Finish sanding with 400 and 600 grit before sealer question.

I think you will be fine doing and using what you are planning. Compared to a car the machine will live a low stress life indoors. Would using epoxy throughout be better? Yes but like I said, something inside, that won't get wet, no UV, etc it should be fine. Get it painted so you can start shaping.:)
When you have some time check out Peter Tommasini's forum, Metalshapershub. Robert (MP&C is on there along with a couple of other guys here. It is to shaping, what this forum is to paint and body. No BS, just solid info. (Apologies if I shared this before)

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Watching Peter's Youtube videos and the 10 DVD set will set you on your way to becoming a metal shaper. It's essentially an apprenticeship on video. In the DVD's he breaks it down to the principles and imparts an understanding of the how and why. Honestly I can't recommend those DVD's enough. They are amazing. You will watch them over and over as there is so much info that it takes time to comprehend. These videos are to shaping as SPI is to Epoxy. The best. I'd recommend the videos first, in order, then watching the vids Peter has posted on Youtube. And Peter will answer your questions on the forum, giving detailed instruction. He's a great guy.

Peter's site for the DVD's
 
MJM said:
Today I've started finish sanding the 2k I've sprayed using powder guide coat. I'm blocking with 400 and using my da with a soft pad for 600. My question has two parts.

After blocking with 400 I went over it with 600 on the da. While using the da I broke thru the 2k and exposed "black epoxy".

Question # 1....... can I leave the exposed black epoxy and use the 2k sealer coat to cover it?

Question # 2.......while blocking with 400 I broke thru to bare metal. Will the 2k sealer be okay to cover this?

The 2k primer I used is a DTM (direct to metal) three in one product, high build 4:1, surfacer 4:1:1 and sealer 4:1:2.

In this 1st picture is exposed black epoxy on the edge after da with 600, and exposed metal on weld bead to the right of the exposed epoxy.
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did you have plans for this? where did you get the upper and lower anvils?
 
zachm said:
did you have plans for this? where did you get the upper and lower anvils?
Click to expand...

I started a thread about this build in the tool forum. SPI member Don provided links to English Wheel accessories.

Let's see if I can link the thread from my phone.

English Wheel run out question

Purchased an English Wheel as a Christmas gift for myself. Before unboxing everything and assembling it, I pulled the top 8" wheel out of the box to check the face and side of the wheel for run out. The face of the wheel is within half a thousand on the entire width, and side play is 6 thousand...
www.spiuserforum.com
 
I'm curious about the choice of using the DA after blocking. I guess I'm being too paranoid about sanding after blocking. I'm concerned that I'm going to uneven what I just flattened if I sand something without a block. Is that fear unfounded, or if it isn't how do I not ruin my blocking?
 
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How I do this is complete my final block with 220. Then spray one more coat 2k over the entire thing to fill in 220 scratches. Wet sand this coat with whatever your final grit is (600 for me). You shouldn’t have breakthru’s with 600.

Sand thru to bare metal I’d hit those spots with sealer, let flash and then do a coat of sealer over the entire thing.
 
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