeps it from moving out.