Filler

7

72gs455

I have question about filler and the process, where should I look before i post something already answered?
 
You could look through the "Primer" thread, there's probably some good info. Also, check out the "Perfect Paint Job" on the main page. If you have questions, just ask! Everyone on here is very helpful.
 
okay here goes...
Fender stripped and cleaned to bare metal, cut out rust and welded in patch,epoxy primed with SPI 2 coats. Than i noticed all the dings(possibly hail). I have a tube of putty for the dings and quart of body filler for evening out the patch panel. I am ready to start to level the "bondo". so here is the question, as I sand the filler I will also start to take down some of the epoxy, do I need to re-epoxy before I top with second coat of bondo or putty and keep alternating this process? I will shoot 2k once I think its close and block it, but I want as good of a base to start with as I can get!
Thanks!
 
The rub throughs are going to be high spots. If you spread some filler on those bare / high areas in the process of filling the lows, it will get sanded off anyway. You will always see a ring of epoxy feathering out from the filler. This is how I can tell I have epoxy under my filler. If it was high,then got sanded bare and you tapped it down, I would spray epoxy on that spot.
 
There's a learning curve to this that will take some time to master, and it's often very frustrating for even experienced bodymen that are accustomed to doing filler work over bare metal. Once you get the proceedure down it becomes second nature. Here's some basics: When you're looking at the low area that needs filler make sure to spread the filler past where it needs to be, cut the filler while it's in the rubbery stage to rough out the shape but leave it a little high/edges will not be feathered-this is usually done with 40.60.or80 grit- a wire brush or an airgun is handy for keeping the paper clean when the filler is soft. Let the filler finish kicking over then use 80,or 120 and get it closer to shape-the edges should be starting to feather out well, apply some guidecoat and switch to 180 or 220 grit and finish sanding. Glazecoat for any pinholes and make sure your final sanding is no coarser than 180 grit unless you plan to use polyester surfacer. Spot prime your bare metal areas with epoxy or prime the whole panel-before spraying any primer surfacer.
Everyone has their own techniques and they can vary by the job at hand but you'll get the hang of it and find what works best for you.

If you've got a panel with many small damage areas it's sometimes faster to skim the complete panel. The cut throughs will be high and the low areas will show as unsanded if not enough filler is applied.
 
Thanks, things are moving along, ran out of time last night. Looking good so far (granted this doesnt have the shiny paint that will show all the defects) but I am pleased so far. I do have a question, After I toss another coat of epoxy and proceed with the 2k, will it okay to use a lil putty if I find a low spot or a ding or two on top of the 2k? Do I need to reshoot epoxy after blocking 2k or just use epoxy reduced as a sealer?
 
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I started another thread about putty. I will ask you anyways... Is PPG DFL17 ok to use?
 
I wouldn't recommend the cheap red putty as it is lacquer based. Get some metal glaze or similar for that final skim coat. If you are using a guide coat with your filler work most of these imperfections will be spotted and repaired at that stage.
 
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