Clearcoating headlight lenses

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Djhumvee

New Member
So headlight lenses are polycarbonate, which doesn't require adpro, but the recommendation is to spray epoxy for best adhesion from what I've been told and read in the past. So what about when dealing with a headlight restoration where I sand the lenses with 1000 grit and clear coat?
 
Djhumvee said:
So headlight lenses are polycarbonate, which doesn't require adpro, but the recommendation is to spray epoxy for best adhesion from what I've been told and read in the past. So what about when dealing with a headlight restoration where I sand the lenses with 1000 grit and clear coat?
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1000 is too fine. 800 max. 600 would be better. SPI universal will fill 320 scratches. Most clears will fill 400 grit scratches. I've done a few rough ones by going over them with the DA and 320, then 600 wet by hand then clear. No issues.
 
Chris_Hamilton said:
1000 is too fine. 800 max. 600 would be better. SPI universal will fill 320 scratches. Most clears will fill 400 grit scratches. I've done a few rough ones by going over them with the DA and 320, then 600 wet by hand then clear. No issues.
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That's exactly what I just ended up doing, after reading on the other thread that 800 would be the max, I didn't have any 800 so I DA'd with 320 and wet sanded 600 then straight to clear..
 
I don't participate in these threads because my experiences and processes don't match the commonly given advice. But one thing I don't see talked about a lot is to make sure that the OEM coating is completely removed. Usually on a degraded headlamp the coating will be gone on the upper areas but still may be present in the less faded areas. It needs to come off because it's solvent resistant and will not be as transparent as the rest of the lamps when completed. This usually must be done with a fairly coarse grit like 320.

Also, I have the best luck with slow clears. Fast materials that are high in acetone can result in a less transparent, somewhat milky result. Most people don't notice, but fast clears and reducers are best avoided if possible. Some plastic blends seem more susceptible to this than others.
 
crashtech said:
I don't participate in these threads because my experiences and processes don't match the commonly given advice. But one thing I don't see talked about a lot is to make sure that the OEM coating is completely removed. Usually on a degraded headlamp the coating will be gone on the upper areas but still may be present in the less faded areas. It needs to come off because it's solvent resistant and will not be as transparent as the rest of the lamps when completed. This usually must be done with a fairly coarse grit like 320.

Also, I have the best luck with slow clears. Fast materials that are high in acetone can result in a less transparent, somewhat milky result. Most people don't notice, but fast clears and reducers are best avoided if possible. Some plastic blends seem more susceptible to this than others.
Click to expand...
I can agree on that.. I did a set one time and I had lifting wherever the oem coating was sanded through..
 
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