Dodge Truck Hood

jcclark

jcclark

Oldtimer
Finally got to try the Euro Clear out on this hail damaged hood.
I think I'm switching from the Universal to it .
I used some "G2" poly primer after filling w/ spot putty
then SPI Epoxy over that.

IMG_H2070.jpg


more Pic's
http://s51.photobucket.com/albums/f386/jcquack/BODY AND PAINT/02 Dodge Ram truck/
 
Well, that it's cheaper, (LOL)
and I think it's a little harder clear which would be better for the
darker colors when it comes to buffing and polishing.
Easier to get the swirls out with the harder ones.
I still think the Universal flows better but I need to get use to
the Euro before stating that.
 
Looks really nice. A few questions from a noob. Does the spot putty you use set up in about a minute? I have some 3M platinum stuff that sets up so fast, it's crazy. Wasn't sure if I was doing it right.

Why the Euro clear and not UV?

What's the G2 primer?

What kind of base, pro spray, ppg etc?

It's very nice looking and enjoyed the photobucket album. Thanks for sharing it.
 
Wow, a lot of questions, I'm no expert but
I have a lot of opinions (LOL)
I do a lot of "small" collision work as a "hobby"
Usually only a panel or two, no overalls.
I have done a car a week for the past 10 weeks,
costs are a concerne. So the Euro looks really good.
I get 2 gallons of sprayable clear from a 1 gallon kit when
I reduce it 4:1:3, which works good for me. So it's very cost effective.
I still like the Universal too and highly recommend it.
I also like that the Universal has a "very slow" activator.
I try to stay with just one clear so I can keep my inventory low
and fresh.

The G2 is a polyester primer by Evercoat. Poly primers are basically
a sprayable body filler that give a very high build and they have less shrinkage
problems than a 2K. Really neat stuff, you need a big tip to spray them.

I use 2 different non brand basecoats, "Metalux" & "Genstar"
My supplier carries both and I pick by which one has the best color matching chip.
I get great matches with them.
They're both less than half the cost of a name brand like DuPont,
which I used to use but has gotten to expensive for me.

The spot putties can set up really fast in hot weather, you can adjust it by the
amount of hardener you use. I usually get less than 3 minutes before it sets.
I keep mine inside the house where it stays cool, that gives me more mixing time.
Once on the warm panel it goes pretty quick.
Thanks!
 
WOW,

Excellent detailed response. Very helpful! Looks like you're doing very clean work. I think the G2 especially sounds interesting as I have a few feathered areas that I'm trying to get the Epoxy to fill. Kind of pushing it for more filling properties when it's likely not intended to do that.

I have a 1.8 tip gun so sounds like I'd have a chance shooting the G2?

Thanks for taking time to answer my many questions. Haven't painted for 20 years and am really enjoying relearning it all.
 
A 1.8 would be the smallest I would recommend for G2.
Please remember the polyester primers use a hardener and you only have about 20 minutes to get it sprayed and get the gun rinsed out before it kicks. I like to have my solvent ready and waiting to rinse the gun as soon as its empty.

By the way, Great job on that truck repair JC.
 
What's your thoughts of the metalux?

I found with the euro that when I first started using it I liked it thinner, I gradually thickened it up and settled on 4:1:1, although not quite as cheap at that point.
 
Chad.S;22899 said:
What's your thoughts of the metalux?
Click to expand...

I like it, I get good matches when I compare to the paint chips
they have for the alternates within a given paint code.
Most times, my paint turns out exactly like the chip.
Some colors have a bunch of alternates and some of them can be
quite similar so it's hard to choose.
I always compare them to the car out in the sun to pick.
The last time I bought DuPont Chromabase, it was 3 times the price
of the Metalux. And DuPont doesn't cover as well or gives me
the chips to choose from. I'll stick with the Metalux, even if it
wasn't cheaper. It covers better and matches better.
 
Chad.S;22899 said:
I found with the euro that when I first started using it I liked it thinner, I gradually thickened it up and settled on 4:1:1, although not quite as cheap at that point.
Click to expand...

I've been experimenting with the ratios and I think I'm going to
"reduce the reducer" (LOL) I have a bumper to paint tomorrow and
I think I'll try 4:1:2 and see.
That extra reducer has been hard to keep from running.
I'm starting to think it's to much.
I may end up to where I'm like you 4:1:1, We''ll see.
 
crashtech;22889 said:
Euro at 4:1:3? Two coats, or ???
Click to expand...
I usually do 3, but on that hood, I did 5.
That's probably to much but I knew I was going to sand it with 400
and had time to let it age before final buffing.
I think now that 4 would have been enough, but I had no sand throughs (LOL)
 
Spayed lots of gallons of Euro, and ended up with 4:1:1.5. It seems to have similar viscosity to other SPI clears at that mix.

But I have actually wanted to experiment with more reduction and more coats for certain things that have reverse curves, in an attempt to reduce urethane wave.
 
Jim, what did you thing of the G2? black, grey, or nuetral?
 
I liked it, I used the gray.
I think 2K sands easier and I'll probably use it most times but
the G2 is pretty neat stuff.

BTW: I just finished painting a bumper with the Euro and I tried a different
reduction, I mixed it 4:1:2 and it did better for me.
I think less reducer made it easier to control.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top