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I think I missed the part where something happened to the body side of the tailgate jamb?

I'm not sure it's working as intended, look at 0:32 in the Eastwood video and it appears that large amounts of distortion are already occurring.

Fiberglass never quite stops moving, but the older it gets, the more stable it is. It's probably a good idea to let the completed bodywork sit in the sun for a good while before final blocking and paint, though the OP does not state what stage this 'Vette is at.

That's without sanding, with sanding you get 7 days, though sooner is better imo.

Yes you can.

Okay, I was just trying to make sure we were talking about the same product. As far as I know, the Tech Manual doesn't specifically say you have to put any more or different primer on top of SPI epoxy as long as you are inside the recoat window. So you can do your job the way you want to.

Can you tell us the section of the Tech Manual that is concerning you?

Ka-Ching Ka-Ching!!!

I don't think so, when it happens it has all the classic signs of solvent pop, just very tiny and appearing well after the last coat, typically only on horizontal surfaces and/or where I'm a little bit heavy-handed. it always buffs right out. I think I might have a little moisture in my air even...

I've been fighting that with Euro for a while now.

I would love to have Parkerizing or the look of Parkerizing but have it be more durable, like on bolts just tightening them down creates worn-off spots that will rust.

It's pretty typical for the outer "skin" of many materials to be somewhat gummy, this includes most fillers and many primers as well.

Heat certainly alters the behavior of epoxy at my shop. Whether this counts as curing may be a technicality above my paygrade. For example, at 65F it takes 48 hours for it to be sandable, but at 90F it can be sanded after 8-12 hours.

As long as there is enough epoxy over the filler such that it blocks out smoothly, no more primer steps are necessary before sealer. But, filler work has to be pretty straight to get blocked out with one round of epoxy.

Hoo boy did I ever get off track on this one.

No, just did a little Internet search.

I would try it for $90/case but I do not see it for that price anywhere...

I'd save the entire hulk if possible, then if the floors are actually needed, someone could grab ahold of the rockers or whatever and yank it out until it was straighter, then salvage the floor. I always like to pull on something sacrificial because it's really hard to pull on something you are...

I have used Sprayway on sanded base as well. If it leaves any residue (which I don't think it does) it's paint safe afaict.

I think this is probably something that deserves its own thread. If you have buckling, it seems pretty likely that you have structural issues that will need to be addressed so that panels fit right, etc.