Euro clear question before I spray

MJM

MJM

Promoted Users
My interior panels are all prepped to be finish sprayed. I'm looking to spray epoxy sealer reduced 25% within the next hour.

Tomorrow to spray base around 9:00AM, and Euro clear coat around 9:00am Saturday morning. I'm going to spray three coats of clear.

Here's my question. I was planning to flowcoat by spraying three more coats after sanding the clear........ however, I won't beable to flowcoat for two to three weeks.

Can I sand and flowchart two or three weeks later, or should I just wait until clear coat / flowcoat can be done normally without down time?

Thank you
Ps......I'm just itching to get color on something, lol

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The longer the first round can cure, the better the flowcoat will be.
How does that jive with the Perfect Paint Job info?
 
AAE said:
The longer the first round can cure, the better the flowcoat will be.
How does that jive with the Perfect Paint Job info?
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Excellent.......I'll have to go read the Perfect Paint Job information again. It probably says exactly what you recommended.

This won't be the first time, nore the last, I make myself look like an ass.

Actually, I'm pretty good at it.

Thanks for the help.
 
"Flowcoat" is a term I never heard of until joining this site. Your plan sounds fine as my understanding of flowcoating is simply three coats, sand then three more. Usually with some retarder in the 2nd round of clear coats.

Won't make any real difference you waiting. Definitely no downside as long as you are sanding it well, before the 2nd round of clear.
 
Chris_Hamilton said:
"Flowcoat" is a term I never heard of until joining this site. Your plan sounds fine as my understanding of flowcoating is simply three coats, sand then three more. Usually with some retarder in the 2nd round of clear coats.

Won't make any real difference you waiting. Definitely no downside as long as you are sanding it well before the 2nd round of clear.
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Would sanding in a couple of days then getting it in the sun for a day or so help make sure the solvents are completely evacuated?
 
Let me get this question someone's bound to ask out of the way.......

"why are you flowcoating interior panels you anal retentive twit".

"Nothing better to do with your life"

"Get a life man"

The answers to those replies are simple. Getting practice on these smaller pieces before testing my luck on a full size canvas, my car :)
 
MJM said:
Let me get this question someone's bound to ask out of the way.......

"why are you flowcoating interior panels you anal retentive twit".

"Nothing better to do with your life"

"Get a life man"

The answers to those replies are simple. Getting practice on these smaller pieces before testing my luck on a full size canvas, my car :)
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I used a different word than "twit". Your project, make it yours!
 
I would take note on how these interior pieces go back together. Are they a tight fit? Could be alot of material on pieces that go back together a certain way.

3 coats, sand, and then.1 coat. It's going to slick out as soon as it hits the part...is fun
 
RosharonRooster said:
I would take note on how these interior pieces go back together. Are they a tight fit? Could be alot of material on pieces that go back together a certain way.

3 coats, sand, and then.1 coat. It's going to slick out as soon as it hits the part...is fun
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Good eye, you're correct. Some of those pieces slip over each other, so I can NOW see it would be a mistake going 3 and 3.

3 and 1 it will be.
Thank you,

Sealer completed a little while ago. Not the best pictures but, it laid down nicely reduced 25%. Hitting the exposed metal first worked out well.

20240926_174809.jpg

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Chevynutz said:
Looks nice, did you use the FLG 5 . If so what was the gun settings ?
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I used my Iwata Impact Jr. With a 1.2 needle and nozzle 2-1/2 out from closed on fluid, all the way out with a 1/4 turn closed on fan, 16psi with the trigger pulled.

If I was using an FLG-5, I would start with 2-1/2 turns out from fully closed on the fluid, and an 1/8 to 1/4 turn closed from fully opened on the fan. 14 to 16 psi with trigger pulled for epoxy sealer and base. Clear I would bump up the pressure with triggered pulled to 28-30psi.
 
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MJM said:
I make myself look like an ass.
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MJM said:
Excellent.......I'll have to go read the Perfect Paint Job information again. It probably says exactly what you recommended.

This won't be the first time, nore the last, I make myself look like an ass.

Actually, I'm pretty good at it.

Thanks for the help.
Click to expand...
I hadn't noticed,,,sorry couldn't pass this over!
 
AAE said:
Is that about the size of a minijet?
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It's not as small as a mini gun. It's like right in the middle of a full size gun and a mini gun. Fits in my large hand well, where a mini gun is uncomfortable for me to hold.

It works very well for what I'm spraying right now, small interior pieces. It would also work well spraying a bumper.
I'll be spraying clear with it tomorrow, changing out the
1.2 needle, nozzle and air cap used to spray base today with a 1.3 needle nozzle and air cap.

It's s neat mid size gun. No seals to worry about, everything is machine fit. It also helps that I'm getting better setting up a gun, and my spraying technic is improving.

Looking forward to tomorrow...... A kid in a candy store :)
 
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