Fully cured epoxy

Leonard1

Leonard1

Professional Amateur
I'm sure you guys don't remember, but I was working on an old chevy truck. This thing has been sitting in epoxy for a couple of years, mostly sanded to 320 or 400, and the bed got another coat of epoxy over that. I'm wanting to paint it in the next couple of months, so tonight I cleaned it good, and scuffed any unsanded area with 320 on a half folded scotch brite pad. I want to put another couple of coats of full strength epoxy over the whole thing, and am wondering if that is an aggressive enough scratch? Also, should I re-sand the areas that were sanded to 400 two years ago, or clean it and shoot the color? Any advice will be much appreciated!

Here's the thread from a couple of years ago:
 
Thanks guys. I have another question for you. This is the hood of the truck. It's a big panel that wants to "oil can" as I block it. You can see where the supports are under the hood, but I can't feel them when I run my hand across the hood. Just the pressure from the block running over them is causing this. How do I make this right?
 
It is not ready for paint it will need some more careful blocking and another coat of primer and that will need blocked. If you can see the outlines now you will see them later. Need pics of the underside. Are there any glue foam spots between the 2 panels? Some years had them some not. Careful light handed blocking will probably be the best answer.
 
When you are blocking is the metal moving? Meaning up and down in response to you putting pressure on it? Has there been any metal work done on the hood? WIthout seeing it these are just guesses but I imagine that the metal is either stretched a bit or you are putting too much pressure on the block as you sand. If it's the latter try using the least amount of pressure possible, no more than the weight of the block. Keep your paper fresh. Change it very often, doing that helps on a problem area like this. If its the former, and you have worked a spot(s) then you may possibly need to either shrink the panel in the problem area or rework whatever metal work you did on it. Sometimes an area that needs to be "stretched" (technically that's not entirely correct) will cause the exact same symptom as an area with too much metal (high spot , shrink).
 
DateC: It's definately not ready for paint, there's only 3 coats of epoxy over bare metal. The hood has a bead of anti-rattle foam between the supports and the hood, but it is flexible (compressable). I really think it's the pressure of the block that makes the supports outline show up.
Chris: Yes, the metal moves a little when I sand it, it seems to do better if I block it with the hood standing up vertical. There hasn't ever been any metal work on the hood, I sanded the original lacquer paint off and went straight to epoxy, both sides of the hood. No filler, no hammer & dolly, no sandblasting, nothing. Like I said before, it looks good to the eye, and I can't feel the supports when I run my hand across them.
Thanks again for your help guys, I really appreciate it.
 
Thanks for everyone's help, I finally got the hood to suit me. It sanded best standing up, so that the block didn't put too much pressure on the metal.
Here's the tailgate I've been working on. It's a repo, but I got the handle filled and the whole thing blocked. It has about 6 coats of blocked epoxy, but you can tell that I still hit metal in several places. Any tips for getting the letters better defined? I've been using part of a wooden ruler as a tiny block so far. Also, I need to apply some seam sealer in the drip rail on the cab, and was thinking about using a self-leveling product. I'm worried about getting a heavy bodied sealer to look good over that much area. Any suggestions are greatly appreciated, as I have never used anything like that before.
 
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