looking for tips, I am not new to a buffer but I am far from a expert.
So for polishing tools I have
B&D ELU rotary for my 6” pads
Flex pe8 rotary for my 4”, 3”, & 2” pads
Porter Cable DA for 6”, 4” & 3” pads
2” air operated DA for 2” pads
Chemical guys products
V32, V34, V36, V38 compounds and polish
6” orange, white & black foam hex pads
6” orange/black & black microfiber pads
4” orange/black & black microfiber pads
3” combo kit yellow and black foam pads along with 2 wool pads
Pad cleaner
Pad conditioner
Chinese made 2” foam pads of various densities
I have a decent amount of experience using 3m’s perfect compound and polish with various foam pads
From what I read the way I did it will not work with the chemical guys polishes.
I always used a healthy amount of compound or polish, started slow working it in then moved to up to about 1500rpms and polished the panel until it was clean of polish.
This was done on a 2000 wet sanded surface.
On this paint job I have sanded with eagle abrasives 1000, Tolex (1500), green buflex (2000), black buflex (3000)
I started compounding the roof with V32, tried the 6” orange/black microfiber on the rotary at 1000 rpms and it did ok, then I tried the microfiber pad the the porter cable like ChemGuys suggest and even cranked up it was worse by far.
So I switched to the orange foam pad and it did much better, had a few stuburn pigtails but I was able to work them out, but probably should have sanded them out first.
I would like for someone to clarify for me what is considered dry when compounding and polishing.
The pad conditioner seams to keep the surface wet for awhile, do you just keep using the pad conditioner instead of more polish to keep the surface wet?
I like to get the surface pretty close to dry so you can actually start seeing the imperfections, with to much of a haze I feel like I am buffing blind. But I don’t let the pad get grabby I know that’s to dry for sure but I do notice when the film starts getting thing it does seam to build heat faster.
As for the surface finish at each compounding and polishing steps how good should each step look before moving to the next step?
Thanks
Dave
So for polishing tools I have
B&D ELU rotary for my 6” pads
Flex pe8 rotary for my 4”, 3”, & 2” pads
Porter Cable DA for 6”, 4” & 3” pads
2” air operated DA for 2” pads
Chemical guys products
V32, V34, V36, V38 compounds and polish
6” orange, white & black foam hex pads
6” orange/black & black microfiber pads
4” orange/black & black microfiber pads
3” combo kit yellow and black foam pads along with 2 wool pads
Pad cleaner
Pad conditioner
Chinese made 2” foam pads of various densities
I have a decent amount of experience using 3m’s perfect compound and polish with various foam pads
From what I read the way I did it will not work with the chemical guys polishes.
I always used a healthy amount of compound or polish, started slow working it in then moved to up to about 1500rpms and polished the panel until it was clean of polish.
This was done on a 2000 wet sanded surface.
On this paint job I have sanded with eagle abrasives 1000, Tolex (1500), green buflex (2000), black buflex (3000)
I started compounding the roof with V32, tried the 6” orange/black microfiber on the rotary at 1000 rpms and it did ok, then I tried the microfiber pad the the porter cable like ChemGuys suggest and even cranked up it was worse by far.
So I switched to the orange foam pad and it did much better, had a few stuburn pigtails but I was able to work them out, but probably should have sanded them out first.
I would like for someone to clarify for me what is considered dry when compounding and polishing.
The pad conditioner seams to keep the surface wet for awhile, do you just keep using the pad conditioner instead of more polish to keep the surface wet?
I like to get the surface pretty close to dry so you can actually start seeing the imperfections, with to much of a haze I feel like I am buffing blind. But I don’t let the pad get grabby I know that’s to dry for sure but I do notice when the film starts getting thing it does seam to build heat faster.
As for the surface finish at each compounding and polishing steps how good should each step look before moving to the next step?
Thanks
Dave