Dried Epoxy Flakes in Base Coat (Rookie Mistake)

cmfisher4

cmfisher4

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Here's a good one: First time laying down base coat (SPI medium red). The stuff is really easy to paint and I'm more than happy with my results. However, I had a specific problem, due to a rookie mistake, that may have screwed me and I'm looking for some direction (or reassurance).

I masked off the boot area with plastic because I had already shot it in Raptor Liner and then, on Thursday (8/22), I layed down my reduced epoxy sealer coat. I came back today (8/24) to shoot my base coat and when I got near the boot, the epoxy that had dried on the plastic started to flake off due to the air pressure from the gun and some settled on my now-wet base coat. I really didn't know what to do, so I finished up my first coat (I had started at the front, so I was nearly done). The flakes were about the size of a pencil eraser and there were a dozen or so of them. Not cool.

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After letting the paint set up for about 30 minutes, I took 1000-grit sandpaper to these areas as well as a grey scuff pad and sanded the epoxy flakes away, but not all the way down to the actual sealing epoxy. I shot my second coat.

I don't have a picture of the results, but the outlines of the epoxy flakes are obvious in the second coat. I also had some trash and one pretty good run after the second coat, so I decided to stop there for the day and regroup, hopefully to come back tomorrow, fix the problems, and put down two more coats (per the tech manual).

Do you think that the outline of the epoxy flakes are showing up because it just needs more paint to cover it, or do you think I'm screwed? I could not see the outlines after I sanded, so maybe there is some chemical reaction thing going on? This is my very first paint job and, frankly, I'd rather cover it as good as I can and live with it than take the base all back off and start over on this panel. While I would love it to be perfect, I'm a realist and only ever hoped for something better than a 20-foot paint job.

Thanks so much,
Chris

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Here's a shot just to show you. The color is awesome!
 
What type of plastic did you use? Automotive refinish grade or something else? Refinish grade plastic is corona coated so it should not have flaked like that. First thing plan to remask the car before you spray anymore color. If you don't you run the risk of additional flaking getting into what you are spraying.
As for what to do. What I would try first is using some 800-1200 grit paper wet and gently and carefully sand the affected areas, trying as best as you can to sand evenly and not concentrate on any one spot. Use a fairly stiff hand block,

(I'd use this one or something similar https://www.google.com/search?q=AF4405&ie=utf-8&oe=utf-8&client=firefox-b-1)

Just try to sand the area evenly. Dry it often and check your progress. Once the epoxy disappears/blends in the surronding area, you are done. Re-mask as I said above (necessary, not an option) clean everything (check with Barry about what to clean the base with) and spray 2-3 more coats. It should work out ok.

Keep asking questions if you have them.:)
 
Thanks, Chris. I have that block, so that's what I will use. I bought what I thought was car plastic (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B06XDLLYK5/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1 ), but it was from Amazon, obviously, so there's another lesson learned. I covered the plastic with green paper before my second coat, so tomorrow I'll rip it all off and re-mask it all with the paper (got lots of that).
I've asked about cleaning the base and I've read (and Barry has agreed) to using the solvent based W&G remover, which I have. I have a few spots that will be covered with vinyl that I painted that I can test that on to be sure.
Like I said, I'm not going to be totally destroyed if this doesn't work out, but it would be better, of course.
Thanks, Chris, I've read and tried to follow a lot of your (and others, of course) recommendations on this forum. Regardless if it works, I appreciate your help.

Chris
 
I'll add i used hardware store 2mil 9x12 tarps but they're a one & done masking meaning, you don't base & come back a day later & clear or what happened will happen every time.
Do as Chris suggested, i would. It'll work plenty good. You're gonna have much better then 20' finish. Put all the clear on you can, don't mind how it looks cause thick clear will give you ability to finess it when blocking it before buff.
It's gonna blow your friends minds when done.
 
I agree. Chris's advice is spot on. I will add, if you have automotive plastic, it will say on it "paint this side." The paint will adhere to that side only. It is very economical and worth the expense.

John
 
Well, it's better, but I wasn't able to fix it completely. In a few spots I took it all the way down to the epoxy sealer. I cleaned it up as best I could, but you can still see a couple of the spots. I'm cool with it.

I'm going to clear on Wednesday, I think (I understand that as long as the car doesn't come out of the booth, just tack and clear is fine for just about forever), so maybe that will help hide some of it...or make it jump out at you! :p
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After 1000-grit. You can see where I went through in the top middle.

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After two more coats. I didn't want to get too close since it was still a bit wet. I was surprised how glossy the paint is without the clear.

Thanks, everyone!
- Chris
 
I know you're the one that has to do the extra work, but does anyone here think soft blocking his base with 1500? would yield worthy results? I suppose 3 clear coats, bock, shoot 3 more would take care of it. See, i know how much shine's in its future : )
 
Hey i wish you luck tomorrow, if clear has 5x more texture then pictures shown, it doesn't matter.
It'll smooth right out, runs & all. Just take your time wetsanding clear, it'll look like glass.
Put enough on so you can go to town with all sanding grits.
 
Change in plans, Eddie, I actually just got done. Those spots appear to have faded away...Yipee!! Lots of trash, though, but that's my own fault for not taking more care in constructing my booth. I did 4 coats and I wasn't shy about putting it down, so that should be enough based on my practice fender.
I'm really happy with it. Quite frankly, if I didn't have trash to worry about, I may not even wanted to cut and buff it.

Thanks for the encouragement and well-wishes! It was still a little cloudy in the booth, and it's small, so it's hard to get good pics, but I'll be putting it on the chassis this weekend and hopefully getting it out in the sun (that'll be the true test, obviously!).
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Driver's side rear wing

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The bulkhead (or firewall).

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Up the driver's side.
 
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