Its true that I spent too much time on a vintage mustang, but once I got started I couldn't stop.
This was a bubble on the drivers door, but its a clean California car, and this rust is due to clogged drain holes.
After the door was stripped of all the paint and lots of bondo, the problem was clear. Someone welded a patch in and didn't grind down the welds, but it didn't take much grinding to see that they had just welded a patch on top of the rusty metal. That rusty piece in there is the original door skin.
After cutting all the rust out of the door skin, it looked like the rust might be serious all the way across the bottom of the door.
I was able to drill all the spot welds (2)
holding the bottom 4" of the door skin, then cut across it and that 4" section slipped off without much effort. The patch was cut and fitted before cutting the section off.
After removing the bottom 4" of the door skin, this is what I found. Makes me wonder how bad it was before the door was Electrolysis cleaned, but this is a very confined area.
At the back of the door it is just as bad, notice the courtesy light opening that is located at the back of the door.
There was rust down in the flange, but its not too bad.
I made a trough for the door to soak in, lined it with plastic and used linolium to protect the plastic, then filled it with Rust911 rust remover. Its not acid, but I haven't tested paint on it yet. Blasting wouldn't have cleaned down behind the flange, and I didn't want to open it up. One rust pit is shown that was filled with silicone bronze.
The 911 rust remover got in all the tight spots that couldn't have been blasted.
I wanted the lower section off the door to weld the patch in.
@crashtech says that we shouldn't put too much material under our paint jobs, so I'm trying.
If you hit the square at the lower right corner, you'll get a bigger view.
My long time good friend volunteered to do the wiping.
This was a bubble on the drivers door, but its a clean California car, and this rust is due to clogged drain holes.
After the door was stripped of all the paint and lots of bondo, the problem was clear. Someone welded a patch in and didn't grind down the welds, but it didn't take much grinding to see that they had just welded a patch on top of the rusty metal. That rusty piece in there is the original door skin.
After cutting all the rust out of the door skin, it looked like the rust might be serious all the way across the bottom of the door.
I was able to drill all the spot welds (2)
After removing the bottom 4" of the door skin, this is what I found. Makes me wonder how bad it was before the door was Electrolysis cleaned, but this is a very confined area.
At the back of the door it is just as bad, notice the courtesy light opening that is located at the back of the door.
I made a trough for the door to soak in, lined it with plastic and used linolium to protect the plastic, then filled it with Rust911 rust remover. Its not acid, but I haven't tested paint on it yet. Blasting wouldn't have cleaned down behind the flange, and I didn't want to open it up. One rust pit is shown that was filled with silicone bronze.
The 911 rust remover got in all the tight spots that couldn't have been blasted.
I wanted the lower section off the door to weld the patch in.
@crashtech says that we shouldn't put too much material under our paint jobs, so I'm trying.
If you hit the square at the lower right corner, you'll get a bigger view.
My long time good friend volunteered to do the wiping.
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