Clausen Rust Defender Over SPI Epoxy & Seam Sealer Advice Requested

S

Shifty

New Member
I'm doing a pretty significant restoration on an older Toyota pickup. The body and paint work is being done by a relative who does this work for a living, I am helping. He has used plenty of Evercoats polyester products, but we though we would give this Clausen product a shot to see if the sanding is easier and shrinkage is less than the competitors.

The cab was taken to bare metal by hand (no rust found), all seam sealer removed and protected with SPI Black Epoxy. The minor dings were pulled out and filler applied and feathered, scuffed, then two final coats of epoxy.

The next step is to apply Clausen's Run Defender high build polyester primer, block sand, sealer, PPG Envirobase basecoat then finishing with SPI's Universal clear.

Any issue with the above mentioned polyester primer over the epoxy. I am outside the epoxy's re-coat window and was told by the Clausen tech that I should hit the epoxy with 180 before applying the polyester primer, wash with soap, rinse and dry in the sun before shooting the product. The tech support guy was a little confused why epoxy was used over the bare metal instead of applying the polyester directly to the metal so that had me worried a bit.

My second concern is the 3M heavy bodied two part seam sealer I will be using. There are only a few areas where seam sealer will be visible on the exterior but I want to make sure I put it on at the right stage in this process. I am unsure if I should apply it over the epoxy or after the polyester primer has been sprayed. Seems like over the epoxy would be best prior to the polyester but I wonder if it might cause the polyester to crack eventually. Being 2-part, I don't expect it will shrink and will remain stable but it had me wondering.

Any advice is welcome,

Thanks
 
Slofut said:
Why not use SPI Turbo Hi Build? Just the name "rust defender" makes me apprehensive...
Click to expand...
The rust defender from Clausen is probably still a favorite as far as poly primers go, I haven't used it in a long time though, as it tends to make me sneeze as if I am having allergies from it.
 
Thanks for the feedback. Switching to anything else is not likely as I've bought everything already except the clear.

I agree the "rust defender" name makes me suspicious but there is some pretty good feedback on it on the interwebs.

Anymore thoughs on the seam sealer? I hear it doesn't sand well so I would think being under the polyester would hide any potential unsightly tooling marks. I have practiced with it a bit and have pretty good results by taping off and knocking down with a spreader. I'm probably worrying too much.
 

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QUOTE="Shifty, post: 96997, member: 5404"]
Thanks for the feedback. Switching to anything else is not likely as I've bought everything already except the clear.

I agree the "rust defender" name makes me suspicious but there is some pretty good feedback on it on the interwebs.

Anymore thoughs on the seam sealer? I hear it doesn't sand well so I would think being under the polyester would hide any potential unsightly tooling marks. I have practiced with it a bit and have pretty good results by taping off and knocking down with a spreader. I'm probably worrying too much.
[/QUOTE]
I have been using rust defender for several years. I like how it sands and it shrinks less than urethane. I always apply it over SPI epoxy. My last round of primer is SPI turbo.

I would not put poly primer over seam sealer. I usually apply seam sealer just before reduced epoxy sealer fwiw.

Don
 
I would not put poly primer over seam sealer. I usually apply seam sealer just before reduced epoxy sealer fwiw.

Don


I agree!
 
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