I agree with Jim, in frame rails unless they're short subframes and you can flip them around thoroughly clean them out, I wouldn't want to flood them with water. Mineral spirits maybe, a roto rooter type brush and air (still won't get corners and bends) and flood them with sheep dip (Fluid Film, I call it that because it contains lanolin). But I've seen lots of dipped and blasted cars with rusty seams and lap joints. For the subframes I'd blast the outside, thoroughly clean the sand out of the inside (without water) epoxy the outside and then coat the inside with sheep dip. Or buy new if they're really rusty. Only my 2 cents worth...
reallylongnickname
Promoted Users
On the subject of acid dip, how about if a body panel is left in a vat of molasses, does it still need to be neutralized? I know in most cases you power wash it straight out of the vat, but I'm curious. The predominate non-volatile acid is, aconitic acid (0.8%)
Chris_Hamilton
Trying to be the best me, I can be
How would you get it out of all the crevices and cavities? The issue with any dipping is that there are areas where the solution remains and then it leeches out later. Think inside of a rocker panel, fram or unibody rail etc. Molasses would be even worse trying to get that sludge out from places.
reallylongnickname
Promoted Users
Oops, I meant a solution of 9:1 water to molasses and or vinegar. Think, cow trough as a vat. Takes 2 to 3 weeks and then power wash it off. The results are very nice. Clean panels like off the assembly line.
I've seen it done with another technique of smearing it on and covering area with thin plastic wrap like saran-wrap. Afterwards, the molasses is removed with steam cleaner.
I've seen it done with another technique of smearing it on and covering area with thin plastic wrap like saran-wrap. Afterwards, the molasses is removed with steam cleaner.
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