Clausens Rust defender and blocking

A

aviator8

Promoted Users
I laid down two wet coats of rust defender on my larger panels and fenders. I started blocking off my round stuff while I wait for my new sanding blocks. I have done two fenders with no depressions left. My question is if you have more poly on and have not gone to the underlying epoxy do you stop once it is blocked like this or keep going untill you start getting breakthrough to epoxy so that you don't have so many mils of product build? Here are a few pics. You can see where the shades change based on thickness build, but I could keep taking more off.

Once I'm all blocked I'm not real clear on where to go before base

refine my blocked 180 to which higher grit, or leave it at 180?
then
full strength epoxy over everything then 10% reduced epoxy over that? would I sand between those coats?
or
reduced epoxy sealer directly over the poly?
 

Attachments

  • IMG_2138.jpg
    IMG_2138.jpg
    63.7 KB · Views: 87
  • IMG_2139.jpg
    IMG_2139.jpg
    69.5 KB · Views: 89
I just used AllUNeed( same as rust defender) for the first time. Looks like you are pretty thin on the poly now which is fine. I would sand with 400 for a solid base color and got to 600 for a metallic. If you think you might cut through to metal, you can spray another coat of RD or 2 of epoxy unreduced then sand to 400/600. After sanded to the final grit, I would prep for basecoat (blow off dust, wipe down, tack off), then spray a reduced coat of epoxy followed by base.
Reduced epoxy before base.
IMG_20230326_161421434.jpg

Base and Euro.
IMG_20230328_080909847.jpg
 
aviator8 said:
I laid down two wet coats of rust defender on my larger panels and fenders. I started blocking off my round stuff while I wait for my new sanding blocks. I have done two fenders with no depressions left. My question is if you have more poly on and have not gone to the underlying epoxy do you stop once it is blocked like this or keep going untill you start getting breakthrough to epoxy so that you don't have so many mils of product build? Here are a few pics. You can see where the shades change based on thickness build, but I could keep taking more off.

Once I'm all blocked I'm not real clear on where to go before base

refine my blocked 180 to which higher grit, or leave it at 180?
then
full strength epoxy over everything then 10% reduced epoxy over that? would I sand between those coats?
or
reduced epoxy sealer directly over the poly?
Click to expand...
Looking at the pics it looks sanded enough, which is a good thing. If it's in 180, I like to then shoot 2 coats of epoxy (sometimes 3 depending on how thin my first coat is) then you could sand dry 320 then wet 600 (if it's a metallic). Or if it's a solid, sand it with 400 wet and you will be ready for sealer.
 
Thanks guys. One more question. When I finish all my panels if I have a low, is would you use a glazing compound or something else to address. Ideally I would spray a bit of Clausens, but I used it all and I don't think you ever want to put filler over poly.

I have some of this on hand. I also have SPI 2k high build

 
Bump, sure enought I have a spot a bit low and I need to build. Can I use the product I linked above?
 
Last edited:
yes you can. while i have never used that specific one, it should just be a polyester glaze which is compatible with poly primer.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top