Featherfill 2G question

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I've never used Featherfill G2 before but based on a few replies here I thought I would try it.

I laid out a good medium wet coat (over blocked SPI 2k) on a few pieces about six hours ago and am having trouble blocking it out. It laid out well and looks good but when I go to cut it with 180, it balls up on the paper. Shop temp is 70*, the supply air is well filtered and I measured the catalyst and primer as opposed to just eyeballing it so I'm at a loss as to what happened. Thoughts anyone ?
 
Only one coat? Featherfil will take a while to cure all the way through in one coat. The fix is to put a heat lamp on it for 1 hour at 140-150 degrees, let it cool and it should sand fine.

Scott
 
Yes, I didn't lay it on too heavy as this was my first rodeo with the stuff. I'm thinking I'll give it until tomorrow and hit it with 80 grit and see how that goes.
 
My experience with FeatherFill G2 has led me to let it sit overnight (or longer/ or heat lamp) and hit it first with some worn 80 grit. After the 'top' has been removed it turns to a nice gray dust (if using the black) and then switch to 180. You don't have to be real aggressive with the 80, just enough to cut it open. I have had it ball up on me starting with 180 even after sitting for a month.
 
Many polyester body fillers get a thin, gummy skin on top, and Featherfill does too. I always break the skin off of poly primer with 100 grit (old 80 would work good too, hat tip to old soul), just enough to remove the orange peel, then switch to 150.
 
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